What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bombsquad85]

Got it aligned after the drop. Very pleased with how it came out

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What drop did you go with?

 

[04Huck]

What drop did you go with?

It’s a combination of things. Belltech 2” spindles, stock keys with ~3-4 turns LF and ~6-7 turns RF. Belltech 4” springs in the rear with no isolators. Spohn panhard bar and Belltech sway bars front and rear. Rear bar is currently not on, I have to move it over to the passenger side to clear the PHB bracket. It sways ALOT without it [emoji23] Hoping to do that tomorrow


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[Bombsquad85]

It’s a combination of things. Belltech 2” spindles, stock keys with ~3-4 turns LF and ~6-7 turns RF. Belltech 4” springs in the rear with no isolators. Spohn panhard bar and Belltech sway bars front and rear. Rear bar is currently not on, I have to move it over to the passenger side to clear the PHB bracket. It sways ALOT without it [emoji23] Hoping to do that tomorrow


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Was there anything special with the install of the spindles? Any special tools or tips?

 

[Isaiah W]

Put new foglight housings in, the lens of the old ones fell off and one was foggy. They came with halogen bulbs, but I put some LED's in.

 

[04Huck]

Was there anything special with the install of the spindles? Any special tools or tips?

Nothing specially really, just a breaker bar and a BFH.

Obviously the brakes have to come off. I think the tie rod end nut is an 18mm, the UCA balljoint nut is 18, the lower is 24 IIRC. The 3 bolts holding the hub in are 15s (that’s where you’ll need the breaker bar). Then use the BFH (I prefer a 3lb sledge) to hit the bosses on spindle by the BJ. It’ll come loose after a few good swings.

Then reassemble


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[Bombsquad85]

Nothing specially really, just a breaker bar and a BFH.

Obviously the brakes have to come off. I think the tie rod end nut is an 18mm, the UCA balljoint nut is 18, the lower is 24 IIRC. The 3 bolts holding the hub in are 15s (that’s where you’ll need the breaker bar). Then use the BFH (I prefer a 3lb sledge) to hit the bosses on spindle by the BJ. It’ll come loose after a few good swings.

Then reassemble


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Awesome thanks. The axle nut is 35mm right?

 

[chrmbly]

Got original wheels refinished and painted black - Decided to take the plunge and dip my chrome parts... Still need to do the rear bumper. Made a few mistakes, may need to re-dip eventually... for now it's ok (have some chrome peeking through from pulling tape too quickly, i think). Gotta learn somehow, I suppose.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Awesome thanks. The axle nut is 35mm right?

OEM 35, replacements 36. I reused mine, but you're not really supposed to.

 

[04Huck]

Awesome thanks. The axle nut is 35mm right?

Don’t remember. Mines 2wd and it’s been a couple years since I did axles on a 4wd


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[Chubbs]

I went to flush the brake lines and upon extracting the contents of the reservoir, massive amounts of debris was being cycled out with the orig fill B/F. Naturally, I continued adding new BF & extracting to continue removing the contaminants but I never reached a point where I was comfortable pulling what was left down through the calipers. The debris looks like silicone or some or synthetic base like the properties of a seal. After going through a quart I decided to top it off and leave it be so that I can remove more contamination tomorrow.

Am I being paranoid or will all of this flow through the caliper valves without issue? I'm going to start with the closest caliper so that I'm not pulling this shit through every last inch of hyd pipe.

 

[6speedblazer]

Got my projector retrofit completed on my denali. Took me a while to track down some new adjusters as mine were seized and the headlights needed adjusted

 

[Tonyrodz]

View attachment 197059 View attachment 197060 View attachment 197061 View attachment 197062 I went to flush the brake lines and upon extracting the contents of the reservoir, massive amounts of debris was being cycled out with the orig fill B/F. Naturally, I continued adding new BF & extracting to continue removing the contaminants but I never reached a point where I was comfortable pulling what was left down through the calipers. The debris looks like silicone or some or synthetic base like the properties of a seal. After going through a quart I decided to top it off and leave it be so that I can remove more contamination tomorrow.

Am I being paranoid or will all of this flow through the caliper valves without issue? I'm going to start with the closest caliper so that I'm not pulling this shit through every last inch of hyd pipe. View attachment 197059View attachment 197060View attachment 197061View attachment 197062

Nasty stuff. What kind of tool are you using there?

 

[Shaw520]

Nasty stuff.

Gotta do mine.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Gotta do mine.

Same here.

 

[Countryboy07]

Got my projector retrofit completed on my denali. Took me a while to track down some new adjusters as mine were seized and the headlights needed adjusted

Need some pics!

 

[Chubbs]

What kind of tool are you using there?

You know! MityVac.

that debris is either the MC seals degrading or even worse, it's backflush from mashing the caliper Pistons full open installing new brake pads. They say if you are smart, crack the bleeder when you manually open the calipers. It's hard to fix stupid.

 

[Shaw520]

You know! MityVac.

that debris is either the MC seals degrading or even worse, it's backflush from mashing the caliper Pistons full open installing new brake pads. They say if you are smart, crack the bleeder when you manually open the calipers. It's hard to fix stupid.

Thats very true,.. When u manually open caliper without opening bleeder,.. Yer pushing all that crap/debris back up into the m/s and the rest of the network.

 

[PG01]

You know! MityVac.

that debris is either the MC seals degrading or even worse, it's backflush from mashing the caliper Pistons full open installing new brake pads. They say if you are smart, crack the bleeder when you manually open the calipers. It's hard to fix stupid.

A few people have mentioned this to me, i tried it once, never noticed a difference.. something about back flushing through the abs iirc

 

[Chubbs]

@Galante

I can't know for sure if the trash originated within the MC resi' or if it backflushed, or if b/f is even possible. The shear quantity of particles really gives me pause. I've never seen this level of saturation. I won't be surprised if the brakes malfunction tomorrow.

I just need somebody to confirm past experience pulling full blown debris field through the caliper valves. The pics I posted are nothing compared to the volume of trash I see in irregular intervals when evacuating the BF resivoir.

And after seeing the sample collected in the milk jug, it's clearly obvious I have to go on and evacuate the pipes ASAP. If I don't get any feedback on this by tomw I will pump the resi out 1-more time and see what happens at the calipers after that. So much for Gravity purge, I'm going straight to the brake pedal

 

[M1Gunner]

@Galante

I can't know for sure if the trash originated within the MC resi' or if it backflushed, or if b/f is even possible. The shear quantity of particles really gives me pause. I've never seen this level of saturation. I won't be surprised if the brakes malfunction tomorrow.

I just need somebody to confirm past experience pulling full blown debris field through the caliper valves. The pics I posted are nothing compared to the volume of trash I see in irregular intervals when evacuating the BF resivoir.

And after seeing the sample collected in the milk jug, it's clearly obvious I have to go on and evacuate the pipes ASAP. If I don't get any feedback on this by tomw I will pump the resi out 1-more time and see what happens at the calipers after that. So much for Gravity purge, I'm going straight to the brake pedal

Gravity bleeding is a practice of the past. Though many still do it, it is an inefficient and improper bleeding procedure.

That being said, what you are sucking out with the mityvac WILL pump through your brake system. Yes, do yourself the favor and break the caliper bleeders free before you manually retract the caliper pistons. Your abs module will thank you later.

Bleed the system as normal, first opening the bleeder and manually retracting the caliper then closing off the bleeder one at a time. If you are replacing rotors and/or pads do your thing and button everything back up.

Suck out the fluid from the MC resi and fill it with new fluid. Pump/hold/bleed the brakes as normal starting with right rear until clean fluid flows. Then repeat for left rear then right front and then left front until they all push clean clear fluid. If you have access to a scan tool it’s good practice to bleed the abs via the scan tool BUT it’s not a must do UNLESS you are replacing the abs module/hbcu.

Edit: ps when was the last time you serviced the fluid?