What should i do about oil leak

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
A

ahunn

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2017
Posts
54
Reaction score
53
Location
Cincinnati
FWIW, I had to replace my oil pan gasket at about 80K miles. I had developed a leak which wouldn't respond to snugging the pan bolts. After that gasket was done, it has been dry as a bone underneath (knock on wood). I just looked it up and the total at the dealer here was just over $500, including an oil change and new filter.

After you get the catch can installed, you will get a pretty good idea how much oil is being pumped through the PCV back into the intake. Before I had the oil consumption TSB done on my engine (which includes getting the updated valve cover), I was losing about 1qt of oil every 1K miles. Some of the plugs were so fouled with carbon, they didn't look like spark plugs. After we did the oil consumption TSB (including the new valve cover), I installed a catch can and I get about a tablespoon of oil in the can between changes (5K miles).

Depending on how bad the oil ingestion has been, the TSB can be a pretty big deal. Let's hope most of your oil loss is in leaks and not through the PCV and intake.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,355
It should work, although I would probably get this one:

SFL_72462_P04_TOP__ra_p.jpg
 

badtothe bone

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Posts
111
Reaction score
10
Location
western pennsylvania
And pray tell what bad advice are you referring to here on this forum?
Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,355
Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..
Where did anyone say he needed to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal?
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
7,849
Reaction score
20,430
Location
Richmond, VA
Any Dummy that thinks you have to remove the oil pan - like a 1955 - 1985 Small Block Chevrolet - doesn't know what they are doing. As soon as I read that I realized these people are clueless. Go buy yourself a Chilton's Manual ..
I went back thru the thread also to see if I could spot what you’re talking about and I’m coming up short.
 

badtothe bone

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Posts
111
Reaction score
10
Location
western pennsylvania
The forum members are saying that you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal in a 5.3L V-8 engine.

You take the transmission out, take the adaptor off the back of the engine, pry out the old seal, pound in the new seal, put it back together, its not a hard job.
 

Larryjb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Posts
1,168
Reaction score
1,089
The forum members are saying that you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal in a 5.3L V-8 engine.

You take the transmission out, take the adaptor off the back of the engine, pry out the old seal, pound in the new seal, put it back together, its not a hard job.
No one said this. Members have recommended replacing the oil pan gasket, but no one said it must be removed to replace the rear main seal.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
A

ahunn

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2017
Posts
54
Reaction score
53
Location
Cincinnati
I'm back after a short hiatus. Took a vacation with the kids and family, which was great. We needed to get away and take a breather. I had some issues at work, and more issues with the tahoe to resolve; rack and pinion. I'll start another thread for that though.
I've only just driven about 3100 miles and have a little more than a 1/4 cup of oil in my catch can.
There were issues with the ordering of my new valve cover and so that had not been installed. I did just recently receive the valve cover in the mail and plan to install tomorrow if it doesn't rain here.
I'm ready to tackle this issue and hopefully put it behind me. I am so ready for a year of no issues with this suv.
 
OP
OP
A

ahunn

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2017
Posts
54
Reaction score
53
Location
Cincinnati
Replaced the valve cover last thursday. I'm curious to see how things look after another 3000 miles.
So far I have added an oil catch can, and a driver's side valve cover. Now onto the oil pan. I may tackle that myself instead of taking it to the shop. Time to search the forums for information.
Thank you everyone for all of your help and advice.
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
7,849
Reaction score
20,430
Location
Richmond, VA
Replaced the valve cover last thursday. I'm curious to see how things look after another 3000 miles.
So far I have added an oil catch can, and a driver's side valve cover. Now onto the oil pan. I may tackle that myself instead of taking it to the shop. Time to search the forums for information.
Thank you everyone for all of your help and advice.
Replaced the valve cover last thursday. I'm curious to see how things look after another 3000 miles.
So far I have added an oil catch can, and a driver's side valve cover. Now onto the oil pan. I may tackle that myself instead of taking it to the shop. Time to search the forums for information.
Thank you everyone for all of your help and advice.

Some notes on the oil pan:
You don't have to remove the differential on 4WD/AWD models to get the oil pan off. All you have to do is remove the axle shaft bolts on the passenger side and separate the CV axle from the flange. Then remove the 2 differential mounting bolts on the same side. The differential will hang plenty low enough to wiggle the oil pan out without having to drop the diff completely. You'll also need to remove the steering rack bolts and let it hang down, as well as remove the crossmember. You can drop it all in 30 minutes or less with a good air impact wrench. Add another 15 to get the pan off, and you're golden.

And if you're in that far, put in a new oil pump o-ring. It will be the thicker one on a truck engine. I didn’t do this the first time I did the job and regretted it when I didn’t have great oil pressure afterwards.

Also, use a new oil pan gasket, even though they're supposed to be reusable. Don't forget to put a dab of black RTV on the corners where it meets the front and rear covers.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
A

ahunn

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2017
Posts
54
Reaction score
53
Location
Cincinnati
Another update....
No more leaks!!! Valve cover is all good. The rear main was leaking pretty bad which I had repaired along with the oil pan.
I did not use the oil cooler gasket as that was not leaking. I am happy and no longer staining everyone's driveways. :happy107:
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
7,849
Reaction score
20,430
Location
Richmond, VA
Another update....
No more leaks!!! Valve cover is all good. The rear main was leaking pretty bad which I had repaired along with the oil pan.
I did not use the oil cooler gasket as that was not leaking. I am happy and no longer staining everyone's driveways. :happy107:
Nicely done! Thanks for following up with the solution, too.
 

justchecking

Military
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
515
Reaction score
1,472
Location
SW Ohio
Ahunn, who did the work for you? I live north of Cincy and would like to have that filed away just in case...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
138,093
Posts
1,998,766
Members
103,016
Latest member
BadDaddy2003
Back
Top