Why did I start this...

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VikingFan

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Well, I saw the Truckin' build up of a fiberglass box in the rear quarter and I liked the idea, so I decided to do that. I've got a few pics of the build-up. I ran all the speaker wires today, installed 6-1/2" components up front and 6-1/2" coax in the rear doors. Gonna go hook up the amp now and maybe work on finishing off the top and sides of the box. In case you're wondering, this is the article I'm referring to
http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/1005tr_2007_gmc_yukon_buildup/index.html

I'll post pics as I get closer to finishing the project. Not too difficult but time consuming. So far the Yukon is rocking but a little 10" tucked behind that quarter will really finish it off nicely.

The speakers and amp I did are all Polk DXI series. Best Buy sold it all to me for about $700 with a coupon I had. I found all the stuff on eBay for about $300 so you could do it cheaper and even off the factory deck it is a HUGE improvement.
 
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VikingFan

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Hooked up the amp to the components. I knew it would make a big difference but wow! All of a sudden the fronts have some mid-bass and really sound great. Guess I might have to add that other amp. I was going to leave the rear coax off deck power and use the amp to drive the fronts with two channels and bridge the other 2 channels to the sub. But... I may go back to my original plan. Bridge the smaller 4 channel amp to two channels 150x2 and use the bigger amp 75x2 / 300x1 to drive the rears and the sub. I might need another battery, and I'll have to switch out to 4awg from 8.

The low point of the day, as I expected, the high level inputs picked up a ton of noise, so I think I'll swtich to a line level converter behind the deck tomorrow and run RCA's down the opposite side like my instincts told me to do in the first place.I'll have to hook up the air compressor to the air ratchet and pull that whole 2nd row out to make my life easy. It's so cold here I didn't want to put in any more time than I had to. But Murphy's law kicked in and reminded me that anything worth doing is worth doing well and if I cut a corner on the front end, it's going to cost me on the other end.
 

deangrell

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What are you using to bridge the gap between the head unit and the amp? I had a 3Sixty.2 available for $200 but someone bought it out from under me :(
 
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VikingFan

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After another long day in the garage (I'm not as fast as I used to be at these things) I'm a little closer. Here's what I did today.

Tried a different ground from the battery, didn't fix the noise or the annoying power-down noise. So I tried using the low-level out of the deck and hacking an RCA. That works, for about 10 minutes then it clips the input. Apparently the factory amp is under the center console, I am too tired to rip that out now. Maybe Friday.

Popped out the fiberglass box out of the truck now that it was cured. ground it down and made the top and two sides. Then glassed the open spots. That is curing now.

Put dynamat on the rear quarter

Cut a hole in the plastic quarter trim and made a funky looking grill. I need to make something a little smaller, I'm not happy with this.

So today, I have rear speakers and a massive headache from the fiberglass stench and probably carbon monoxide poisoning from running that propane heater all day.

I've got a bunch of pics of the box build that I'll post.

To answer deangrell: The rear speakers off the deck power are sufficient for the rear passengers and the fronts are loud enough they can probably enjoy those anyway. :)
 

Tahoewhat

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pics, pics, pics, We are all about the pics on here. ha ha.. Looking at that site, looks to be really nice project.
 
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VikingFan

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Here are a few pics. Sorry it took me so long. Not going to work on it today but I'll be back at it again tomorrow. I thought I had a pic of the grille I made to go over the side quarter panel but I can't seem to find it. I'm not really happy with it anyway and will probably make one out of fiberglass instead, but I need more hardener and Home Depot is closed today. I'm hungry anyway, I neglected to eat for 2-1/2 days aside from a small dinner.

Have a great thanksgiving everyone.

Edited to say, pic 3 is what it looks like when you start, with the jack under there. Pic 1 is the jack removed. Pic 2 is the quarter all taped and the first layer of glass and a layer of mat & glass just before I popped it out. Last pic is the top, side and front put on during a test fit.
 

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That Guy
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Well this would have been handy...

PAC AOEM-GM1416

I'll be calling the local shop tomorrow to see if they have it. Argh.

I guess you need it because you are keeping the stock HU?
You might as well upgrade that too as I can tell you appreciate good quality music.
 
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VikingFan

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Yep, keeping the stock head unit for the time being.

I was an installer for several years and worked at Audio King both as a sales guy and installer before it became Ultimate Electronics back in the mid 90's. I've got a very respectable home theater as well. However, with xmas coming and a wife that wants an IPad and a 3 year old that wants everything she sees advertised, i was trying to keep this somewhat budget conscious. That being said, I will upgrade the HU with a NAV and bluetooth capable unit at some point. Probably this spring; but not now. For about $300 I was able to make a pretty nice system. Might be closer to $400 once I add the other amp. Realized today the PA330 is a two channel. I thought it was just a half-powered 4 channel little brother to the PA660.
 

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That Guy
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I understan that, I am a wise spender as well, though this truck gets the best of mer at times.
Polk Audio is really good when it comes to sound quality, our family home is completely covered by their ceiling/in-wall speakers and LSi series, they sound really good.
I assume you are using a Polk sub, which one?
 
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VikingFan

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I went with a DXI104. 4 ohm, svc 10"

To be honest, it's probably going to be a LOT more than I want/need but I've always been partial to 10's. For my taste, it's the best all around size and they take up a minimal amount of room. I do have two Rockford 8's that I thought about using instead but I would have had quite a bit more work to do to get them to fit.

Just called every local car audio shop in town. NOBODY has this adapter. I'm going to search the forums and see what other's experiences have been, if any.

---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 AM ----------

No local dealers have the part, found it on Amazon. It was $25 less than the local stores wanted to order it so I did one day shipping for $20. Hopefully I get it tomorrow, I'm gonna bet Monday though. We shall see.

I'm really hoping this works. I read about 25 reviews. 3 people said it didn't work. One had Bose (I do not) and another had Nav, again, I do not. One guy said it didn't work with his factory deck with a factory amp. I am quite certain I have a factory amp, albeit a crappy non-bose amp. If this doesn't work, I have another plan but tearing out the center console to wire high-level inputs just doesn't sound like fun to me.

I'm going to finish up the sub box today. I need a trim ring and I need to silicone the box in and finish dynamat-ing the panel. Then I can put the rear of the truck back together. Then hopefully the adapter works tomorrow and I can button it all up and call it done. <Fingers crossed>
 

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Sounds like a plan.
You for sure don't have a factory amp since you do not have Bose, so hopefully the adapter will work for you.
I am also going to get a single 10" sub in like a month here and get it stealth installed, but I'm using Alpine equipment.
 
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VikingFan

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There is definitely an amp in there somewhere. The outputs from the deck will not drive a speaker, however they do have voltage and will drive RCA's (albeit somewhat poorly and inconsistently).

Well, after siliconing this thing in place and lining the edges with dynamat, and despite several test fits prior, the rear quarter didn't fit back in place. It was off by about 1/4". F*%k me... So... Cut the side off the box, and test fit again. This time without the grille cover in place. Now it fits perfect. So I made a new side piece out of 1/4" mdf that I am going to glass in place, it's obviously thinner than the 3/4" mdf but just as sturdy and gives me the clearance I need. Guess I should have test fit "ALL" the friction clips, not just make sure it slides into place. FYI - the piece that caused me problems was that tiny little storage locker in the far back. Stupid thing.

Oh well, I'm making a new grill/trim piece now too but I have to run to Home Depot to get some more hardener. On black friday...I can't wait.

Noob: there are some pics earlier in the thread. I'll post the new ones tonight or tomorrow.

I did have it running for a bit and she rocks. Although I think it keeps popping my gas cap open. That's going to get annoying. lol
 

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That Guy
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Im pretty sure you do not have an external amp if you do not have the Bose system. Without Bose systems are amped in the head unit. I just recently changed my head unit to a Pioneer unit and it had no amp, and I have the same non-Bose, no navigation stock unit as you.
 
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deangrell

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I will give you copious amounts of money to make an exact replica of your box/grille and ship it my way! I do not have the know-how, and there is no aftermarket solution for a hidden box. PM me if you are interested in working something out. I know cu. ft. are sparse back there and I am perfectly OK with a 10". Let me know!
 

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