Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[ScottyBoy]

@Tonyrodz , you need to mount that relay block properly. It is supposed to clip on UNDER the fuse box cover. You need to remove that corner fender brace, then lift off the fuse block cover by unclipping it. Once you get it off, you should basically SEE where the relay block clips in by the shape of it.

 

[ScottyBoy]

@Tonyrodz , you need to mount that relay block properly. It is supposed to clip on UNDER the fuse box cover. You need to remove that corner fender brace, then lift off the fuse block cover by unclipping it. Once you get it off, you should basically SEE where the relay block clips in by the shape of it.

Here you go, I found some pics from when I installed mine. This is how it should look after you lift off the fuse block cover. And the the relays literally clip right on. The red power wire should run UNDER the fuse block to the main power stud on the front end of the fuse block, towards the battery. It should be the same power stud that the fuse block power feed is connected to. Technically it's not an actual stud, it's a 8mm bolt that actually screws down into the end of the fuse block. I do NOT have a picture of that though, sorry. I'll update if I can get you a picture.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Here you go, I found some pics from when I installed mine. This is how it should look after you lift off the fuse block cover. And the the relays literally clip right on. The red power wire should run UNDER the fuse block to the main power stud on the front end of the fuse block, towards the battery. It should be the same power stud that the fuse block power feed is connected to. Technically it's not an actual stud, it's a 8mm bolt that actually screws down into the end of the fuse block. I do NOT have a picture of that though, sorry. I'll update if I can get you a picture.

Hopefully I'll be able to get this mounted correctly. The dirty Hoe never, EVER wants to cooperate. Nothing is ever easy lol.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So I finally swapped to my winter wheels setup. Cold and windy AF, but I wanted to do it before any snow comes--since my rear tires are a "little low on tread" lol.
Anyway, I had seen the rr parking brake cables weren't routed correctly, so I figured I'd fix them. Gave it a shot--the cables were way to stiff to swing them around. Tried removing the lower shock bolt, didn't work either. I said screw it. As I was looking at that, I saw this
Anybody see it? Good thing I was under there. When the "mechanic" swapped out the rear--besides not routing the parking brake cables correctly, he left my rear brake line too close to the bump stop and cup, so every time I'd hit a dip or bump it was being pinched between the frame and cup/bump stop. That's quality work right there. Just confirms what I already know--No one gives a damn about your stuff except for you.
Also saw this. This is the ds. I knew the boot was torn already. At least this part of the truck will never rust.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Forgot--

 

[07Burb]

So I finally swapped to my winter wheels setup. Cold and windy AF, but I wanted to do it before any snow comes--since my rear tires are a "little low on tread" lol.
Anyway, I had seen the rr parking brake cables weren't routed correctly, so I figured I'd fix them. Gave it a shot--the cables were way to stiff to swing them around. Tried removing the lower shock bolt, didn't work either. I said screw it. As I was looking at that, I saw thisView attachment 415194
Anybody see it? Good thing I was under there. When the "mechanic" swapped out the rear--besides not routing the parking brake cables correctly, he left my rear brake line too close to the bump stop and cup, so every time I'd hit a dip or bump it was being pinched between the frame and cup/bump stop. That's quality work right there. Just confirms what I already know--No one gives a damn about your stuff except for you.
Also saw this. This is the ds. I knew the boot was torn already. At least this part of the truck will never rust.View attachment 415193

I assume a new axle is on your list of to-dos in the future? Dont wanna leave that like that for too terribly long. The corrosion will play havoc eventually.



And you seem to have a real group of awful mechanics in your neck of the woods LOL

 

[Tonyrodz]

I assume a new axle is on your list of to-dos in the future? Dont wanna leave that like that for too terribly long. The corrosion will play havoc eventually.



And you seem to have a real group of awful mechanics in your neck of the woods LOL

Lol, "mechanics"--sure. I've changed this axle probably 3 times already--myself. Might be at a bad angle because I lowered it.

 

[tom3]

Seems like for some reason that driver's side CV boot is a constant problem. I think Advance Auto has a lifetime warranty on their axles, price is not bad.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Seems like for some reason that driver's side CV boot is a constant problem. I think Advance Auto has a lifetime warranty on their axles, price is not bad.

That's exactly where I get them from.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Lol, "mechanics"--sure. I've changed this axle probably 3 times already--myself. Might be at a bad angle because I lowered it.

It's not the angle. It's the shit boots they use and when I have to replace another one, I'm buying gm. I didn't get 30k miles out of the one on the drivers side. The originals i replaced as "preventative maintenance" had 200k on them

 

[Tonyrodz]

It's not the angle. It's the shit boots they use and when I have to replace another one, I'm buying gm. I didn't get 30k miles out of the one on the drivers side. The originals i replaced as "preventative maintenance" had 200k on them

I can believe it. Nothing is usually better then oem when it comes to parts quality.

 

[Tonyrodz]

My Tahoe has been sitting for a few days, so I decided to use it today. Up until this point the cluster has been fine. I start the truck and the gauges are completely dead. The PRNDL and mileage displays work, all the lights come on and off just fine, just the gauges are dead. I tried banging on the dash--just in case--nothing. BTW--This is an Esky cluster that's been rebuilt maybe 5-6 years ago.

I've checked dash related fuses and they're all good. Anyone have any idea what I could be missing?

 

[Fless]

So your pic is from when it was working?

 

[Tonyrodz]

So your pic is from when it was working?

Yup. Just wanted to show which cluster is in there now.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Was taking the Hoe to MV, around the corner from my house I lost forward overdrive--wouldn't move in any other gears. Fluid is still pinkish/reddish, not burnt. Then it finally decided to move. Drove fine on the highway, so idk. I hope the transmission isn't calling it quits. No cel either.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Was taking the Hoe to MV, around the corner from my house I lost forward overdrive--wouldn't move in any other gears. Fluid is still pinkish/reddish, not burnt. Then it finally decided to move. Drove fine on the highway, so idk. I hope the transmission isn't calling it quits. No cel either.

@NickTransmissions any ideas, recommendations or things I could check to see if it might be the trans?

 

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions any ideas, recommendations or things I could check to see if it might be the trans?

Hey Tony, sounds like loss of line pressure within the trans, torque converter or perhaps #1 check ball beginning to stick in the spacer plate (there's a myriad of other things that it could be as well but those are the first three things that come to mind). I'd put a bi-directional scan tool and pressure gauge on it, fire it up and let it idle to see what line pressures are being produced by the trans as well as any codes (CEL may or may not illuminate if transmission DTCs are set/stored). Then put it in gear w/the pressure gauge still installed and scan tool connected w/the transmission live data being displayed...Take it around the block again and watch the transmission information, paying particular attention to shift speeds, gear changes, torque converter efficiency, etc.

Any unusual noises heard or anomalies felt just before you lost all movement?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Hey Tony, sounds like loss of line pressure within the trans, torque converter or perhaps #1 check ball beginning to stick in the spacer plate (there's a myriad of other things that it could be as well but those are the first three things that come to mind). I'd put a bi-directional scan tool and pressure gauge on it, fire it up and let it idle to see what line pressures are being produced by the trans as well as any codes (CEL may or may not illuminate if transmission DTCs are set/stored). Then put it in gear w/the pressure gauge still installed and scan tool connected w/the transmission live data being displayed...Take it around the block again and watch the transmission information, paying particular attention to shift speeds, gear changes, torque converter efficiency, etc.

Any unusual noises heard or anomalies felt just before you lost all movement?

Sounds like I'm gonna have to try and get the builder to check it--hopefully.
Nope, no strange noises or anything else strange. Just one minute I was moving, then the next it was like I threw it in neutral. I kept going through the gears then in park with the shifter, then it finally went into drive. I don't remember exactly what parts the builder upgraded but I do remember it has a shift kit, corvette servo, 3000 Circle D converter, and I know he installed a beast sunshell, and some extra steel clutches.
Do you think I could eventually blow the trans from this? It drove fine after this happened.
Thanks for chiming in @NickTransmissions .

 

[NickTransmissions]

Sounds like I'm gonna have to try and get the builder to check it--hopefully.
Nope, no strange noises or anything else strange. Just one minute I was moving, then the next it was like I threw it in neutral. I kept going through the gears then in park with the shifter, then it finally went into drive. I don't remember exactly what parts the builder upgraded but I do remember it has a shift kit, corvette servo, 3000 Circle D converter, and I know he installed a beast sunshell, and some extra steel clutches.
Do you think I could eventually blow the trans from this? It drove fine after this happened.
Thanks for chiming in @NickTransmissions .

I was thinking you had a 6L80, not a 4L60E...4L60E neutral condition in "Drive" can be forward sprag beginning to roll over and fail. Ask your trans builder if that was replaced upon overhaul as they get worn and will roll causing a no-forward movement condition when in Drive or D3. You may also be seeing gear train failure, forward clutch pack failure, low roller clutch failure (rare) or a combination of all of those things or even the beginnings of the pump rotor/slide/pump rings failing. I'd lean towards the sprag and/or gear train failure for now since you didn't mention the fluid smelling burnt/dark, etc...Same advice insofar as next step applies - do a pressure test, check for codes but in the 4L60E, there aren't any DTCs that will correlate with a neutral condition as the 4L60E is not nearly as dependent on TCM input for hydraulic function as the 6, 8 and 10 speeds are. Neutral conditions are usually the result of mechanical failure of hard parts in 4L60Es.

He may have added an upgraded 3-4 clutch pack such as either Borg Warner or Alto 'Max Pack', 4L65E 3-4 stack up, Raybestos Z pack (hope not) or one he set up a la carte.

How many miles on the transmission since it was rebuilt?

 

[Tonyrodz]

I was thinking you had a 6L80, not a 4L60E...4L60E neutral condition in "Drive" can be forward sprag beginning to roll over and fail. Ask your trans builder if that was replaced upon overhaul as they get worn and will roll causing a no-forward movement condition when in Drive or D3. You may also be seeing gear train failure, forward clutch pack failure, low roller clutch failure (rare) or a combination of all of those things or even the beginnings of the pump rotor/slide/pump rings failing. I'd lean towards the sprag and/or gear train failure for now since you didn't mention the fluid smelling burnt/dark, etc...Same advice insofar as next step applies - do a pressure test, check for codes but in the 4L60E, there aren't any DTCs that will correlate with a neutral condition as the 4L60E is not nearly as dependent on TCM input for hydraulic function as the 6, 8 and 10 speeds are. Neutral conditions are usually the result of mechanical failure of hard parts in 4L60Es.

He may have added an upgraded 3-4 clutch pack such as either Borg Warner or Alto 'Max Pack', 4L65E 3-4 stack up, Raybestos Z pack (hope not) or one he set up a la carte.

How many miles on the transmission since it was rebuilt?

I'd say maybe 15k or less since the rebuild. I think he might've used the Raybestos Z pack--sounds so familiar--are they no good? I've been kind of rough on the trans tho, not continuously, but I did blow the rearend.
Fluid looked good and didn't smell burned.