Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[Geotrash]

Thanks for all of this info!

So, I don't remember O2 sensor changes yet - I believe they are original and now with 180K miles, should I avoid the E85?

Had no idea there was a hoist for the spare...now you can see the extent of my knowledge...but I'm learning!

I'll try the brake test this weekend to check the mount.

You're receiving fantastic advice from some of the most knowledgeable people on these trucks anywhere. I have two Yukon XL Denali's - an '07 with 239K and a '12 with 138K. I wouldn't hesitate to drive either of them to Alaska and back. I can't stress enough how important preventative maintenance is for peace of mind on the road.

I second everyone else's advice to replace all of the cooling system hoses, and belts. You might also want to get the front end in the air to check the wheel bearings, tire rod ends and ball joints for any play. Hands at 3 and 9 o'clock to rock back and forth to check for tie rod ends and ball joints. Hands at 12 and 6 o'clock for front wheel bearings and ball joints.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks for all of this info!

So, I don't remember O2 sensor changes yet - I believe they are original and now with 180K miles, should I avoid the E85?

Had no idea there was a hoist for the spare...now you can see the extent of my knowledge...but I'm learning!

I'll try the brake test this weekend to check the mount.

Yes, older sensors may not calculate the ethanol content correctly, even if they don't throw a code.

Pull out your owner's manual this weekend and see if the bottle jack and hoist still work.

 

[iamdub]

Had no idea there was a hoist for the spare...now you can see the extent of my knowledge...but I'm learning!

Yes, older sensors may not calculate the ethanol content correctly, even if they don't throw a code.

Pull out your owner's manual this weekend and see if the bottle jack and hoist still work.

@bobby2175, take clear pics of how the jack and all are arranged and secured before you remove them for testing. You're welcome.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you decide to change out the coolant Tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the insulation on the firewall is quite aggressive, and you'll be itching for a few days.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have not regularly cleaned the intake or throttle body - it's probably been about 80K-100K miles. You mentioned clean MAF before - what was this?

Also, is fuel injector cleaner the best way (meaning will accomplish the job and not damage anything) or is one of the induction cleaning services like offered at the dealer better? I actually have some older bottles of injector cleaner I can use as long as they don't degrade after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is the process for those to put injector cleaner in (I'm assuming would need 2 bottles) while filling tank, let the tank run until low and then repeat, or do I run it low, then add the bottle and when I get really low, add a little fuel and then another bottle?

injector cleaner won't hurt anything, a fuel injection service would be better if you have not already been putting cleaner in from time to time. the service should be $80-100 and they connect a adapter right to the fuel rail and run a special cleaner into the injectors, this is usually separate from a induction service.
a induction service may "say" injector cleaning but usually that just means they add some injector cleaner into the gas tank, you will want to "clarify" that wherever you have it done.

 

[swathdiver]

...they connect a adapter right to the fuel rail and run a special cleaner into the injectors,

Echlin from Napa.

 

[bobby2175]

Thanks, everyone! What do you think about replacing the water pump while I'm changing out the hoses and going to be knee deep into it anyways? It is original - or should I not worry about it?

Also, pretty much everything is original - starter, pumps, etc. I've had no major issues other than this electrical issue which I've almost completely sorted out. Should I proactively change anything else out?

 

[iamdub]

Thanks, everyone! What do you think about replacing the water pump while I'm changing out the hoses and going to be knee deep into it anyways? It is original - or should I not worry about it?

Also, pretty much everything is original - starter, pumps, etc. I've had no major issues other than this electrical issue which I've almost completely sorted out. Should I proactively change anything else out?

For the most part, these items will give warnings of impending failure. You are at the age (mileage) where things will start showing their wear. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the water pump unless it's weeping or the starter unless it's acting up. I have a tool set I bring with me on the road that should cover anything repairable on the road. A starter and water pump are easy enough to replace in a parking lot should they suddenly fail. If it brings YOU peace of mind, changing the water pump now can be justified since it is 180K old and you'll have the coolant system opened up. In the least, it'd save you from having to refill and purge the system more than once. I've never had an issue but some people seem to fight theirs. In contrast, I'm at 225K and am still on the original water pump, starter and power steering pump. I spin mine to 6,000+ almost every time I drive it and road trip it whenever I please. The alternator was original and replaced recently only to upgrade for a sound system.

For the road, I have this HART 215-piece tool kit. I like it cuz the quality seems more than "good enough" and it's quiet. I even added two sets of ratcheting wrenches in the bottom drawer and I don't hear them. I also carry a small canvas electrician's bag with electrical items- Super 33+ tape, digital multi-meter, strippers, crimpers, fuses, splice connectors, etc. I have mechanic's gloves and heavy duty jumper cables stored with the factory jack tools. The gloves can be really handy (pun intended) when working around a hot engine. Also an LED flashlight in the center console.

 

[bobby2175]

For the most part, these items will give warnings of impending failure. You are at the age (mileage) where things will start showing their wear. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the water pump unless it's weeping or the starter unless it's acting up. I have a tool set I bring with me on the road that should cover anything repairable on the road. A starter and water pump are easy enough to replace in a parking lot should they suddenly fail. If it brings YOU peace of mind, changing the water pump now can be justified since it is 180K old and you'll have the coolant system opened up. In the least, it'd save you from having to refill and purge the system more than once. I've never had an issue but some people seem to fight theirs. In contrast, I'm at 225K and am still on the original water pump, starter and power steering pump. I spin mine to 6,000+ almost every time I drive it and road trip it whenever I please. The alternator was original and replaced recently only to upgrade for a sound system.

For the road, I have this HART 215-piece tool kit. I like it cuz the quality seems more than "good enough" and it's quiet. I even added two sets of ratcheting wrenches in the bottom drawer and I don't hear them. I also carry a small canvas electrician's bag with electrical items- Super 33+ tape, digital multi-meter, strippers, crimpers, fuses, splice connectors, etc. I have mechanic's gloves and heavy duty jumper cables stored with the factory jack tools. The gloves can be really handy (pun intended) when working around a hot engine. Also an LED flashlight in the center console.

Thank you so much - incredible info and exactly what I was looking for! I really wasn't sure how long these things would last, but that gives me some confidence that you're up to 225K. I think I'll just leave it then and see how it goes.

I'm planning on putting together a tool kit to take with me and I really didn't know where to start, so this is great! Anything else you think I should take with me? Any recommendations on a good OBD scanner - as I'm starting to now do my own vehicle repairs, I feel like I need to get something good to go across 3 cars.

One question on the heater hoses - should I also replace the hose that goes to the radiator?

Also, what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Last question on this one - how much time do you think I should set aside to do the heater hoses swap for a total rookie? I'm traveling for work the next two weeks, so I'm trying to squeeze it in between flights and want to make sure I can do it right!

 

[Geotrash]

Thank you so much - incredible info and exactly what I was looking for! I really wasn't sure how long these things would last, but that gives me some confidence that you're up to 225K. I think I'll just leave it then and see how it goes.

I'm planning on putting together a tool kit to take with me and I really didn't know where to start, so this is great! Anything else you think I should take with me? Any recommendations on a good OBD scanner - as I'm starting to now do my own vehicle repairs, I feel like I need to get something good to go across 3 cars.

One question on the heater hoses - should I also replace the hose that goes to the radiator?

Also, what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Last question on this one - how much time do you think I should set aside to do the heater hoses swap for a total rookie? I'm traveling for work the next two weeks, so I'm trying to squeeze it in between flights and want to make sure I can do it right!

I'm going to take a little different stance on the water pump. You already have the coolant out of the system and everything else out of the way, so why not just change it and eliminate it from the list of things that will get you stuck somewhere? It's an easy job and you can buy one with the thermostat housing and thermostat already installed. It might add 15 minutes to the job you're already doing.

 

[bobby2175]

I'm going to take a little different stance on the water pump. You already have the coolant out of the system and everything else out of the way, so why not just change it and eliminate it from the list of things that will get you stuck somewhere? It's an easy job and you can buy one with the thermostat housing and thermostat already installed. It might add 15 minutes to the job you're already doing.

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

 

[ctd01]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4NRY8

 

[ctd01]

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

No good water pump is $100. I would spend a little more and get an acdelco. Do not use any dorman parts during this pretrip. Try and stick with or if possible.

 

[swathdiver]

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Pull the lower hose and let it drain out. Refill with distilled water, drive it around the block and drain it again. Repeat until the water comes out clear. Then refill with 50/50 dexcool. Drive it again and top it off as needed. Last time we did it, we added 3 quarts, 3 separate times to top it off.

 

[bobby2175]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4N

I'm going to take a little different stance on the water pump. You already have the coolant out of the system and everything else out of the way, so why not just change it and eliminate it from the list of things that will get you stuck somewhere? It's an easy job and you can buy one with the thermostat housing and thermostat already installed. It might add 15 minutes to the job you're already doing.

Ok, is this the right video to follow?

This doesn't seem too difficult, but where I was a little uncomfortable was how to remove and reinstall the belt - is this the right process - 15 mm wrench on the adjuater to put some slack on the belt and remove it?

 

[bobby2175]

To burp cooling system fill it to the seam in the tank and start it up with the heat on. Let it run until it comes up to temp. You may have to fill it along the way. Don't over fill it tho because coolant expands when it gets hot. Once the car has heat and coolant temp reaches normal temp for a bit you can shut it down and cap it. I usually let them sit a while with cap off and top off as needed. You can always do that step next day if needed. Just don't open it hot. Never reuse a squeeze clamp while changing hoses.

I'm a nut when it comes to newing stuff out before a trip. I guess that's what years of seeing failures does to you. I just had a customer with 07 Silverado take a 7500 mile trip flawlessly towing a camper. He brought it to me before he went.
My recommendations: like said by other posts, fluids and that means all of them. Water pump, tstat, belts, hoses, t's. Check the steering and suspension. Meaning ball joints , control arms, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, bushings. Tune up. Plugs, wires and air filter. Look at the underside. Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank straps. Take a peak at the radiator. I had 3 in a week that developed small cracks in the plastic tanks. I'll post a link to my truck I think it's in the last pic. Check the brake pad and rotor condition. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines. Do all the lights work. Make sure that spare comes down and has no dry rot. Check for exhaust leaks. Broken manifold bolts. Another thing is to check the Vlom bolts. I have had a ton of these in with loose Vlom bolts. Check your parking brake. While belts are off spin all the pulleys and make sure no noises come from them. Should be smooth and quiet. couldn't hurt to buy a code reader and a spare coil to take with you as well. Here are some pics of mine. Scroll down a ways and you'll see the rad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/11ZxEvt7nnnm4NRY8

Great information! I'm going to likely have questions as I work through all of this! Thank you!

 

[bobby2175]

Pull the lower hose and let it drain out. Refill with distilled water, drive it around the block and drain it again. Repeat until the water comes out clear. Then refill with 50/50 dexcool. Drive it again and top it off as needed. Last time we did it, we added 3 quarts, 3 separate times to top it off.

Thanks for being so clear on this!

 

[Geotrash]

Ok, is this the right video to follow?

This doesn't seem too difficult, but where I was a little uncomfortable was how to remove and reinstall the belt - is this the right process - 15 mm wrench on the adjuater to put some slack on the belt and remove it?

That's the one!

 

[Geotrash]

Yes, makes sense and I was debating it myself. If I looked up the part properly, it's only $100 and probably makes sense just to do it all at the same time.

Rock Auto has the AC Delco pump cheap, but I have also used Gates, Dayco and Melling water pumps in the past with great results. Melling is one of the OEM suppliers of pumps to GM. Remember to buy the thermostat if your pump doesn't come with one. Replacing the thermostat housing at the same time can also help prevent leaks, and many thermostats and pumps come with a new housing for that reason.

what is the best way to make sure I get all of the coolant out of the system first, make sure I get the air out, etc? I see conflicting videos - some say to keep the reservoir cap off and keep refilling, other people say don't do that?!? What's the best way to refill properly with new coolant?

Everyone has their own approach that works for them, so I can only share what I do that works well for me. I don't worry so much about getting every drop of coolant out of the system. 95%+ of the old stuff drains out the moment you remove the lower radiator hose. So when I'm done closing everything up after repairs, I simply refill the system through the recovery tank with 50/50 dexcool premix, leave the cap off, start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature, adding coolant premix as needed to keep the tank from going empty. Once the engine is up to temp, I shut it off and refill the tank to the full line, then put the cap back on and take it for a drive. Then let it cool and add coolant back to the full line. Then I check it every day for a few days before I start it in the morning, adding coolant as needed. When I do it this way, I very seldom have to add any coolant after the first drive cycle, and even then it's only a few ounces. I've done this probably 10 times on my Yukons after various modifications and repairs, with no problems.

 

[bobby2175]

That's the one!

Thank you! Should I also be replacing the radiator hose at the same time or just stick with the hoses that go up to the heater core?