What Oil for a 6.2 that passes the PICO test?

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Bigbird

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Does anyone know what brand of Oil they are using for the 6.2 recall?
Is it a GM oil or a regular oil company oil?
I want to get a quart to keep on hand in case I need it
 

Antonm

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The last I knew Mobil 1 was the only Dexos (the GM spec) approved 0W40 oil maker out there.

Not that non-Dexos oils are bad or anything, Dexos is just GM's proprietary oil specification. To get the Dexos certification, oil manufacturers must jump through a lot of hoops with GM and disclose to GM a lot of what are normally considered trade secrets, so some oil manufactures don't bother with getting the Dexos seal on oils that would otherwise pass that certification spec.

And the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is a federal law, so its not like GM say deny a warranty for not using their proprietary spec oil (such things are exactly why this law exists). Long post to say,,, use whatever oil brand you like that carries an API-SP rating.
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jerry455

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GM does not make their own oil, it is usually Mobil 1. When the vehicle passes the test, it gets an oil change to 0W40 Mobil 1 Super car oil. That is the only Mobil 1 0W40 that is currently Dexos approved. I picked up my 2021 Suburban from the dealer Friday afternoon for this recall procedure. I have been using this oil for over a year in my 94,000 mile truck.
 

Antonm

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GM does not make their own oil, it is usually Mobil 1. When the vehicle passes the test, it gets an oil change to 0W40 Mobil 1 Super car oil. That is the only Mobil 1 0W40 that is currently Dexos approved. I picked up my 2021 Suburban from the dealer Friday afternoon for this recall procedure. I have been using this oil for over a year in my 94,000 mile truck.

There are actually two Mobil 1 oils , in 0W40, that are Dexos approved. The green labeled one on the right below is Dexos-2 approved and of course the Mobil 1 Supercar which is Dexos-R approved

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Screenshot below is from the Mobil 1 website, they even state that the supercar oil was "originally called Mobil 1 ESP" (aka the green labeled stuff in the first pic) but has now become the first ever Dexos-R.

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So technically there are two options for Dexos approved oils in 0W40, but if I were in Vegas, I'd bet it all on the two oils being identical, or virtually identical.

Again though, just because an oil isn't Dexos approved doesn't mean it wont do just as good or better than the Dexos approved stuff, just means the oil manufacturer didn't pander to GM enough to get the seal.
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Jay P Wy

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Some oils have been added to Dexos R. More than 2 now.
 

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Antonm

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Some oils have been added to Dexos R. More than 2 now.

Aren't those are just the different part numbers for various size containers the oil can be ordered in (i.e box of six quarts, 55 gallon drum, etc.)?

Here are four of the part numbers (same two oils, just different quantity), there is a a fifth part in your pic, but its for a 5w50 variant of the supercar labeled oil (which I suppose one could use 5W50 if they wanted to, but we've been talking about 0w40s so far at least).

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jerry455

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5W50 might be what is speced for when someone "tracks" their Camaro or Corvette.
 

Jay P Wy

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Aren't those are just the different part numbers for various size containers the oil can be ordered in (i.e box of six quarts, 55 gallon drum, etc.)?

Here are four of the part numbers (same two oils, just different quantity), there is a a fifth part in your pic, but its for a 5w50 variant of the supercar labeled oil (which I suppose one could use 5W50 if they wanted to, but we've been talking about 0w40s so far at least).

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No, the bottom 3 on my list are 3 different types of mobil 1. Mobil 1 Fs is a european oil and may be harder to find in the US.
 

Eighthtry

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After putting an average of 200,000 plus miles on three different cars: 1990 Taurus SHO (300,000+ miles) and 2010 Cadillac V 556/551 performance cars, and and a 2011 GMC Yukon 6.2, changing Amsoil filters every 5,000 miles and Amsoil every 10,000 miles, none used any oil between changes. It was signature 5/30 I bought by the drum. I now put 5/30 in all of my cars, which also included the 2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL (0/40 spec) that the wife just totaled. Blew every airbag. I was very fortunate she was not hurt because I had no one to cook for me. The takeaway is that oil recommendations are overblown. They are there to gain what little gas mileage can be had at 0 weight, which is stupid. 5/30 on any quality synthetic and quality oil filter will not harm the engine at all, even if they do say 0/40. My 2018 Z06 specs 5/30 and has a serious blower working overtime to get to 650/650. Go figure.

So did I abuse those engines and put them in danger at 170 mph on two of them or 140 mph on the Taurus? My evidence says no. It is a quality synthetic oil (they are not all created equally), a quality oil filter (they are not all created equally), and quality air filter, (they are not all created equally). And quality air filters DO NOT include the oiled rag filters that increase horsepower by 50% or whatever it is they claim. Quality oils need no aftermarket help. Quality gasoline could benefit on occasion from a dose of Techron if the injectors begin to clog (you will know when that happens).

Time for the disagreement to start.
 

Eighthtry

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Much can be learned on oil and filter performance on youtube from Project Farm or The Motor Oil Geek. Oh, I forgot. My engine builder spec'd 20/50 on my warmed up Olds 455. It uses no oil either, but that is a completely different engine build than the later model motors above. I could probably change to 5/30, but I am staying with the builder's recommendation.
 

MH48

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Eighthtry, Here Here! You’re spot on.
By far the majority of oils at our disposal should be great, not all but most. Now as I Comment and am reminiscing… Going back to the 70’s and drag racing days working in an engine building shop, we made many engine changes in attempt for a quicker ET, of course. Now, one of the things we learned the hard way, was reducing the oil pressure, yup, way back in the 70’s. What we learned was bearing failures early on to give .005 ET gain. Worth it? Heck no! When running at a slightly higher than stock oil pressure we had main/rod bearings last through the entire season! They looked and measured perfect! When we would go through the engines in prep for the next year we changed perfectly good bearings. Why? Just because we thought it would be wise. Oh well…
So all that being said, some older engines with solid oil pressures have much more reliable bottom ends. So, as a partial, maybe partial, issue with bottom failures is the variable pressure oil pumps. Could be several variables in combination. Who will know for sure? The real truth is unavailable when money is primary.
So one real truth: 70’s oil (remember Kendall GT1?) gave EXCELLENT bearing protection through 100’s of 1/4 miles passes in a 4000 pound wagon with 2x4 carbs running 11:0’s!
And note, 1970’s oils VS 2025 oils?
Think about…
Have a blessed day and an amazing Christmas season! mh
 

Marky Dissod

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GM didn't do sufficient quality control on the machining finishing & cleaning of the crank & crank bearings.
Even if the 5w30 spec'd for GM's 6.6L L8T is a better idea than 0w20, making the customer pay for better motor oil will never make up for GM;s fundamental errors.

Still waiting to see how many L87s fail to hit 200,000 miles.
 

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