Transfer Case Skipping? 09 Tahoe LTZ

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PatDTN

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When I accelerate I get a feeling like the chain on my bicycle skipping. Can the transfer case be bad?
 

lawfarm

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I believe the chain is only used to drive the vehicle in 4WD. If you're in 2WD, the chain would not be under any load. I've only experienced issues with transfer case skip on 4wd vehicles when they are full time 4wd (e.g. Jeep Quadratrac) or when actually in 4wd under load.
 

sprinter

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When I accelerate I get a feeling like the chain on my bicycle skipping. Can the transfer case be bad?
I actually experienced something similar with my 08 Tahoe (4x4) but never found out what the problem was. It felt like an intermittent skip. It was more pronounced right after the truck was started and put into drive, especially with a slightly faster acceleration. If you eased back on the accelerator a bit and started slowly it would work it's way out and the truck would run fine again.
 
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PatDTN

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I believe the chain is only used to drive the vehicle in 4WD. If you're in 2WD, the chain would not be under any load. I've only experienced issues with transfer case skip on 4wd vehicles when they are full time 4wd (e.g. Jeep Quadratrac) or when actually in 4wd under load.

I used the bicycle chain analogy because it describes what I'm feeling most. I turned the dial to 2wd for a while and still had the jolting. It's back in auto now. It still does it. Next reply more details.
 
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PatDTN

PatDTN

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I actually experienced something similar with my 08 Tahoe (4x4) but never found out what the problem was. It felt like an intermittent skip. It was more pronounced right after the truck was started and put into drive, especially with a slightly faster acceleration. If you eased back on the accelerator a bit and started slowly it would work it's way out and the truck would run fine again.

This is a little of what I get. It definitely is more pronounced the harder I hit the gas. It does it at any speed and if I try to gun it at highway speeds it feels a lot like a heavy vibration.

Mine is actually more pronounced as things warm up. Starting out cold and taking it a bit easy I only notice it some. Coming home in 95 degree road temps and hitting it to get onto the highway it feels like I'm gonna bust something.

Could this be electronic with something undecided on shifting?

It would have to be in the transfer case though. Going from 2x4 to 4x4 and back shouldn't cause all this ruckus. I have only had this Tahoe since July 4, 2016 so I'm finding things out. I need to put it in 4 wheel low and see if it actually goes into low range.

My first thought was rear diff skipping gears but knowing how a differential works makes that seem a lot less likely. I do have a leaking seal on the end of the right rear axle. It keeps my parking brake well lubed. :-/ I don't know if there's enough oil in that diff.

Thanks for the help guys. This forum has been very useful. And of course it's the people that make it a forum.
 

sprinter

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Pat, check your front differential. Are your seals leaking there at all? There are 3... 2 axle shafts and 1 pinion. Those seals are notorious for going bad. When that happens the fluid leaks out and the differential runs dry. Either way check that fluid level first. Obviously, the same logic applies to the rear differential especially if you have a known leaking seal. Check the fluid level first. No fluid = problems. Plus you should do it right away before damaging the bearings. Damaged bearings = big $$$
 
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PatDTN

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Dry would be bad but can it cause this? Reading about issues with GM transfer cases. Which one do I have with an '09 LTZ and 5.3 FlexFuel?

I've seen that there are issues with the selector motor but haven't chased what the symptoms are yet.
 

02Lightning

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Are you sure this isn't just a miss, like a bad plug or wire
 

sprinter

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It sounds like Pat is describing a transfer case or differential issue, but 02Lightning is right to try to eliminate a motor problem first. If you are new to mechanics then it can be difficult to identify where the problem/noise is really coming from. If you are sure it’s coming from the transfer case or front differential, I would definitely check that actuator. They have been known to not fully engage, usually due to dirt. But you would get errors on you driver information centre and errors in the 4x4 mode. Is that the case with your truck? Does it shift between 2x and 4x low and high properly?
 
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PatDTN

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This is way too violent to be a miss. I've had plenty of those over the years.

As far as narrowing it down to front or rear diff of transfer case I'm not sure. On the one hand I've never experienced anything like this in a vehicle and can't imagine a scenario where a normal diff could do this. Is this a normal diff? I don't even know that for sure.

I used the analogy of a bicycle chain skipping because it reminds me of when my old 10 speed Schwinn would get between gears and skip if I stood up on the pedals to get up a hill. It's a momentary drop in pull followed by a bang of a small surge forward. Lather, rinse, repeat. Rapidly.

It's a very harsh feeling. I'm worried that I'm hammering something apart but I need to drive.

I'll try taking it out in the field next to me and see if it shifts into 4 wheel low. I worry that it could get stuck in 4 low and strand me at home.

Oh, and I appreciate all suggestions. You guys can't feel this so it's harder to guess.
 
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So the neighbors are sure I'm crazy but low range works. Hopefully it's back in normal mode now.

Maybe I'll luck out and having shifted into low range and back it'll be cured. I'll know that tomorrow.
 

02Lightning

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I think I would suspect the actuator on the transfer case not fully engaging, maybe change the fluid in the transfer case and see if you can find any metal.
 

sprinter

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So when in 4x low and you drive around a bit (I mean even 20 feet forward and back) do you notice the same type of condition as in regular 2x mode? Does it appear to be skipping? When you shift between modes, do you get any errors on the display or does a "service engine soon" come on? If your light is already on, check the codes for direction. Failing that, try to differentiate if it's coming from the back or front. It's important as it starts narrowing down your problem. But check both differentials for fluid. It's a relatively easy step and good preventative maintenance if all is well.
 
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Okay, some more information.

This morning I left home with the selector in auto. Just climbing out my driveway it thumped some.

I drove a couple of miles and it was the same problem. Then I twisted the selector over to 2wd and drove. Problem gone. I did some backroads driving at both ends of my trip and a bunch of interstate and no problem.

Almost home I twisted it back over to auto. The problem is there.

So. Is something making it think I have a rear wheel slipping and it's dialing in 4wd for me? Is there no hysteresis to keep it from jumping in and out? I know my right rear axle leaks oil. Can that cause a bad sensor reading? I had a BMW that would collect metal shavings on the wheel speed sensor and mess up. Anything like that on these?

I'm getting closer. At least now when I put it in 2wd it doesn't do it. Note that I tried that before and had the problem still. Shifting down to 4wd low and around seems to have changed things. I watched a YouTube video about changing a control box under the dash. Maybe mine is bad?

Thanks again for the thoughtful help on this.
 

Christoph559

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I think I would suspect the actuator on the transfer case not fully engaging, maybe change the fluid in the transfer case and see if you can find any metal.
This. I just changed my fluid yesterday bought two quarts from local gm shop 22$, make sure it has the correct fluid
 

Jason_S

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Depending on how much use your transfer case has seen, it is possible for the chain to "stretch" some and allow skipping. Changing the fluid wouldn't hurt, and would allow you to see how much, if any, metal is in the fluid. The correct fluid for your transfer case is a dealer only item and is a blue/turquoise color. On some transfer cases, you can also check you chain slack through the fill hole. I just do not remember off the top of my head if that is possible with this transfer case.

The rear seal is not a hard job and could be done in the drive way in an afternoon (probably 2 or 3 hr for the first time). No 'special' tools required. It is also a relatively inexpensive repair. The cost of changing the fluid in your rear differential plus the cost of a seal (~$10-15). The LTZ comes with the limited slip rear differential, but it does not require a friction modifier. I tend to just use a good GL-5 gear oil.

EDIT: if you find chunks or slivers of plastic in the transfer case fluid, that is from the chain guides.
 
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Haven't changed my fluid but did get some more data.

First I drove on a relatively smooth gravel road in auto mode. I think I can still feel the skipping. Unfortunately 4x4 also feels the same, maybe it's skipping maybe it's bumps.

I had another thought. If it's sensing wheel speeds and comparing front to rear to decide I may have caused this by rotating my tires. I bought this with nearly worn out Wranglers on the front and some other brand of newer tires on the rear. The Wranglers would tramline on spray painted lines in the road and are noisy. So I rotated my tires to get the newer tires on the front.

Given the wear plus the difference in brands I wonder if the rolling diameter is off enough to make it think the littler rears are spinning and it needs to shift into 4x4? I don't remember feeling this when I test drove it and I can't recall feeling it before I rotated. Thoughts? Obviously I could swap the tires back but I don't want to.
 
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I finally bought a full set of new Michelins and at least for the moment the problem is gone. I'm sticking with the theory of different diameter fron and rear tires making the transfer case keep shifting in and out of 4wd.
 
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The skipping feeling is definitely gone. I've been able to use my auto 4wd setting any time I want. I used it on I81 tonight running 75 to ..uh.. 90 with no problem. That was in heavy rain. Ive used it in the dry as well. I'm calling it a tire diameter problem.
 

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