Truck Wont Move

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BigRedChevyBaby

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I Have A 2008 Chevy Tahoe LT And Recently Replaced The Gear Shift Linkage Cable, The Gear Shifter Mechanism Inside The Steering Column As Well As The Solenoid Inside The Column; Finally Got It To Start Shifting Into Each Gear But Now The Truck Just Wont Move. Sounds Like Everything’s Shifting Normally. Any Advice Or Information Is Very Appreciated.
 

Doubeleive

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I Have A 2008 Chevy Tahoe LT And Recently Replaced The Gear Shift Linkage Cable, The Gear Shifter Mechanism Inside The Steering Column As Well As The Solenoid Inside The Column; Finally Got It To Start Shifting Into Each Gear But Now The Truck Just Wont Move. Sounds Like Everything’s Shifting Normally. Any Advice Or Information Is Very Appreciated.
what was the original problem?
is the parking brake set?
have you looked underneath so be sure it is in fact shifting and moving the arm on the transmission?
presuming it is in "gear" what happens? does it just rev?
is the transmission fluid full?
 
OP
OP
BigRedChevyBaby

BigRedChevyBaby

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what was the original problem?
is the parking brake set?
have you looked underneath so be sure it is in fact shifting and moving the arm on the transmission?
presuming it is in "gear" what happens? does it just rev?
is the transmission fluid full?
Well The Original Problem Started With Me Trying To Take It Out Of Park One Day Snd It Just Snapped. Started With Replacing The Linkage Cable Both Upper And Lower Still Had An Extreamly Loose Lever A d Would Not Change Gears, Then Found The Broken Solenoid In The Column And Replaced That, Then Found The Mechanism Was Also Broken. After Buying A Second New Linkage Cable Because The Plastic Clip Broke On The First One Finally The Lever Started Showing The Gears And Felt Back To Normal As Far As Movement Went. This Is My Third Tahoe Im Aware Of This Generation And The Trans Issues So Im Always Double, Triple Checking Parking Break Gets Set Specially On Inclined Parking. When I Got The Truck To Change Gears And Pushed On The Gas It Does Rev Just Wont Move. I Thought Because I Am Parked At A Very Slight Incline (Nose Down) That Maybe It’s Just Possibly Sensors Thinking It’s Low On Fluid But Im Not Positive On That, There’s No Lights On The Dash Indicating Low Fluid Or Anything Out Of The Ordinary.
 

Doubeleive

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Well The Original Problem Started With Me Trying To Take It Out Of Park One Day Snd It Just Snapped. Started With Replacing The Linkage Cable Both Upper And Lower Still Had An Extreamly Loose Lever A d Would Not Change Gears, Then Found The Broken Solenoid In The Column And Replaced That, Then Found The Mechanism Was Also Broken. After Buying A Second New Linkage Cable Because The Plastic Clip Broke On The First One Finally The Lever Started Showing The Gears And Felt Back To Normal As Far As Movement Went. This Is My Third Tahoe Im Aware Of This Generation And The Trans Issues So Im Always Double, Triple Checking Parking Break Gets Set Specially On Inclined Parking. When I Got The Truck To Change Gears And Pushed On The Gas It Does Rev Just Wont Move. I Thought Because I Am Parked At A Very Slight Incline (Nose Down) That Maybe It’s Just Possibly Sensors Thinking It’s Low On Fluid But Im Not Positive On That, There’s No Lights On The Dash Indicating Low Fluid Or Anything Out Of The Ordinary.
I don't think the transmission gives any warning for fluid level like the engine will for oil or coolant. I would check the fluid level if nothing shows on the end of the stick then it's low for sure. Also you can disconnect the shifter cable and move it by hand p/r/n/d/l, get a helper and try it by hand in case your not adjusted on the cable correctly.
 

NickTransmissions

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I Have A 2008 Chevy Tahoe LT And Recently Replaced The Gear Shift Linkage Cable, The Gear Shifter Mechanism Inside The Steering Column As Well As The Solenoid Inside The Column; Finally Got It To Start Shifting Into Each Gear But Now The Truck Just Wont Move. Sounds Like Everything’s Shifting Normally. Any Advice Or Information Is Very Appreciated.
What does the transmission dip stick show in terms of fluid level? what about the color/smell - is it dark/burnt?

Some causes of a 'No Movement/Neutral in All Range Positions' condition for the 4L60E (That is what I think you have):
- Pump rotor breakup (most common)
- Input shaft splines stripped
- Burnt Low/Reverse or Reverse Input clutch + Failed low roller assembly
- Destroyed gear train
- Converter
- Completely clogged filter (least common)

There's no sensors that monitor transmission fluid level
None of the above will generate a DTC / cause the check engine light to come on.

Thread a transmission pressure gauge into the line pressure port on the driver side of the transmission, right behind the bell housing. You can use either a 7/16" socket or wrench to remove / reinstall the threaded plug.

If you have a 6L80, causes are similar to the above (some semantical differences, nothing more).
 

j91z28d1

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have you tried it on other gears besides drive?

I don't know if these new autos are like the old ones, but you could get the cable out of adjustment where it was half in between gears and it would slip.

if you can find someone you trust to be inside the car while you disconnect the cable and shift it into drive by hand. that would tell rule out cable related issues.
 

Doubeleive

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have you tried it on other gears besides drive?

I don't know if these new autos are like the old ones, but you could get the cable out of adjustment where it was half in between gears and it would slip.

if you can find someone you trust to be inside the car while you disconnect the cable and shift it into drive by hand. that would tell rule out cable related issues.
same as what I was thinking if that cable isn't right somewhere
 

NickTransmissions

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This is what I read from @BigRedChevyBaby 's first post and interpreted this to mean that he was able to select his gears (range settings) successfully after r/r the shift cable, etc and now he has a neutral condition:

Finally Got It To Start Shifting Into Each Gear But Now The Truck Just Wont Move. Sounds Like Everything’s Shifting Normally.

This sounds like a no-movement / neutral condition in a non-neutral/park range but where the pump is moving fluid and line pressure is normal.
If my interpretation of what he's saying in yellow is correct and he has successfully/correctly installed the cable such that it's fully moving the selector shaft through the detents, trans has to come out to be overhauled.

If not then perhaps something else is going on w/the cable.


I don't know if these new autos are like the old ones, but you could get the cable out of adjustment where it was half in between gears and it would slip.
This happens when the manual valve is 'in between' apply circuits for R/N or N/D, D/D3 and so forth...the manual valve is only exposing half of the hydraulic feed circuit openings to fluid so forward or low reverse are only receiving half the fluid because the valve is 'stuck' between each 'cavity' in the valve body.

if you can find someone you trust to be inside the car while you disconnect the cable and shift it into drive by hand. that would tell rule out cable related issues.
If attempting this test, OP, put all four wheels up on jack stands (or at minimum the rear wheels and fully chock the fronts) just to be safe. Otherwise a good test to rule in or out problems w/the cable.
 

j91z28d1

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putting it on jack stands would be the safe way forsure, especially if it's the awd one. I have some bad habits from work. rather than get out the tow truck, one of us will just pop them in gear to get back to the shop. probably not the smartest way to get run over lol.


what you're saying is how I read it at first too, but I had hopes that everything didn't go out all at once. bad luck to have a cable snap, the stuff in the column be bad and the tranny eat itself and needs rebuild all at once. but crazier things have happened.
 

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