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Not enough lights.
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On barn doors no less!Look! It's the forum's favorite taillights!
Are you lowered?I have the energy suspension greaseable sway bar bushings and love them. I have Belltech front and rear sway bars.
2/3Are you lowered?
Which front and rear end links did you get? How'd you go about measuring yours?
I have Moog sway bar end links on the front cause the Belltech's broke after about a year. I have Belltech links on the rear with no problems.Which front and rear end links did you get? How'd you go about measuring yours?
Did you get the universal ones? How'd you measure for them? Pulled the sway bar down some to measure? Just trying to visualize it.I have Moog sway bar end links on the front cause the Belltech's broke after about a year. I have Belltech links on the rear with no problems.
Are the rear ones shortened though, so your swaybar sits parallel with the ground? That's usually the problem- if you shorten the rear endlinks enough to get the swaybar parallel, the panhard bar mount hits. That's why the DJM ones a have a bent one on the right which moves the swaybar over 1".I have Moog sway bar end links on the front cause the Belltech's broke after about a year. I have Belltech links on the rear with no problems.
Don't disconnect anything to measure, it must be done with the suspension loaded and if you disconnect the swaybars when the weight is on them you're in for it. Did you go to Energy Suspension's website and look at page 8 of their catalog like I suggested? There's diagrams and instructions! Here's some text from that page: "Did you get the universal ones? How'd you measure for them? Pulled the sway bar down some to measure? Just trying to visualize it.
I did go check it out. I'm just trying to figure out, if the bar isn't parallel to the lca, how to make it parallel so I can measure for the proper length that I need. I only want to do it once.Don't disconnect anything to measure, it must be done with the suspension loaded and if you disconnect the swaybars when the weight is on them you're in for it. Did you go to Energy Suspension's website and look at page 8 of their catalog like I suggested? There's diagrams and instructions! Here's some text from that page: "
TO FIT: Vehicle must be on level ground (not jacked up) with wheels
supporting it. Make sure stabilizer bar end eyelet (B) is parallel with control
arm (C). Many times they are not. You may be required to use a slightly
longer or shorter sleeve length than the original. Measure sleeve length."
I have the stock end links on the rear. I looked at it and its just a tad from being completely parallel. Why does it have to be perfectly parallel to the ground?Are the rear ones shortened though, so your swaybar sits parallel with the ground? That's usually the problem- if you shorten the rear endlinks enough to get the swaybar parallel, the panhard bar mount hits. That's why the DJM ones a have a bent one on the right which moves the swaybar over 1".
Add or subtract from the stock one. In our case (lowered) it will be subtract. If it's 1/2" from being parallel then deduct 1/2 " from what's there now. That's why I tell people that are installing a new swaybar to install the endlinks they have so they have somewhere to start from.I did go check it out. I'm just trying to figure out, if the bar isn't parallel to the lca, how to make it parallel so I can measure for the proper length that I need. I only want to do it once.
That's how they're designed, if they're angled up or down the tension or leverage (anti-sway) would be less. They work better parallel. If you look at the shape of them you can see they are designed to be flat and will resist side to side force better oriented that way. My rear was way off being lowered 3-4". The DJM endlinks made a difference I could feel. Once you get everything dialed in and it all works together right, it's amazing how these big rigs handle. Swaybars and endlinks are just part of the equation but I feel they're pretty important.I have the stock end links on the rear. I looked at it and its just a tad from being completely parallel. Why does it have to be perfectly parallel to the ground?
Thanks againThat's how they're designed, if they're angled up or down the tension or leverage (anti-sway) would be less. They work better parallel. If you look at the shape of them you can see they are designed to be flat and will resist side to side force better oriented that way. My rear was way off being lowered 3-4". The DJM endlinks made a difference I could feel. Once you get everything dialed in and it all works together right, it's amazing how these big rigs handle. Swaybars and endlinks are just part of the equation but I feel they're pretty important.
Cognito is pretty much only choice. I think skyjacker had them at one time but pretty sure they didn't sell many so they quit making them. Cognito has a good reputation and makes a quality product, gotta pay to play. If you just want a good replacement uca look at the Moog problem solver line. Has a better designed ball joint. (Hint Cognito uses the obs style ball joint from Moog in their arms)Why does no one sell uca for lifted tahoes. They sell a lot for the 07+ and ones for 88-99 but nothing for 00-06. The only thing I can find is from cognito but I'm not trying to spend $575 for uca's. Does anyone know where to get some
I saw the moog ones but I know the ones made for lifts are angled to keep the ball joint in the right position so I didn't know if I could use those with keys cranked 3 inchesCognito is pretty much only choice. I think skyjacker had them at one time but pretty sure they didn't sell many so they quit making them. Cognito has a good reputation and makes a quality product, gotta pay to play. If you just want a good replacement uca look at the Moog problem solver line. Has a better designed ball joint. (Hint Cognito uses the obs style ball joint from Moog in their arms)
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All depends on how far cranked they are. Their claimed 3" from a key isn't always 3". I have keys in mine and my UCA'S are flat and 1/2" away from droop stop plates. All the keys are doing is adding more preload to gain small height. If they are maxed out and resting on droop stops then yea I say drop the money on the cognito parts. They are designed to correct that.I saw the moog ones but I know the ones made for lifts are angled to keep the ball joint in the right position so I didn't know if I could use those with keys cranked 3 inches