TRANSMISSION Oil Cooler Retrofit

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Geotrash

Dave
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I'm not familiar with them. I've had quality oil lines and stainless worm drive hose clamps last 15+ years. I wouldn't hesitate to use them on this, but if I can have factory hard lines the whole way, I'd rather go that route. AFAIK, all that's needed for the Tru-Cool 40K is a splice fitting so you can cut the left side pipe (when facing engine) and reattach it rotated 180°.
Yes, this is correct, Chris.

That said, I think if I had it to do over again, I would go with a Derale transmission cooler with its own fan, and mount it either below the radiator, or somewhere else that's out of the way. The challenge I'm having with the Tru-Cool is that while it's super effective, it also reduces the airflow through the radiator, while increasing the temperature of that air, creating engine cooling problems when towing in warm weather, and necessitating a radiator upgrade in my case. It's possible that I would've needed a radiator upgrade anyway for the kind of towing I do, but either way, putting the heat from the transmission cooler in front of most of the radiator makes the whole cooling system less efficient, and really doesn't make good engineering sense.
 

Foggy

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Yes, this is correct, Chris.

That said, I think if I had it to do over again, I would go with a Derale transmission cooler with its own fan, and mount it either below the radiator, or somewhere else that's out of the way. The challenge I'm having with the Tru-Cool is that while it's super effective, it also reduces the airflow through the radiator, while increasing the temperature of that air, creating engine cooling problems when towing in warm weather, and necessitating a radiator upgrade in my case. It's possible that I would've needed a radiator upgrade anyway for the kind of towing I do, but either way, putting the heat from the transmission cooler in front of most of the radiator makes the whole cooling system less efficient, and really doesn't make good engineering sense.


I'm in the process of putting in the Derale trans cooler with it's own fan too.
My trans runs a little hotter than I'd like and I think the reason is that my intercooler
for the supercharger is directly in front of the oem external cooler..
So moving that should help airflow to everything else and not having hot
air going directly into the aux trans cooler should help too
 

Bill 1960

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Thanks for the advice.

Using hard (aluminum) lines is better than rubber or PTFE because the aluminum acts like a supplemental radiator and dissipates heat while the fluid is flowing through the lines.

That’s a good point, and just to clarify the OEM lines are steel. Aluminum would be fragile in that size.
 

thompsoj22

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I'm in the process of putting in the Derale trans cooler with it's own fan too.
My trans runs a little hotter than I'd like and I think the reason is that my intercooler
for the supercharger is directly in front of the oem external cooler..
So moving that should help airflow to everything else and not having hot
air going directly into the aux trans cooler should help too


Consider running the DERALE as a stand alone cooler. By design they are intended to be used "stand alone". I kept the radiator in the circuit on mine and feel it isnt necessary at all. Since you are allready concerned with removing heat sources from your engine cooling system this is the way to go. when you cut the line's to plumb the DERALE simply cut the in and out from the factory trans lines to the radiator down low and leave them installed in the radiator zip tied out of the way. In the event you end up living in Vail and want the trans heat from the radiator it is easily plumbed back in with clamps and hoses.
 
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2007YukonXL

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>and just to clarify the OEM lines are steel. Aluminum would be fragile in that size.

THANKS for the clarification and keeping me honest.

So I have seen there is a transmission cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator and condenser on a bracket. T

https://transmissioncoolerguide.com/best-transmission-coolers-silverado-sierra/


His looks like an OEM device so the questions are...

-Is this a bolt on kit or is it a universal type deal that I need to fabricate?

-Is it plumbed after the internal radiator cooler or is it used in lieu of the internal radiator cooler?

-Regarding the STEEL lines (see learning has taken place), to install the external trans cooler in front of the radiator does the kit designed so that you un-plug the steel line from the outlet of the radiator cooler and then connect the kit supplied steel lines up to the new cooler in front of the radiator and then it contains a second steel line that returns to the now loose end of the return steel line?

Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can throw my way!!!
 

Bill 1960

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See the link in post #2, I just did what you’re asking about. That’s the OEM cooler in the picture in your link. You can buy everything at the dealer, or use online sources to buy it. That’s 100% bolt on using factory parts.

In the factory configuration, it runs to the radiator, then out of that to the front air cooler, then returns to the trans. There’s a short line to install from the radiator top connection to the air cooler. The return line goes from the air cooler all the way back to the trans. The original return line is removed and discarded.

A practical person might decide to cut the original return line and splice in just a part of the new return, because it’s not easy to remove and reinstall the connection on the trans. Space is very tight.

Not many people will install the OEM equipment because aftermarket is less expensive and cools more, if you get a big one.
 

trailblazer

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Trans cooler output AT at the trans is VERY tight due to the front driveshaft. I used the original fitting and used my brake flaring tool (bubble flare) to keep the hoses from slipping off.

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Monz11

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Wish I would have had this knowledge before I changed my mind and thought TruCool would be a better option than the Derale.
Now I guess I'm going sell my TruCool or send it back
 

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