Tires scrub even with lift! Help plz

[yates ™]

[yt]IDVabo5CC2E[/yt]

 

[Frankie21]

I appreciate the help.

 

[yates ™]

No problem

 

[Frankie21]

What lift do you have? To me you look maxed out already. Maybe look into 2" lift spindles and decrank the bars to the tune of an inch thus still leaving you an inch higher then now Someone with more lift experience on these needs to look at these.

Hey i was looking around for lift spindles but i can only find them for 2WD Tahoes. Mine is a 01 Z71 4WD.
Any help?

---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:30 PM ----------

And what offset would you recommend for new wheels?

 

[yates ™]

Call and ask them, they are probably the same as trucks.

 

[mikewayne]

if you have recently replaced your tires and are now having a steering, handling or tire-related problem, it could be a bad tire. The underlying cause may be a manufacturing defect that took time to make itself noticeable, or it could be the result of structural damage to the tire caused by a pothole or improper mounting. inspect the tires carefully for obvious tread or sidewall defects such as cuts, bulges, ripples, bruises, scrapes, missing chunks of tread, separations, cracks, etc. Uneven tread wear may indicate misalignment, under or overinflation or a tire construction defect.a belt that is out of position more than one millimeter may cause a steering pull on some vehicles. The position of the outermost belt is the most important because it has the greatest effect on directional stability. Though vibrations are usually caused by an out-of-balance wheel and tire assembly, it is important to remember that vibrations can also be caused by excessive radial (vertical) and lateral (sideways) runout in the tire, wheel or hub. Loose, worn or damaged wheel bearings as well as certain kinds of tread wear can also cause annoying vibrations

 

[yates ™]

if you have recently replaced your tires and are now having a steering, handling or tire-related problem, it could be a bad tire. The underlying cause may be a manufacturing defect that took time to make itself noticeable, or it could be the result of structural damage to the tire caused by a pothole or improper mounting. inspect the tires carefully for obvious tread or sidewall defects such as cuts, bulges, ripples, bruises, scrapes, missing chunks of tread, separations, cracks, etc. Uneven tread wear may indicate misalignment, under or overinflation or a tire construction defect.a belt that is out of position more than one millimeter may cause a steering pull on some vehicles. The position of the outermost belt is the most important because it has the greatest effect on directional stability. Though vibrations are usually caused by an out-of-balance wheel and tire assembly, it is important to remember that vibrations can also be caused by excessive radial (vertical) and lateral (sideways) runout in the tire, wheel or hub. Loose, worn or damaged wheel bearings as well as certain kinds of tread wear can also cause annoying vibrations

Good info but he is only experiencing rubbing from his tires being to large and none of those symptoms.

 

[Frankie21]

if you have recently replaced your tires and are now having a steering, handling or tire-related problem, it could be a bad tire. The underlying cause may be a manufacturing defect that took time to make itself noticeable, or it could be the result of structural damage to the tire caused by a pothole or improper mounting. inspect the tires carefully for obvious tread or sidewall defects such as cuts, bulges, ripples, bruises, scrapes, missing chunks of tread, separations, cracks, etc. Uneven tread wear may indicate misalignment, under or overinflation or a tire construction defect.a belt that is out of position more than one millimeter may cause a steering pull on some vehicles. The position of the outermost belt is the most important because it has the greatest effect on directional stability. Though vibrations are usually caused by an out-of-balance wheel and tire assembly, it is important to remember that vibrations can also be caused by excessive radial (vertical) and lateral (sideways) runout in the tire, wheel or hub. Loose, worn or damaged wheel bearings as well as certain kinds of tread wear can also cause annoying vibrations

Thanks man, but my tires are about done, they're as far away from new as possible. I appreciate the info though.

---------- Post added at 01:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------

Hey Yates, if i get 35x14.50x17 tires will it fix the problem? Or will it still scrub because of the width increase.
I currently have 36x13.50x17

 

[01Konvict]

Lift spindles are for 2wd only! Either +0mm offset or a +12mm offset with stop the scrub. I still say order lift keys and then try clearance. The +12 will def clear but may sit to far under the truck for your preference. The +0mm will still need trimming. The tire is the problem but can work with +12, or smaller tire and keep the rims.

 

[yates ™]

Lift spindles are for 2wd only! Either +0mm offset or a +12mm offset with stop the scrub. I still say order lift keys and then try clearance. The +12 will def clear but may sit to far under the truck for your preference. The +0mm will still need trimming. The tire is the problem but can work with +12, or smaller tire and keep the rims.

I did not realize they would not make one for a 4x4

 

[Frankie21]

Lift spindles are for 2wd only! Either +0mm offset or a +12mm offset with stop the scrub. I still say order lift keys and then try clearance. The +12 will def clear but may sit to far under the truck for your preference. The +0mm will still need trimming. The tire is the problem but can work with +12, or smaller tire and keep the rims.

Could you link me to the appropriate keys please
And what if i also went down to a 35x14.50 with the same rim. I need new tires anyways these are about dead.

---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:22 PM ----------

Buying new rim's really isn't in the budget at the moment so that idea is out the window.

---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 PM ----------

My torsion bars are cranked all the way out and the ride is really rough. I want to de-crank them a little as Yates recommended. So Lets say i turn them down two turns each add the lift keys and 35x14.50 tires. Will i still scrub?

 

[WildBill]

I havent lifted that high. but really, you cv angles look bad. I would step up to an bigger lift 8" or so. Or do a 1.5" body lift. Maybe not the best, but lots of people have them. whats getting you is the tire. There are guys on here with keys only that dont rub on 35s because their tire and wheel set up s right.

I bet if you went with 35x13.5 you would be happier. or pony up for a lift. OR, keep drivin and that bumper will pull off...problem solved!

good luck!

 

[Frankie21]

Yea i know man. But what if i buy 3" lift keys? Will that stop it from rubbing?
The lift just isn't in the budget right now.
Could you link me to a good 1.5" body lift?

---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:43 AM ----------

And what if i got 35x14.50? Will it still be the same problem? Id be going down in size but up in width.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Ok i read thru this and yes spindle is 2wd only he is correct on that i also have a 6 inch super lift , im pretty sure for your year its a knuckle lift and not a bracket as they are typically older design and most companys are going away from brackets what you could do is (not sure if this works in the same fashion as OBS but buy 2500 torsion bars ) because the 2500 torison bars are meant for heavier trucks it rides a little rougher but does the same job plus helps with sagging later on down the road esp if you decide to add one of those heavy ass aftermarket road armor or ranchhand bumpers down the road, i also second the idea of a SMALL body lift anything above 2 inches i dont reccomend simply because on top of an already six inch sus lift it causes more body roll and for a DD that gets aggrivating

 

[Frankie21]

Ok i read thru this and yes spindle is 2wd only he is correct on that i also have a 6 inch super lift , im pretty sure for your year its a knuckle lift and not a bracket as they are typically older design and most companys are going away from brackets what you could do is (not sure if this works in the same fashion as OBS but buy 2500 torsion bars ) because the 2500 torison bars are meant for heavier trucks it rides a little rougher but does the same job plus helps with sagging later on down the road esp if you decide to add one of those heavy ass aftermarket road armor or ranchhand bumpers down the road, i also second the idea of a SMALL body lift anything above 2 inches i dont reccomend simply because on top of an already six inch sus lift it causes more body roll and for a DD that gets aggrivating

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time and reading through everything.
Do you have a website or seller in particular for the 2500 torsion bars? And could you link me to a decent 2" body lift.
I appreciate the help!

 

[brucebruce45]

The 99-02 silverado 1.5" zone bl will work

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

i dont and like i stated not sure if this works in the NBS trucks i wouldnt see why not and could just get them in a junkyard,

 

[Frankie21]

The 99-02 silverado 1.5" zone bl will work

Where can i get this? I can only find the 3" body lift on their site.

 

[Fishintahoe]

Where can i get this? I can only find the 3" body lift on their site.

x2 on the 1.5 inch body lift. That should fix all ur problems. keys and bars swapping sounds like too much for just the inch of clearance that is needed. I have a 6 in lift and 35x12.5 tires and i had to trim quite a bit to make them fit.
I think with the 35x14.5 ur still gonna have rubbing issues.

 

[Frankie21]

Awesome! Thanks for the info man. Do you have a link where they sell the 1.5" body lift? Their site only shows the 3"
And what if i get the 1.5" body lift and the lift keys, if i get the 35x14.50 tires will they turn fine or will they still scrub?