Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Got a picture of the headliner?Got rid of the shale color headliner that gm loves to use. So the headliner accessories couldn't be left that color
Not even breaking a sweatI towed a Chrysler LeBaron today. Overseas and in need, American vehicles must help each other....![]()
This is the Tahoe from the other night I'll get the suburban tomorrow in the daylightGot a picture of the headliner?
What type of paint did you paint those with?Got rid of the shale color headliner that gm loves to use. So the headliner accessories couldn't be left that color
This reminds me of a 1985 Oldsmobile 98 that I once had. Something was messed up with the starter circuit, it wasn't enough current to actually engage the starter for some reason. I routinely had to reach under the car and jump the starter with a screwdriver after turning the ign switch to the run position. I got tired of doing that so I wired a pushbutton to start it. A few months later, I ended up rewiring it again because I was getting annoyed having to use the button to engage the starter. Since the ign actually did work in the Start position (just REALLY low current for some reason) I ended up wiring a relay in place of the pushbutton, with the ignition switch triggering the relay. So after all that, it actually functioned like factory again.I did something similar in my brother's car in high school. I used a switch from a higher-optioned model to replace a blank so it appeared factory-original and was hidden in plain sight. The switch was originally a push on/push off style. I took it apart to remove the latching part to make it momentary.
The car was a '93 Sundance, so this wasn't for anti-theft. The ignition switch was jacked up so this was my free/Saturday afternoon solution. Turn the key to "on" and press the secret switch.
Looks great! Nice Tahoe!Like @Rocket Man I tried several different methods (including plasti dip) and nothing held up. Four years ago, I had a body shop I use on a regular basis treat and paint both front and back to eliminate the chrome. Still holding up and looks great today. Sometimes it is worth to have someone else do the work.View attachment 393960
Fresh oil makes a 5.3 happy!
Oil and filter yesterday. NAPA gold 1042 (by WIX Part # 51042), NAPA synthetic blend 6qts. 5W-30 (by Valvoline Part #: 75055) for $45.
Checked fluids. Added a little coolant (it might have burped another air bubble after replacing my T fitting this past summer).
Runs great!!!
View attachment 394163
More filter power?You can use the longer Wix filter 51522 (Napa 1522) also.
More filter power?
Since the shutdown, when I replaced my cracked heads, I’ve never been able to get the Evap monitor to complete. I do not drive much but do some research when I’m bored. Watched this good South Main vid last night and thought I’d check the delta of IAT and ECT.
Plugged in the elm and loaded up Torque. To my surprise, the evap monitor was complete! Oddly, there is a 12* delta this morning after having sat overnight. When I did the heads I put a new ECT on and fairly sure I used a Delco, but Summit purges their order history from the site. I’ll leave it be for now.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
That video was interesting to me, too, for the fact that two aftermarket ECTs (and the original) were far enough off to keep the evap monitors from running. Mine runs the evap monitor fine but out of curiosity I'm going to compare my cold temps one day soon.
I'm thinking about putting an old cell phone in the Hoe and just leaving it there with Torque Pro on it. The tablet I have is nice but awful large to haul around and get in a good position to view. Need to look for a cell phone mount, I guess.
Nay. Allow me to spend your money for you. Get a Pioneer head unit, something like the NEX series and the iDatalink Maestro.
What type of paint did you paint those with?
After my oil change yesterday, I decided to pull out the Tech 2 to reset the oil life monitor instead of doing the ignition/gas pedal thing...
It worked fine, except I was a little annoyed that it was not a one button push operation to reset the oil life. The hot button on the bottom of the Tech 2 screen says "Reset".
But the Tech 2 required entry of the %. So you have to type in 100, then hit the reset hot button on the Tech 2.
If I was looking to use a reset oil lifespan button to reset, I would expect I would want it reset to 100% and not have to enter the numbers in. To me, reset means reset.
Not sure why anyone would want to reset oil lifespan to anything less than 100%, but OK...
Maybe that is for when you just did an oil change last month then swapped an engine, but the oil in the new engine was already down to 50% when you swapped it in? Reset from 98% to 50%? I guess.
Was not hard using the Tech 2 for this. Just thought it was odd that a a percentage number had to be entered.
Nice try, but no bueno. Looking at Crutchfield the iDatalink Maestro doesn't work for my model year.
View attachment 394176