[Update 8/23] 04 Suburban 1500 - SOLD

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Tonyrodz

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Anyways, quite a lot has happened with this truck in the last 24H!

It started out with installing a new Idler Pulley.

Here's a crappy little Windows Movie Maker Video I put together if anyone cares about it lol


then, I had initially told myself I wouldn't do audio in this vehicle, and I was gonna keep it small.....

but some stuff popped up that I couldn't pass up!

so, I took the new suburban on her first real maiden voyage, 800 some miles round trip from Grand Rapids, Michigan to Lewisport Kentucky.

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I learned and reinforced some ideas about the truck

1) My speedometer randomly decides to work or not
2) My driver side, 2nd row window no longer rolls down
3) My A/C stopped working
4) My rear doors were filled with water

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but I made the trip, about 7 hours each way, and picked up some goodies

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Custom doors that'll hold 20 of the American Bass 8" Neo Speakers, 3 American Bass 4 channels, and 6 American Bass mono-blocks.

Also not pictured are some A-Pillars that each hold 4 full-range 4" speakers.

Shortly after that I ordered 200 square feet of deadener, so I should have quite a few projects with this truck moving forward:D
How were the other gauges on the cluster? Might just need a stepper motor, or just in case, a full rebuilt cluster. Have power going to the window regulator? They're easy to replace, and not very expensive. Better for the window to be stuck closed then open. You might just have dirt/debris in the rear door that just clogged the drain hole. Easy enough to clean out with something. Your video isn't showing.
 
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Galandorian

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How were the other gauges on the cluster? Might just need a stepper motor, or just in case, a full rebuilt cluster. Have power going to the window regulator? They're easy to replace, and not very expensive. Better for the window to be stuck closed then open. You might just have dirt/debris in the rear door that just clogged the drain hole. Easy enough to clean out with something. Your video isn't showing.

All the other gauges seem to work fine, I believe it's just a stepper motor.

Eventually I'll get around to it.

Haven't really diagnosed the window problem to see if it's a switch issue or motor. Either way, I've replaced those in the past too.

The nice thing about these Chevy's, is that between myself and my dad we can pretty much take care of any issue known to man with them :p

I don't know why the video isn't working, I see it fine on my end
 

Tonyrodz

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Nothing.
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Galandorian

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Got my head unit in, exhaust on, and started painting the Z71 rack.

Head Unit install was a breeze in these '04 - '06 vehicles, cus they actually are meant for double dins.

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Look at all that room, and how neat and tidy the OEM wires are!

Still had to dremel out some of the back area though to fit my big ass head unit, but it was much easier than removing an entire bracing piece like I had to do in the Tahoe.

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Used a $20 double din kit that came with a harness so I just had to wire nut some stuff.

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Nice and clean ;)

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The junkyard rack was pretty weathered, so I hit it with the ole rustoleum paint + primer combo.

it started raining before I finished, so I don't have a good after picture yet. should hopefully have it installed today

here was a good candid picture of the truck last night at my friend's house

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I'll try to get some exhaust videos soon.

Had the Flowmaster Delta 50 on my Tahoe, and went with the more aggressive 40 series for this truck, and I LOVE it.

A nice little growl during initial acceleration, very aggressive during WOT, but almost non-noticeable at 1800 RPM @ 55 MPH.

haven't really driven on the highway yet, but I'm about to make a 6 hour round trip to Ohio to sell my old door panels, so I'll see if there's a highway drone or not.
 

Tonyrodz

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Got my head unit in, exhaust on, and started painting the Z71 rack.

Head Unit install was a breeze in these '04 - '06 vehicles, cus they actually are meant for double dins.

View attachment 199741

Look at all that room, and how neat and tidy the OEM wires are!

Still had to dremel out some of the back area though to fit my big ass head unit, but it was much easier than removing an entire bracing piece like I had to do in the Tahoe.

View attachment 199742

Used a $20 double din kit that came with a harness so I just had to wire nut some stuff.

View attachment 199744

Nice and clean ;)

View attachment 199746

The junkyard rack was pretty weathered, so I hit it with the ole rustoleum paint + primer combo.

it started raining before I finished, so I don't have a good after picture yet. should hopefully have it installed today

here was a good candid picture of the truck last night at my friend's house

View attachment 199745

I'll try to get some exhaust videos soon.

Had the Flowmaster Delta 50 on my Tahoe, and went with the more aggressive 40 series for this truck, and I LOVE it.

A nice little growl during initial acceleration, very aggressive during WOT, but almost non-noticeable at 1800 RPM @ 55 MPH.

haven't really driven on the highway yet, but I'm about to make a 6 hour round trip to Ohio to sell my old door panels, so I'll see if there's a highway drone or not.
Love your road trips. On my 03 I had to remove that steel brace to fit my DD. What a ***** that was. Sharp metal too.
 
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Galandorian

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Love your road trips. On my 03 I had to remove that steel brace to fit my DD. What a ***** that was. Sharp metal too.

Haha yep. Put 2,600 miles on the vehicle since I got it 2 weeks ago.

Might be driving to Indiana tomorrow to buy a squarebody Tahoe walled with 8 15s...

if that falls through, I might go to Missouri to buy some other stuff :cool:

it's nice having a reliable vehicle that I can just take anywhere, plus enough room that I can just pull off in rest areas and sleep in the back
 

05Single

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Damn those door panels are beast!!

Where you buy your sound deadener at ?

Look up posi-lock connectors for your next head unit install. Those twist taps scare me.
 
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Galandorian

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Damn those door panels are beast!!

Where you buy your sound deadener at ?

Look up posi-lock connectors for your next head unit install. Those twist taps scare me.

I dropped like $500 on Second Skin Damplifier (B-Stock) as it's what I've always used.

Talking with other people though, this Noico 80Mil from Amazon looks just about the same thing, for like 30% or more cheaper (not good at math)

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deaden...64789&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=noico+80mil&psc=1

Never heard of Posi-Lock before, but just bought a bunch ;) I gotta tear back into the head unit soon anyways to hook up the new doors and pillars

I haven't had any issues with the wire nuts in the past, but I know a lot of people dislike them
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Got my Z71 rack on today ;) LOOOVVEEE the look. Easily my favorite cosmetic mod after tint.

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Galandorian

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Finally cleaned out the garage enough to be able to fit my vehicle in between both stalls so I could start deadening.

Started with about 280 square feet, so far I spent about 5 hours and have one door done.

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I have to make a run to the junkyard and find two of those heated seat switches, since these door panels have the placement for them, but my vehicle doesn't actually have heated seats.

The doors also required some cutting of metal in the window area, and some screws to be drilled in which took a bit of time.



I am SUPER impressed with how loud and clear these mids are for being on just head unit power (7w RMS per speaker).

To think, this is only 2 speakers out of 20!

And they'll also be on like 5x more power atleast by the time we're done...
 
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05Single

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Sounds great . Can't wait for the finish line on this build.
I say just glue a piece of abs plastic in place of that heated seat switch. Can add a design there or even some small 1" dome tweeters
 
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Galandorian

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Sounds great . Can't wait for the finish line on this build.
I say just glue a piece of abs plastic in place of that heated seat switch. Can add a design there or even some small 1" dome tweeters

I'm just gonna find the actual heated seat button. Then it'll look as OEM as possible, and I'll wait and see how many of my friends can't figure out why their heated seats don't work xd

Got the rear doors done tonight, but as usual, too late to test anything.

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Tomorrow is an all day beach day with friends and family, so it'll probably be a few days before any more updates.

Copped a used 320A alt the other day.

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Blue alt, red intake. Gonna be a whole bunch of America in my engine compartment:D
 
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Galandorian

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Haha you'e that friend. I 've trolling my friends too.
"Hey man your heated seat doesn't work"
"Dood you broke it"!!!

and now we wait, hehe.

too bad winter is like 6 months away

finally got a little video of the doors playing on just head unit power.

didn't seem that loud in person, so I cut it short, but in the video they seem okay


also thinking about getting another layer of 20% tint on top of my 5% on the front windows, because in certain lighting you can see through the window

IMG_0870.JPG


it's been like 95 with rain and awful humidity lately, but the next few days should be 70 degrees and dry so hopefully I can start working on some wiring
 
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Galandorian

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Managed to do about 80% of my wiring today. I had many mistakes along the way that slowed down the process.

1) I wired all 20 of my door speakers incorrectly, so instead of 4 ohm loads on the front doors and 2.67 on the rear, I was reading like 0.7 on the DMM. Had to remove about half the speakers to fix it.

2) Pioneer Head Units have a blue striped wire called a "remote relay switch", which I read could be used as a 12v switchable to run to amps, but for some reason mine didn't work. So I had already put the dash back together and had to pull it apart.

So far I just did one run of 2/0 under the vehicle and popped up behind the 2nd row.

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I'll probably need a 2nd run down the line, but I REALLY REALLY wanted to get my door speakers on some real power XD

Here's some pictures of my wiring mess

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I had to run a total of 8 sets of wires:

1) Voltmeter (3 wires, one to 12v switchable, then a positive and negative to my rear amp)
2) Backup camera (4 wires, power, ground, 12v switchable, and one wire to the head unit itself)
3) Positive / Negative wire for 20 speakers @ 1.14 ohm load
4) Positive / Negative wires for left pillar @ 2 ohms
5) Positive / Negative wires for right pillar @ 2 ohms
6) Highs RCA
7) Mids RCA
8) USB wire from head unit to under the glovebox

I took all of them through the trim pieces on the right side of the vehicle, like I did in the Tahoe. Didn't take pictures though.

Someday I'll have to go back in and add the 3rd RCA for subwoofer.

And then right as it was getting dark I had my temporary test bench setup!

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Always keep a fire extinguisher in these cars, especially when running Brazilian amps, since I've personally had 3 of them set on fire during use.

Got to play like 30 seconds of one song and man these doors are loud.

Tomorrow I'll run the wires for my A-Pillars, make some mounts for the amps, clean up my wire mess, setup my backup camera, etc.
 
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Galandorian

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It didn't occur to me that some people haven't followed the Tahoe build, or that all the stuff I know about these vehicles might not be known by others, so I haven't really taken any time for descriptions of pictures of the intermediary processes.

That being said, if anyone wants help or has questions about what I've done, feel free to post or shoot me a message!

Our family has tons of these vehicles and most of the stuff I've done on multiple of them.

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1 Taramps DSP 3000 for the 20 door speakers @ 1.14 ohms
1 Taramps 400x4 channel for the 8 pillar speakers @ 4 ohms bridged

Wire management never has been and probably never will be my forte, plus I'll always have those little flaps covering it all.

This Suburban is SOOOO much better than the Tahoe for hiding amps.

Because of the long-body style and the seat brackets being one solid piece of even ground (as opposed to the Tahoe seats, which straddle from one level to another) there's plenty of room for amps to sit, and the seats to fold down completely.

I used to hate having my amps under the seat in the Tahoe, because it meant the seats never fully folded down, and even at their best folded position, the seats pushed down ******* the amps.

In this vehicle, no matter what position the seats are, none of the amps get touched.

One fuse block right there by the amps, and one by the battery up front.

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Backup camera installed, same location as before, with wires ran up under the trim of the right side of the vehicle.

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Voltmeter installed as well. Stock alt and no 3 big wire upgrade, so voltage sucks xd
 
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Galandorian

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And since I've never really taken some pictures of the Pillars, here they are.

Custom fiberglass with 8 total 3" full range speakers. (Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver)

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They are fantastic for sound quality! Definitely my favorite part about the setup currently.

And what everyone has been waiting for - videos!

R&B -

Rock -

EDM -
 

Tonyrodz

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And since I've never really taken some pictures of the Pillars, here they are.

Custom fiberglass with 8 total 3" full range speakers. (Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver)

View attachment 200724
View attachment 200725
View attachment 200726

They are fantastic for sound quality! Definitely my favorite part about the setup currently.

And what everyone has been waiting for - videos!

R&B -

Rock -

EDM -
Sounds amazing in the videos, I cam't even imagine in person. Great job.
 

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