What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mattbta]

Gave this a shot on the Hoe and wife's GLE. Guess we'll see in the sun tomorrow how well it did.

 

[S33k3r]

Installed the ABS module that came back from the eBay service (rapid_electronics). For $79 it was excellent service. 24 hour turnaround!! Mailed on Monday received back Friday.

Nice to not have ABS and brake light glaring at you !

I may have a battery discharge problem maybe from malfunctioning door sensors or ignition lock cylinder (potentially), I’ll open a separate thread on this…

View attachment 439703

I know I'm 10 days late but... Do you have the console radio controls for the 2nd row passengers? There's a YouTube video where someone found this. Might be as good a place as any to start.

 

[viven44]

Do you have the console radio controls for the 2nd row passengers?

Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

 

[Scottydoggs]

Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

up front where the rear controls are, switch that one knob to aux iirc. then the rear panel should be able to control the ac temp fan speed and direction.

 

[viven44]

up front where the rear controls are, switch that one knob to aux iirc. then the rear panel should be able to control the ac temp fan speed and direction.

Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

 

[Scottydoggs]

Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

ive read the owners manual to learn how all that works, but really never used it. ive got a dvd player as well, have had the truck for 6 years and never even messed with it. manuals are free on line. mine was supposed to have two sets of head phones and a remote but i never got them things.

 

[S33k3r]

Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

I am suggesting the radio controls can have a bad module and that is your parasitic loss. There's a YouTube video on it.

 

[viven44]

I am suggesting the radio controls can have a bad module and that is your parasitic loss. There's a YouTube video on it.

Oh I gotcha...

I think we figured out the parasitic loss. It happens when the vehicle is turned off, key removed, and dinging won't stop with the door open. What I end up doing is re-inserting the ignition key, moving the key to run position, bringing it to off again. It's almost like the ignition key coming out in the accessory mode..... doesn't happen very often. When this issue becomes often enough I'm sure I will need to address it. Guess its a worn ignition cylinder/switch ?

 

[S33k3r]

Oh I gotcha...

I think we figured out the parasitic loss. It happens when the vehicle is turned off, key removed, and dinging won't stop with the door open. What I end up doing is re-inserting the ignition key, moving the key to run position, bringing it to off again. It's almost like the ignition key coming out in the accessory mode..... doesn't happen very often. When this issue becomes often enough I'm sure I will need to address it. Guess its a worn ignition cylinder/switch ?

That would be what I suggest. Also, unless budget is an issue, I'd just go ahead and do it. With all the security system issues directly associated with the cylinder, it would just be peace of mind for me. And I need all the pieces I can get... <insert drum roll>.

Additionally, make sure you don't have a heavy keychain hanging from your ignition key. That wears out the ignition cylinder SO much faster. I can't get this through the thick skulls of my daughters and/or wife. But, then again, none of them has had their key fall out of the ignition at 50+ miles per hour, lock steering, and start you drifting over in front of a tractor trailer while the car is starting to slow... In the immortal words of Andy Rooney: "I know I have."

 

[viven44]

That would be what I suggest. Also, unless budget is an issue, I'd just go ahead and do it. With all the security system issues directly associated with the cylinder, it would just be peace of mind for me. And I need all the pieces I can get... <insert drum roll>.

Additionally, make sure you don't have a heavy keychain hanging from your ignition key. That wears out the ignition cylinder SO much faster. I can't get this through the thick skulls of my daughters and/or wife. But, then again, none of them has had their key fall out of the ignition at 50+ miles per hour, lock steering, and start you drifting over in front of a tractor trailer while the car is starting to slow... In the immortal words of Andy Rooney: "I know I have."

Great point… probably the reason for wear from the previous owner. I have never used more than just the key(s) for the vehicle on the ignition cylinder. I have replaced many ignition switches on my 80s pickups I bought used … a heavy keychain will certainly accelerate wear on both the cylinder itself and also the rod moving back and forth could wear down the ignition switch….

Yeah, years of experience with old trucks will teach you a think or 2… it does change your perspective on how you approach problems (emissions, mechanical) … don’t need computers most of the time to tell what is going on… but the more recent newer vehicles certainly need a high level scanner.

I’m still more comfortable driving my carbureted trucks to date … Carry a few spare parts and a gallon of engine oil and I’m good to go

And no budget isn’t an issue. I don’t mind replacing the ignition cylinder, but if the worst it could do is put the car in a battery draining state, maybe I could watch for that and bide my time. But if there are other perils from that I’d do it sooner.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

On my 2001, I have the rear audio controls. They haven't worked ever since l swapped out the stock head unit years ago. If i remember correctly, the rear audio controls only controlled the headphone jack on the audio panel. When activated, the rear speakers are muted/disabled, and the selected audio source is played through the headphone jack. Not sure if they ALL work like that or not. But my truck came with the mid grade stereo system. Its the amplified system with a factory rear subwoofer, but its NOT the BOSE system. However, when AM/FM was selected, it DID override the dash radio. I suspect its because the radio actually had to be on to supply radio audio to the rear headphone jacks. When Cd/Cassette/Auxiliary was selected, the in dash head unit stayed on whatever it was already playing, and was unaffected. For instance, if I had the radio playing an FM station and a rear passenger selected CD, the CD would play ONLY through the rear headphone jacks, and the FM radio would continue playing up front. (On the two front door speakers only). But if I was listening to a CD, and the rear passenger selected FM radio, then my in dash radio would switch over to radio. The kids used to piss me off with that all the time.

 

[Kman]

Was driving to work and I heard a loud pop from the driver side rear window when I went to roll it up. Window was stuck an inch down. Replaced the window motor and actuator. Did it myself, after watching some videos online. Took me 2 hours but I was going slow. Window works again. Used Dorman part 748-228. It’s slightly slower than stock but I’m happy I saved money doing it myself.

EDIT: I had to take the door panel off again this morning because I had a rattle in the door. It ended up being the little white clip retainer that holds the cable to the actuator. Dorman drilled the hole too big so the plastic clip was moving around. I ziptied the cable to the actuator bracket. No more rattle. Be sure to check this before you install. Cheers!

 

[mwilson62000]

P0449 Evap code popped up Sunday. Cleared, but would come back on every startup. Figured it might be vent solenoid under by the gas tank. Got lazy and with a lot going on, took it to mechanic. 3 hours later. Fixed.

 

[latvius]

P0449 Evap code popped up Sunday. Cleared, but would come back on every startup. Figured it might be vent solenoid under by the gas tank. Got lazy and with a lot going on, took it to mechanic. 3 hours later. Fixed.

What did they replace?

 

[mwilson62000]

What did they replace?

The evap vent solenoid under the truck by the gas tank.

 

[latvius]

My a/c blower was making a womp womp noise like a helicopter and driving me nuts. I replaced the blower and it wasn't it so I replaced the resistor, this time I went ahead and got the one you splice in since I have replaced the other kind multiple times as they don't last. Watched a video on removing the terminals of the connector instead of splicing and thought that would look cleaner.
First off was a real PITA getting those connectors apart and getting the terminals out. They may come apart but I don't think they were made too. Once I get it together I find out something went wrong with the signal wire as it was not getting voltage to turn on the fan. Had to run to the parts store to buy another resistor just to get the wire harness (I didn't want to wait for shipping a wire harness to me).
All is well now but I will never try that again.

 

[Aquamania001]

New front and rear diff fluids and the transfer case fluid. Winter is around the corner.

 

[mattbta]

Front windows tinted with 30% ceramic. Not sure why this is the first time in 20 years of ownership....

Cerakote applied to running boards and front bumper. Will do rear bumper and door panels another day. Maybe windscreen cowl?

 

[romakdaddy]

It wasn't exactly today...more like the last few months but here goes. BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

[ivin74]

My a/c blower was making a womp womp noise like a helicopter and driving me nuts. I replaced the blower and it wasn't it so I replaced the resistor, this time I went ahead and got the one you splice in since I have replaced the other kind multiple times as they don't last. Watched a video on removing the terminals of the connector instead of splicing and thought that would look cleaner.
First off was a real PITA getting those connectors apart and getting the terminals out. They may come apart but I don't think they were made too. Once I get it together I find out something went wrong with the signal wire as it was not getting voltage to turn on the fan. Had to run to the parts store to buy another resistor just to get the wire harness (I didn't want to wait for shipping a wire harness to me).
All is well now but I will never try that again.

View attachment 441093

What does the resistor do?