Welp broke something serious

[wsteele]

I wonder which one would be best for a blown and cammed 6.0 AWD. I think I went through the deciding process a couple years back and decided on the Detroit Locker but I’m not sure now. I installed a girdle on mine to reinforce the bearing caps to help with one of the common failures.

I wouldn’t think any of the the Eaton diffs are going to break.

Maybe the electronic locker would be the way to go. Flip the switch, get it on.

I think the other bits in the third member are the ones that are going to break from too much of a good thing.

 

[iamdub]

Ok so it sounds like I should replace it soon then. I have never done it, can't be harder than a diff right? A day or less?

Yeah I do like it, feels more like a car now. When you get on it around a turn you can feel both tires getting some power and it can get kicked around much easier, which I actually like lol.

One very minor nitpick is when doing slow turns through the parking lot you can feel/hear the tires scrubbing just a little bit.

Replacing the fuel pump module? Definitely easier than a rear diff swap. Just run the tank as low as possible. If yours is having the same failure as mine, run it to 1/4 and maybe a little lower. Try a WOT launch from a stop and see if it falls flat. If so, she's "ripe for the taking". I have a lift and can have the tank down in half an hour. On your back, I'd say it's easily twice that time. Between tank removal, cleaning, swapping the pump module and reinstalling, I'd say to bank on six hours if you're not really rushing it.




All as expected. The only alternative is to get another clutch-style diff, but then you'd just be back to "par", and waiting for the clutches to wear, back to mostly one-wheel-drive, etc. I'd take a little scrubbing as a worthy compromise to having a ticking time bomb blow up when you need it most, if not just randomly.

 

[iamdub]

Ignore. Just found that you can no longer reply to pieces of a post.

 

[iamdub]

That’s awesome! I’ve been thinking that when my gov- bomb goes I’ll get a Detroit Trutrack locker but I’ve always been concerned I’ll **** it up. Maybe I have a chance after all!

Unless the install is REALLY bad, you won't have any premature wear or failure for quite a while. It's not difficult work, just tedious and precise and requires lots of re-doing.

 

[iamdub]

Good breakdown here. Seems for daily driving, the truetrac is the choice. Weekend drag car/cruiser, the locker could take the edge there.

Locking Vs. Limited Slip: We Look At Four Eaton Differentials

We look at four of Eaton's differentials, and determine that the best way to choose which will work for you is to figure out where you need it the most.

www.streetmusclemag.com

With a family-hauler on a wet road, a locker could quickly get you in trouble in a turn.

 

[Rocket Man]

With a family-hauler on a wet road, a locker could quickly get you in trouble in a turn.

I think that’s what I had in my R/T Dakota with a built 5.9. Or it might have been a solid diff. Either way that rear end snapped out from under me several times, it loved to do 360’s. Worst one was 4-5 360’s across 4 lanes of a freeway during a wet morning commute and collided with the Jersey barrier, ended up facing the wrong way. Just punched it and did a 180 in one lane and kept going to the next off ramp where I promptly called the boss and told him I wasn’t going to make it in to work.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wouldn’t think any of the the Eaton diffs are going to break.

Maybe the electronic locker would be the way to go. Flip the switch, get it on.

I think the other bits in the third member are the ones that are going to break from too much of a good thing.

I wouldn’t worry about the Eaton breaking, I would want the one that hooks up best. Mine does really good at that right now. Also I wouldn’t want any electronics, just like it is now. The AWD systems on this year are super reliable and that’s partly because there’s zero electronics, just the viscous coupling in the transfer case. It’s why @randeez retrofitted a TC out of one of these in his race truck.

 

[wsteele]

I wouldn’t worry about the Eaton breaking, I would want the one that hooks up best. Mine does really good at that right now. Also I wouldn’t want any electronics, just like it is now. The AWD systems on this year are super reliable and that’s partly because there’s zero electronics, just the viscous coupling in the transfer case. It’s why @randeez retrofitted a TC out of one of these in his race truck.

Sounds like you know what you want after all.

 

[iamdub]

I think that’s what I had in my R/T Dakota with a built 5.9. Or it might have been a solid diff. Either way that rear end snapped out from under me several times, it loved to do 360’s. Worst one was 4-5 360’s across 4 lanes of a freeway during a wet morning commute and collided with the Jersey barrier, ended up facing the wrong way. Just punched it and did a 180 in one lane and kept going to the next off ramp where I promptly called the boss and told him I wasn’t going to make it in to work.

Buddy of mine had a '00 R/T ex-cab. It was a factory-modded demo that wasn't supposed to have been sold, but he had cash in hand and bought it straight off the carrier trailer. Bone stock, it would pull FBO single cab R/Ts. The rear end was howling by 30K miles. Them engines were rock solid, but everything around them quickly fell apart.

 

[Rocket Man]

Buddy of mine had a '00 R/T ex-cab. It was a factory-modded demo that wasn't supposed to have been sold, but he had cash in hand and bought it straight off the carrier trailer. Bone stock, it would pull FBO single cab R/Ts. The rear end was howling by 30K miles. Them engines were rock solid, but everything around them quickly fell apart.

I bought mine off a dealer lot. No R/T decals and no flares so it might have been wrecked at one point. I know I wrecked it 3 times- it would accelerate way better than it stopped. I could drift on a straight stretch of a wet freeway just by punching it. But I knew whoever owned it built the motor, it had a cam for sure and longtubes with full stainless exhaust. Not sure what else was done, I didn’t have any records. It was just plain scary to drive- dangerous enough on dry roads and plain scary on wet ones.

 

[Rocket Man]

Sounds like you know what you want after all.

Not really- just either the TrueTrack or the locker…

 

[wsteele]

Not really- just either the TrueTrack or the locker…

I think it really gets down to what you will be spending the most time doing and how important each thing is to you. Everyone is different as far as what is really important to them and what doesn't bother them with their "daily driver." For what I do, no way a Detroit Locker makes sense. Even a Truetrac is going to be "there" when I am driving around town. Maybe fine, but I am willing to admit, I might regret it, because I do think I will likely know it is there.

We use our trucks for very different things, but to me, an open diff is like all season tires on the interstate doing 80, just about perfect. When I go up and find some rocky/muddy forest road that is much worse than I expected, being able to turn that open diff into a locker at the flip of a switch is pretty darn nice. On the other hand, while pretty limited as far as the "electronics complexity" is concerned, it is still more complexity and there is always that pesky hole in the dash for the switch.

So maybe Truetrac is a good compromise for me, just like the G80 is an OK compromise as a factory option. There is no doubt there is a reason Eaton offers the Locker, Elocker, Truetrac and the Posi options, because everyone has different priorities.

 

[ls1frc]

I notice zero difference with the truetrac. You don't feel it unless you give a little throttle on turns, then you'll screech the tires a bit.

 

[ls1frc]

Next thing I gotta figure out is why my ABS activates when braking in reverse down my steep driveway. Braking at normal speeds works fine.

 

[wsteele]

Next thing I gotta figure out is why my ABS activates when braking in reverse down my steep driveway. Braking at normal speeds works fine.

I think the Truetrac works in both reverse and forward gears, maybe the torque bias is screwing with the sensors.

 

[wsteele]

The only experience I have had with a Torsen style diff was a race car I ran. We installed it to see if it would allow us to enhance grip coming out of corners (road racing).

The first half of the test day after we got it installed, I really didn't like how it felt, transitions seemed much more indefinite. In the second half of the day we started taking times and after we made a few spring and sway bar adjustments, I turned the fastest lap I ever did with that car on that track.

 

[ls1frc]

I think the Truetrac works in both reverse and forward gears, maybe the torque bias is screwing with the sensors.

Nah was doing this before the trutrac.

 

[wsteele]

Nah was doing this before the trutrac.

That sounds like a good thing. Well a good bad thing.

 

[89Suburban]

Ignore. Just found that you can no longer reply to pieces of a post.

You can, it just doesn't highlight when you go to drag your mouse and delete unwanted characters. You have to picture it in your mind. Something that needs fixed for sure.

 

[iamdub]

You can, it just doesn't highlight when you go to drag your mouse and delete unwanted characters. You have to picture it in your mind. Something that needs fixed for sure.

I've realized and been trying to make peace with that. But, what I've always done is to copy/paste the quoted message however many times necessary, then deleted the points I wasn't replying to in each one. Without being able to copy the "

member12345...

stuff, I don't know what it's gonna show. Maybe I'll mess around in a junk forum. Pete @PG01 and Nate @HiHoeSilver are in for a surprise if they ever stop by.