Torque convertor

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Tiredmechanic23

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Alright so I just got my trans back from being rebuilt by TK performance in ohio. Got a level 3 build to help handle my driving.

I am wanting to know what stock stall is and what a good recommended stall would be for a NA setup with a few bolt ons and a tune. This is all going on a 2016 tahoe with a 5.3.
 

swathdiver

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Alright so I just got my trans back from being rebuilt by TK performance in ohio. Got a level 3 build to help handle my driving.

I am wanting to know what stock stall is and what a good recommended stall would be for a NA setup with a few bolt ons and a tune. This is all going on a 2016 tahoe with a 5.3.

Stock is 1600-1800 rpms depending on the power output of the engine. Most will go for 3000 rpms, I would do 200-300 over stock.
 

Jeramia

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Not to high jack this post, but are the PATC torque converters worth the investment? Getting parts together for an overhaul.
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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Stock is 1600-1800 rpms depending on the power output of the engine. Most will go for 3000 rpms, I would do 200-300 over stock.

struggling to find a performance minded converter that little over stock sadly. Most are 2600 as the lowest. I was thinking 2k or a little over would be good but wanted to confirm.
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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Not to high jack this post, but are the PATC torque converters worth the investment? Getting parts together for an overhaul.


I dunno but they seem knowledgeable on the phone. I am ordering from them at this moment and will see how they do.
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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I ordered the PQ80 4 carbon fiber clutch 10 1/2 inch converter. It should handle everything I plan to put through it.
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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My wallet is to thin for this one. I was looking at the 88-6l80-1

I think that one should be good as well. I went with the PQ80 as I tend to drive everything like its a sports car plus I tow at capacity often enough. Normal daily driving im pretty sure the other would be good. But call them up and ask to speak to someone about converters they will point you in the right direction. Good people and they answer not some automated machine.
 

Jeramia

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I think that one should be good as well. I went with the PQ80 as I tend to drive everything like its a sports car plus I tow at capacity often enough. Normal daily driving im pretty sure the other would be good. But call them up and ask to speak to someone about converters they will point you in the right direction. Good people and they answer not some automated machine.
The torque converter that I quoted, I talked with them about this. They give different options for this unit were you can upgrade. This unit is running about 500.00 total. I also pull a boat and trailer, plus it's 4wd. I wanted to keep the stall about 1800.
I talked with trans builders and they say this trans. is bullet proof, The problem is the leaking valves. This messes up the torque converter. All claim the zip kit is the fix. Thanks for the information that you provided. Jerry
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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The torque converter that I quoted, I talked with them about this. They give different options for this unit were you can upgrade. This unit is running about 500.00 total. I also pull a boat and trailer, plus it's 4wd. I wanted to keep the stall about 1800.
I talked with trans builders and they say this trans. is bullet proof, The problem is the leaking valves. This messes up the torque converter. All claim the zip kit is the fix. Thanks for the information that you provided. Jerry


Pretty much what ive heard from multiple builders. TK performance though has set me up nicely with the build. I have far more than a zip kit in place now. But the PQ80 is the icing for me. I should be bullet proof and the trans should far outlast the vehicle for me. Glad you got answers and found what you need.
 

Jeramia

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Tiredmechanic When you pulled your trans, Did you remove the entire exhaust system or un-bolt from the exhaust headers and cut the pipe under the trans? Thanks Jerry
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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Tiredmechanic When you pulled your trans, Did you remove the entire exhaust system or un-bolt from the exhaust headers and cut the pipe under the trans? Thanks Jerry


Sorry for the slow reply. Had severe storms come though and take out power for my county.

Anyways When I pulled the trans I just removed the Y pipe at the manifolds and at the clamp after the 3rd cat. I wiggled it out from under the vehicle and then pulled the trans. Its a bit of a hassle to get angled just right to drop out but itll come out.
 

Jeramia

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Tiredmech. I have one more question, If you have a 4wd, did you pull the transfer case first or left it attached to the trans? thanks Jerry
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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Tiredmech. I have one more question, If you have a 4wd, did you pull the transfer case first or left it attached to the trans? thanks Jerry


I only have a 2wd. But with any GM I always drop the transfer case first as usually they do no clear for the trans to either push back far enough to drop out or they hang up on a cross member and wont let it drop out.
 
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Tiredmechanic23

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Thanks for the information. My converter arrived last week. Bought a transmission jack from Harbor freight for 99.00 So I'm just about ready to get started. Jerry

yours came in quick lol. If you are doing it on the ground you will likely want a extra set of hands to at least help mating it up. I just finished test driving mine. Its solid. Shifts great and temps are spot on.
 

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