Yukon 2000 - 200,000 Miles - BC, Canada - Second Set of Eyes

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

Hey guys, so I'm new here as I am possibly about to be in possession of a 2000 Yukon. I went to see it today and from what I gathered, there are a few things I've noticed about it which I need a second opinion on and need some experts such as the community here. It is a nice car from the outside, very nice looking and looks clean, but after taking a few videos and photos of the reports and what not, I'm getting a bit shaky about investing my time in this vehicle purchase. The asking price is $5995 (CAD)

1) It was a nice drive, I couldn't fault how it drove whatsoever, it was responsive, brakes were good. All in all drive ability, A+

2) In one of the videos below, before I started driving the vehicle and we switched the engine on, I noticed there was a slight leak under the car.

IMG_2555.MOV

drive.google.com

(Change to 1080p to see it)

3) The rust, now I am not aware of how bad rust is on Yukons for this age and where rust should and shouldn't be, but here's another video!

IMG_2556.MOV

drive.google.com

(Plus a bit more of the drip we mentiond)

4) The Inspection Report. So here in BC it does require safety inspections, but judging by this safety inspection report, it didn't pass certain things that I should be worried about(?). Do not know if thats because the standards for passing inspections is so high here in BC, so older cars with rust do not fit that quota.

5) The guy was hesitant for me to take it to get a pre purchase inspection but would not of minded for someone to come and look it, like a mobile PPI.

6) Carfax indicates regular maintenance, but it was in a collision in 2003 of which the front left side was worked on. But that was 20 years ago and has not had any indication of further problem. Here's the Carfax.

CARFAX Canada Vehicle History Reports.pdf

drive.google.com

I'm sorry about all this information, this is just my first vehicle and I want something reliable that's going to last me commuting to work and going on weekend trips camping here and there. I'm waiting for my other videos to process, once they are processed I'll link them.

Thank you, any feedback is appreciated.

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

Oh... and this is the exterior!

 

[swathdiver]

I did not see the leaking underneath. If it was on the right side in the back, that is the rear AC dripping which is normal. Lots of surface rust for a 23 year old Canadian car. Can you see rust holes in the frame or body or bumpers?

Understand that a 23 year old car is going to need regular repairs as things give up the ghost. It looks to be well cared for and in excellent condition however. Price seems right too. Bump this post in the morning when the fellas are having their coffee and you'll get more responses and opinions.

 

[drakon543]

i dont know if i didn't understand it or not but i dont see anything on that inspection report that says it failed anything. belts and tune up are common for any shop to try to toss onto a bill regardless if it needs it or not. if np is not pass it says np for a few things that should say n/a as it doesn't have a comvertible roof. actually most of everything on it should be n/a or just brought into question as there's no legitimate way to check some of that stuff. diaphragm.... what diaphragm didn't pass, there few of those in vehicles anymore and unless it didn't work at all most of them are designed to not be taken apart. if its not a total rust heap has maintenance records and your comfortable with the price go for it.

 

[MassHoe04]

From what little I saw in videos, the frame looked pretty good. I could not see if there were any holes in the sides of the frame, but the bottom actually looked pretty clean.

The inspection report made my head spin. I haven't finished my first cup of coffee yet and I couldn't make any sense of what they passed or didn't pass.

Have your guy look it over, but from the sounds of things and how it looks... Worth going the next step of having your guy check it closer.

Two years ago my 04 Z71 was $6,500 US. The COVID/supply chain issues made the market crazy! But what could I do? I needed transportation to work that same week my Jeep died. I couldn't afford $30k for new or even $10k for used. In New England, everything under $5k is literally ready for the junk yard. It is what it is... Mine has a ton of rust needing repair on the rocker panels, but I love it anyway! It had 185k miles when I got it and I am over 212k now. Overall, very reliable as my daily driver.

Good luck!

 

[Miami-Dade]

The guy was hesitant for me to take it to get a pre purchase inspection but would not of minded for someone to come and look it, like a mobile PPI.

Thank you, any feedback is appreciated.

This comment bothers me. Seems he has something to hide and figures the Mobile Mechanic will not catch it.

I am not a trusting person and always feel [especially] someone selling a vehicle is trying to get over on the buyer.

For that reason I vote not to get it.

If you can convince the owner to take it to your mechanic and he gives the green light then that is a different story.

BTW in all my years of buying used vehicles [from dealer or private owner] never had a issue with any of them taking the vehicle to my independent mechanic.

But that is just me.

Welcome from Miami Beach!

 

[MassHoe04]

I would be hesitant, too.

I wouldn't just hand over keys to my truck to any Joe Schmoe, who might be out boosting trucks or looking for a getaway vehicle to be used in a bank robbery...
I'm not even sure I would want to go with them. They might slit my throat and toss me in a ditch before riding off with my truck.

If the purchase and sale agreement was done with a cash or VENMO deposit; and I had a photo of their driver's license, then OK. Take it.

AT least with a few hundred bucks in my hand and me having the ability to ID you in a police report, I have some kind of assurance you will be returning with my truck.

But sorry, nobody would be taking it anywhere until I had verification and documentation of identity and some kind of security deposit in my hands.

 

[Fless]

When the current owner agreed, I have had him take it to a nearby shop of my choice for the inspection. I paid for the inspection and offered the results to the owner, whether I bought the car or not. That gave me a negotiating tool.

 

[MassHoe04]

When the current owner agreed, I have had him take it to a nearby shop of my choice for the inspection. I paid for the inspection and offered the results to the owner, whether I bought the car or not. That gave me a negotiating tool.

That would be an OK arrangement too.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

At the end of the day, purchasing a used vehicle is a bit of a risk, but for many of us, it is the only way to purchase a truck. I say do your due diligence like you are doing now in gaining as much information as possible about the truck. If you decide to purchase the vehicle, simultaneously start a new savings account for truck repairs, and put $300+ into it every month. I did this when I purchased my new-to-me 2007 Yukon XL Denali ($350 per month), and while I have used a lot of the money for repairs, I've maintained a positive balance in the account throughout.

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

i dont know if i didn't understand it or not but i dont see anything on that inspection report that says it failed anything. belts and tune up are common for any shop to try to toss onto a bill regardless if it needs it or not. if np is not pass it says np for a few things that should say n/a as it doesn't have a comvertible roof. actually most of everything on it should be n/a or just brought into question as there's no legitimate way to check some of that stuff. diaphragm.... what diaphragm didn't pass, there few of those in vehicles anymore and unless it didn't work at all most of them are designed to not be taken apart. if its not a total rust heap has maintenance records and your comfortable with the price go for it.

Thanks for the reply drakon543, yeah it confused me a bit too because the certain minor things I found wrong with it definitely were marked as pass... so strange. Yeah the maintenance seemed quite regular on the carfax! Think I'm gonna do it, fits what I need in every aspect.

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

At the end of the day, purchasing a used vehicle is a bit of a risk, but for many of us, it is the only way to purchase a truck. I say do your due diligence like you are doing now in gaining as much information as possible about the truck. If you decide to purchase the vehicle, simultaneously start a new savings account for truck repairs, and put $300+ into it every month. I did this when I purchased my new-to-me 2007 Yukon XL Denali ($350 per month), and while I have used a lot of the money for repairs, I've maintained a positive balance in the account throughout.

Perfect thank Joseph, I'll be sure to keep this in mind!

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

That would be an OK arrangement too.

It's actually a dealership so that makes me a little uneasy for the fact they don't want me taking it to a mechanic, considering they just let me take it for a test drive by myself no bother.

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

This comment bothers me. Seems he has something to hide and figures the Mobile Mechanic will not catch it.

I am not a trusting person and always feel [especially] someone selling a vehicle is trying to get over on the buyer.

For that reason I vote not to get it.

If you can convince the owner to take it to your mechanic and he gives the green light then that is a different story.

BTW in all my years of buying used vehicles [from dealer or private owner] never had a issue with any of them taking the vehicle to my independent mechanic.

But that is just me.

Welcome from Miami Beach!

Hey Miami, yeah he didn't want me taking it to a garage but he doesn't mind a mobile mechanic to come along and have a look, ones who have the equipment to hoist up the vehicle and check under the vehicle.

 

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

ANYWAY, here's the full file of all the videos and photos I took

Yukon 2000 - Google Drive

drive.google.com

a few videos on there I missed out but feel free to peruse.

 

[03yukXL]

Nothing you mentioned is a major issue. Your biggest concern should be if the trans was rebuild and the color of the trans fluid. Does it shift strong?

From what we can see in the photos and videos there isn’t anything that pops out but at 20 years old with that many miles you will be doing some repairs, you just want to avoid having to do any of the major ones.

 

[Mean_Green]

I just bought a 98, sight unseen. Listing looked good, miles were high for me, but within reason for the age. Price was good. I had someone from the area go to the dealer and look it over. They are not a mechanic, but I just wanted some eyes on it. Paid for it, had it shipped about 2,000 miles.

It's OK, but not quite as good as I'd hoped. A few odd things like headliner falling and needs to be replaced, hack job exhaust system I had to have fixed. Cruise doesn't work. Trailer connector wiring corroded to the point of wires breaking off. Grille and dash panel cracked. Sun fading on the clear coat. Door hinge roller pins broken off ... doors don't stay open, driver's door is sagging. A number of dings in doors and other panels that didn't show up in pictures. Some knobs and buttons missing from the dash area.

Various other minor issues that will cost money to have fixed.

I got my money's worth as far as I know, but there are still a lot of questions about mechanical systems like engine and transmission.

All of that said, this size vehicle is not something I would choose for commuting any distance. They are not easy on gas.

Also, you mention this is your first vehicle. Have you looked into insurance? That can be a real shock, sometimes as much as the vehicle payment. In a major metro area, this could be a couple of thousand dollars a year or more. For someone with no file history of vehicle insurance, it could be higher. I get multiple discounts based on years of continuous coverage and no claims. Even at that, I checked the rates before I bought. If they had been too high, I would not have bought.