What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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02_Tahoe

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So today I was fixing the squat I had. The rear fender was 1.25" lower than the front but after you take out that the front fender is .75" higher, it was a half in higher in the front. So decranked the keys and literally got it perfectly level. Before I did this I noticed my UCA's were hitting the droop stop even on a level surface, so I did this today 1.to get rid of the squat and 2. Put less stress on the front end. So now it's down a half inch. I went to look at the UCA and it's still resting on the droop stop but I measured to check again and it definitely got lower. How does it get lower but still rest on the droop stop?
 

Rocket Man

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So today I was fixing the squat I had. The rear fender was 1.25" lower than the front but after you take out that the front fender is .75" higher, it was a half in higher in the front. So decranked the keys and literally got it perfectly level. Before I did this I noticed my UCA's were hitting the droop stop even on a level surface, so I did this today 1.to get rid of the squat and 2. Put less stress on the front end. So now it's down a half inch. I went to look at the UCA and it's still resting on the droop stop but I measured to check again and it definitely got lower. How does it get lower but still rest on the droop stop?
It's supposed to rest on the jounce stop. It acts as a fulcrum on the torsion bar. It's part of the design of this type of suspension.
 

02_Tahoe

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It's supposed to rest on the jounce stop. It acts as a fulcrum on the torsion bar. It's part of the design of this type of suspension.
I understand that, but im talking about the piece that prevents too much down travel
 

02_Tahoe

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Need a picture of what you're talking about.
IMG_1465.JPG

It actually doesn't look like it's resting on it in this picture, but it's not on a level surface. I'll take a better look at it in the morning
 

Tonyrodz

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With new tires and new seat cover, we decided to take a scenic drive this weekend. After a few hundred miles around south Texas it's OK to say the tires and seat refurb is good as gold. No more shakes up to 95mph and my butt felt great in the seat. Lol...averaged 17mpg not bad

Screenshot_2017-06-11-16-16-29_zpsh5ijpzxv.jpg
I missed it, what tires did you get? Did they solve your shaking? What size are they? I'm also having some shaking. Nothing terrible, just annoying.
 

inmypassatlife

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I missed it, what tires did you get? Did they solve your shaking? What size are they? I'm also having some shaking. Nothing terrible, just annoying.
I bought the truck already lowered with the wheels. Always had a shake at 60 and 70. PO had the truck sit a few years with those tires. I replaced all four due to dry rot after putting about 8k miles on them.

I bought 305/35r24 Lionhart LH10 they had good reviews at the Mercedes and SRT forums.
 

inmypassatlife

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I'll tell you one thing my buddies shop did that other don't, they used the old style hammer on weights instead of the stick on weights as they aren't fond of the stick on with large wheels.
 

02_Tahoe

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Well my UCA's aren't resting on droop stops anymore, got about 3/8" of space between them. I guess when I first brought it down it didn't show but then I drove it and it must have settled in. That's the only thing I think could have happened. It's about 1/8-1/4 lower in the front than the back but since the front fender is higher it looks level so I'm thinking about just leaving it alone. And it rides so much better now. I still think I should get at least new upper control arms because I need to take them off to replace the camber bolts and camber guide pins. I'll also get bump stops and tie rods ends. If I get new bump stops. Do any of you lifted guys know if they make bigger ones for lifted rides, just in case OEM ones aren't big enough?
 

brian.roberts.1293

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What did I do to my truck today?
After getting a car wash, and getting it nice and shiny yesterday?

Go Geocaching out in the woods and get the truck covered in dust, of course!
View attachment 83748 View attachment 83749
Ok so I keep hearing about geocaching and I've got a couple replica from higher elevation spots like grandfather mountain and such. But what is this you guys are doing.

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Rocket Man

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I'll tell you one thing my buddies shop did that other don't, they used the old style hammer on weights instead of the stick on weights as they aren't fond of the stick on with large wheels.
I tried the hammer on weights but they look ugly on the outside of my Dubs and I found out just putting them on the inside doesn't work so stick ons combined with hammer on did it.
 

inmypassatlife

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I tried the hammer on weights but they look ugly on the outside of my Dubs and I found out just putting them on the inside doesn't work so stick ons combined with hammer on did it.
They just used hammer on weights on the inside, I still have a slight shake at lower speed...and I mean super minimal maround 30mph, but I think that is the sway bar links. Of which I have had in a box in the back of my truck for like 4 months lol! I originall y ordered AC Delco end links and then decided on polyurethane links, Amazon refunded me and told me to keep the AC Delco's so i never reordered the poly bushings. Just gotta get off my ass and do them.
 

95escahoe

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They just used hammer on weights on the inside, I still have a slight shake at lower speed...and I mean super minimal maround 30mph, but I think that is the sway bar links. Of which I have had in a box in the back of my truck for like 4 months lol! I originall y ordered AC Delco end links and then decided on polyurethane links, Amazon refunded me and told me to keep the AC Delco's so i never reordered the poly bushings. Just gotta get off my ass and do them.

Speaking of this shake both of you are dealing with I run 20's had a shake due to one of the stick on weights coming off on the driver front wheel had them all taken off and rebalanced with the stick on weights rides smooth no shakes, some of the aftermarket rims have balancing issues that's why I went with the brand I went with


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inmypassatlife

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Speaking of this shake both of you are dealing with I run 20's had a shake due to one of the stick on weights coming off on the driver front wheel had them all taken off and rebalanced with the stick on weights rides smooth no shakes, some of the aftermarket rims have balancing issues that's why I went with the brand I went with


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yeah i was just happy to see someone use hammer on weights again. they are good guys and cheaper than eBay with installed tires. Mine were $135 installed each, that same day I found the same tires on ebay for $130 each shipped. They treat me well, they are currently on the lookout for a used set of Texas Editions or Honeycombs to come in used. I get first dibs and they would do them for $700 installed.
 

#1taho

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They used stick on weights on mine. And I got centreing rings that I didn't have before. Seems to have got worse. And the front end is tight!!!
 

95escahoe

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yeah i was just happy to see someone use hammer on weights again. they are good guys and cheaper than eBay with installed tires. Mine were $135 installed each, that same day I found the same tires on ebay for $130 each shipped. They treat me well, they are currently on the lookout for a used set of Texas Editions or Honeycombs to come in used. I get first dibs and they would do them for $700 installed.

Hammer on weights have a better chance of staying on long term but I hate how they look/leave the marks on the rim, on something non custom I wouldn't care at all, hope u find some Texas rims they would look great on there


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