Torsion bar madness HELLLP *RESOLVED*

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1badjimmy

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Instead of suffering through changing the keys back to stock and hoping the 285’s fit; just save for/ ask the accountant for the true lift kit and coil overs.

It’s a ton of work plus expense of two alignments. Should get alignment checked/ adjusted for any suspension/ steering work performed.

And looking through your pictures again the right torsion bar seems to be installed backwards. On my GM vehicles of the same era the R & L were at the keys.
 

wjburken

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View attachment 370116

It was not supported in the photos my Jack is just chilling there for a photo op.

Currently aligning the front end, went for an around the block cruise snd it seemed the cv’s settled a little after I backed off the keys last night. Let y’all know how the test drive goes.
I’m no expert on the NBS torsion bar suspension, but it sure looks like there is a larger than normal gap between your jounce stop and the lower control arm. It’s my understanding that with torsion bar systems, the bounce stop should be almost touching when the vehicle is at rest.

 
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Gdsmith07

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Instead of suffering through changing the keys back to stock and hoping the 285’s fit; just save for/ ask the accountant for the true lift kit and coil overs.

It’s a ton of work plus expense of two alignments. Should get alignment checked/ adjusted for any suspension/ steering work performed.

And looking through your pictures again the right torsion bar seems to be installed backwards. On my GM vehicles of the same era the R & L were at the keys.

Yeah that’s what I was wondering as well are they able to be reversed? I agree that everywhere I had seen had said lettering to the back can they be flipped front to back?

I could definitely drop the bars again and flip them it isn’t too much of a hassle.
 
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Gdsmith07

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I’m no expert on the NBS torsion bar suspension, but it sure looks like there is a larger than normal gap between your jounce stop and the lower control arm. It’s my understanding that with torsion bar systems, the bounce stop should be almost touching when the vehicle is at rest.

Thought the threads I had read most people Said just touching or an inch off. I agree my angles seem way crazy. Im
Wondering if maybe I do flip my torsion bars front to back if it would fix it. Maybe whoever installed the cheap lift put the bars in wrong. Ill
Give it a go tomorrow.
 
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Gdsmith07

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I was able to get a camber and tow alignment done this evening. Drives perfectly Fine in 2WD no issues with steering. Suspensions a little rough feeling but not any worse or better than it was.

Tried the 4WD again. Still having the same issues. Feels like it’s trying to fall over itself, and jerks left and right.

Even in 2WD I get a consistent click like a cv joint gone bad. There’s one strip of pavement available to drive on here and when I take the truck across the pavement st about 35-40 the cv click noise disappears. As soon as I hit the rock/dirt at the other end it comes back. It’s such a weird thing.

I was thinking maybe the bearings in the Axel stubs have gone bad? I’ve finally got a second set of hands and we will check the pitman/idler tomorrow as well.
 
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Gdsmith07

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Instead of suffering through changing the keys back to stock and hoping the 285’s fit; just save for/ ask the accountant for the true lift kit and coil overs.

It’s a ton of work plus expense of two alignments. Should get alignment checked/ adjusted for any suspension/ steering work performed.

And looking through your pictures again the right torsion bar seems to be installed backwards. On my GM vehicles of the same era the R & L were at the keys.
What’s a decent kit to go for with these Yukon’s? Are the rough country kits actually any good ? I’d assume they’re what you pay for which is what I’ve always thought of them but this is my first Yukon so I don’t know much about them in specific and how they handle the kits. Are they similar/the same as the silverado /Sierra’s ?
 

Fless

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The front suspension on these is designed for the jounce stop to be contacting the lower control arm; it's a fulcrum point and having a gap will cause issues.
 
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Gdsmith07

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The front suspension on these is designed for the jounce stop to be contacting the lower control arm; it's a fulcrum point and having a gap will cause issues.
Even with the leveling kit should I still
Be able to adjust the front to touch the joints stop ?
 
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Gdsmith07

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Also just a why not. I antiseized the hell put of my bars and keys when I initslly
Took them out 8 months ago…. Was able to pull them by hand I’d recommend it if someone drops their bars made my life much easier.
 
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Gdsmith07

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74CE2D2B-A3A9-4896-A5B3-E397D25BD99D.jpeg

Alright here’s a couple
Pictures of the new cv angles after finally
Getting a decent toe/camber alignment finished last night and cranking the T bar keys bolts basically all the way out this is what my cv axels angles look like and hy basically all the way out I mean my torsion keys are pretty much resting on the blocks.

I’m going to get it back in and flip the torsion bars front to back maybe that’ll give me a little more give in the front end so it’s not so brick like.

Then I guess it’s on to figuring out what’s going on with the 4WD
 

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