What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geotrash

Dave
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I would beware of those mevotech, just have seen some reports of the rubber going bad after not too long, I have considered using there parts a few times and did use there end links for a year or two but the bushings seemed to not be all great after 2 years, replaced with a duralast lifetime endlink of 99% identical design.
I decided to spend the extra money and get oem for the rest of it. I am probably going to be owning this thing for quite some time still.
still have another 2 1/2 years payments on the wifes rig before I can even consider looking for a 2020 which is the newest I will likely ever buy
I don't want something that is going to require all kinds of crap work just to get it to roll should it break down, I don't care how pretty they look, the engines are breaking and I can't quit believe that going with 0-40 is going to cure that, no thanks
Well, shit. I did a bunch of reading and there were a ton of positive reviews, so I rolled the dice. I put a mix of Duralast uppers and Moog lowers on my '07 a few years ago because I needed the parts same day and that's all the local stores had. The rubber boots on the lowers are cracked and about torn. I would've gone OEM this time but all Rockauto had in stock were the ACDelco gold. They were out of GM Genuine lowers.

I'll never use Mevotech again. I had their balljoints on my 79 T/A and used their supplied cotter pin which broke within 6 months causing the balljoint to exit the control arm at about 60 MPH. Everything was torqued to spec and checked. They barely had 300 miles on them. The upper balljoint wasnt far off from leaving the chat either. Never Again. Spend the extra money or get better cotter pins.
That's a new one for me. I've never even heard of a broken cotter pin on a ball joint. I will buy good cotter pins from the local Napa, so thanks for that warning.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Well, shit. I did a bunch of reading and there were a ton of positive reviews, so I rolled the dice. I put a mix of Duralast uppers and Moog lowers on my '07 a few years ago because I needed the parts same day and that's all the local stores had. The rubber boots on the lowers are cracked and about torn. I would've gone OEM this time but all Rockauto had in stock were the ACDelco gold. They were out of GM Genuine lowers.


That's a new one for me. I've never even heard of a broken cotter pin on a ball joint. I will buy good cotter pins from the local Napa, so thanks for that warning.
I had never had that issue either but after I got it towed home and on jackstands the 2 pieces of pin were still in the balljoint. I've done countless front end replacements over the years but never had that happen. Was it a fluke? Maybe but I wont take that chance again. I now have a box of Stainless Pins in my toolbox and will use those now on anything.
 

Tonyrodz

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Well, shit. I did a bunch of reading and there were a ton of positive reviews, so I rolled the dice. I put a mix of Duralast uppers and Moog lowers on my '07 a few years ago because I needed the parts same day and that's all the local stores had. The rubber boots on the lowers are cracked and about torn. I would've gone OEM this time but all Rockauto had in stock were the ACDelco gold. They were out of GM Genuine lowers.


That's a new one for me. I've never even heard of a broken cotter pin on a ball joint. I will buy good cotter pins from the local Napa, so thanks for that warning.
Moog really went downhill. They were the go to at one time. I think Timken is also going downhill.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Moog really went downhill. They were the go to at one time. I think Timken is also going downhill.
I've always had good luck with AC Delco parts from rockauto..they must make them in the good china factory. I agree tho...moog has gone down a bit. If they offer it I'll go SKF or SKP for my bearings now. *** is good but normally only for euro models i've found. Lots of the Rockauto Options are gonna be Chinese built sadly.
 

lowh07

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Added some relays so the switchback DRLs turn off when the headlights are on. There was alotta light up front and this cleans it all up. One of my switchbacks was flickering, so I replaced all four and the color looks a lot better. The white is actually white. Also fixed the intermittent hyper flash issue. Each bulb needed a resistor instead of just one on each side for both (duh).

Also wired the fog lights to come on with the headlights. Easy to put them back to stock if I want. I'm trying to get them to work normally when the headlights are off. Ordered some diodes so hopefully that'll do the trick.

Also upgraded my radar detector from my og e5c0rt (weird spelling for auto filter) redline to the redline 360c. Put it on a Blend Mount and wired it through the headliner to come on with the key, with an extra control box/mute button that's easy to hit. My old one served me well for 10 years, but this is way mo betta.

Sorry no pics for now
 
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