Tire Camber Wear

[slicksdude]

I’ve had this camber issue as long as I can remember tried different shops and it still the same. I’ve went to the best alignment place in town that had been referred to me by many friends of mine and no go. After 8 months of getting new tires and a new alignment I discover I’m still getting "Toe In camber wear" What do I need to do to solve this issue?? It’s costing me new tires almost every year. HELP!? I’m aware other GM trucks have this same problem.

 

[M3PO]

I noticed these are not stock wheels and tires.
What size are both?
How many miles do you have on the truck?
Did you try putting the stock back on and see if you have the same problem?

Lower profile tires have less flex, therefor they are less forgiving on differences of roads and alignment issues. Ever notice how you can drive on a nearly or completely flat low pro tire without noticing?
Sometimes a wheel and tire combo requires more adjustment than the factory setup has to give.
Also realize many low pro tires have a much lower tread and heat rating, they will wear faster as they were designed for grip not economy.
I am not saying "get rid of your wheels" or that there isn't something else wrong, just as long as you know understand bigger wheels/tires with low pro will come at a price.



Worn front end parts will not hold an alignment.
Most important question: every time you got an alignment did you get a print out of the previous numbers before the shop adjusted and their current numbers?
If they had to make major adjustments every time, your truck is not holding an alignment; that could be due to damage, wear, a combo of over sized wheels and bad roads, or all/some of the above.

 

[slicksdude]

My current tire size is 305/35/24
I currently have about 120,000 miles on my rig I started noticing this problem after a couple of months of driving the truck off the lot when it only had about half of the miles it has now about 4 years ago (on stock tires).
It’s a clean title and Clean Car fax so I know it wasn’t wrecked or anything like that. As far as the alignment charts go I’ve never understood them so I never paid much attention to them (my mistake). Although I’m still under warranty for my alignment what should the proper specs be so I can take her back. Should I replace rods first? What’s would be suggested to do?

 

[Pachanga02]

I just got my alignment done yesterday because my stocks were getting worn, and after putting on my 4s I don't want to go through tires. They come back and tell me it's my steering box that has play and that it needs to be changed and then my tires won't wear quick. I'd like to know if that's true

 

[M3PO]

My current tire size is 305/35/24
I currently have about 120,000 miles on my rig I started noticing this problem after a couple of months of driving the truck off the lot when it only had about half of the miles it has now about 4 years ago (on stock tires).
It’s a clean title and Clean Car fax so I know it wasn’t wrecked or anything like that. As far as the alignment charts go I’ve never understood them so I never paid much attention to them (my mistake). Although I’m still under warranty for my alignment what should the proper specs be so I can take her back. Should I replace rods first? What’s would be suggested to do?

That is a considerably larger wheel and lower profile tire than what the truck was designed for, so IMHO it would only compound the problem.
First thing I would do is go back to the stock wheel and tire size, when you get the truck right, then put the larger wheels on.
I don't know off hand what the stock numbers are supposed to be, the point was to see if your truck needed large adjustments frequently, which would suggest there is a something damaged or worn. I would take it to a reputable shop and NOT ask them to do an alignment, but tell them the truck wont HOLD an alignment and give them the history. Now, you need to go to a place you trust, because you are basically telling them you know you have a problem and giving them a blank check. When dropping off, tell them you expect the repairs to fix the alignment/tire wear issues and you need some sort of guarantee it will (I am willing to bet no shop will on the aftermarket wheels).
I am not trying to talk you out of your big wheels, but giving you advice that will help you find the answer.
I know this is a grey area, I have several buddies that are dealer techs and this is an issue for many makes and models.

 

[Vinniety]

I just got my alignment done yesterday because my stocks were getting worn, and after putting on my 4s I don't want to go through tires. They come back and tell me it's my steering box that has play and that it needs to be changed and then my tires won't wear quick. I'd like to know if that's true

ITS NOT TRUE!! The play in the steering wheel has no affect on how the tire is planted on the road surface. If your stating that you cant hold the truck straight and almost cause accidents because of all the play in the wheel then that's a different story but no way is that going to cause the tire to wear unevenly. Now if he said ball joints have play or other front end items then YES but again no way on the steering box.

---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13 AM ----------

M3PO - couldn't have explained it better. I got my wheel alignment done with my aftermarket wheels and as soon as i drove off the truck pulled to the right. Went back and the tech who is my friend said you are in specs of what the truck is listed for. Now that i have the truck lowered and different wheels that throws those numbers out the window. The techs can start there but there will always be a need to go back and tweak it. A lot of places don't do that and sometimes that's why you should go to a shop that does big wheel installs maybe they have better experience. What about rotating the tires more often or maybe trying different tire pressure. I run 38 and on long trips 40.

i guess that's the negative thing having bigger wheels and tires. Need to pay to play i guess hahah maybe i could have phrased that better but you know what i mean!!

I noticed these are not stock wheels and tires.
What size are both?
How many miles do you have on the truck?
Did you try putting the stock back on and see if you have the same problem?

Lower profile tires have less flex, therefor they are less forgiving on differences of roads and alignment issues. Ever notice how you can drive on a nearly or completely flat low pro tire without noticing?
Sometimes a wheel and tire combo requires more adjustment than the factory setup has to give.
Also realize many low pro tires have a much lower tread and heat rating, they will wear faster as they were designed for grip not economy.
I am not saying "get rid of your wheels" or that there isn't something else wrong, just as long as you know understand bigger wheels/tires with low pro will come at a price.



Worn front end parts will not hold an alignment.
Most important question: every time you got an alignment did you get a print out of the previous numbers before the shop adjusted and their current numbers?
If they had to make major adjustments every time, your truck is not holding an alignment; that could be due to damage, wear, a combo of over sized wheels and bad roads, or all/some of the above.

---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 AM ----------

I just thought about something looking at your wheel. Is your truck lowered? You know if you do hit the torsion key bolts a little that top of the wheel will go in towards the truck. Maybe thats the problem. You have the torsion keys not set right and thats why you cant get the alignment done right.

Just another thought trying to help out!!

 

[slicksdude]

My truck is completely stock only thing aftermarket on it are the wheels. Stock Height, But you gave me a pretty good Idea by going to a shop that specialize in after market big wheels they should have an answer to this since im sure its common amongst other vehicles. Another thing after getting my alignment I did feel the truck pull to the side also, although the steering wheel felt much better.

 

[Vinniety]

My truck is completely stock only thing aftermarket on it are the wheels. Stock Height, But you gave me a pretty good Idea by going to a shop that specialize in after market big wheels they should have an answer to this since im sure its common amongst other vehicles. Another thing after getting my alignment I did feel the truck pull to the side also, although the steering wheel felt much better.

You stated you bought the truck used and maybe someone messed with the torsion key bolts. Torsion bars also do give way after time. Why don't you measure the height on the right and left side front wheels and make sure they are identical. If one side is lower that can also cause a pull. Well best of luck and keep this thread updated would really want to hear what the solution was.

 

[01Konvict]

I just got my alignment done yesterday because my stocks were getting worn, and after putting on my 4s I don't want to go through tires. They come back and tell me it's my steering box that has play and that it needs to be changed and then my tires won't wear quick. I'd like to know if that's true

Its not the gearbox, its the Idler Arm and Assembly. Its mounted on the passenger side frame rail in front of the engine. They wear out and lead to loose steering.

Separate note I have notice some outer edge tire wear on all GMT800s. Look at the tires in the parking lots of rides like yours. I think it has something to do with the actual steering components. Take for example newer F150s, the tires do not wear the edges by having the whole wheel hub angle towards the turn. So say you turn left the the wheel should look like \ -- \ and turn right / --/. Where as our rides look more like l--l when we turn so the load of tire increases on the edges due to vehicle weight and speed. You can apply some negative camber so the wheels look like /--\. This will wear a little bit more on the inside but even the tread across the tire if you drive a lot of curves. Only apply a small degree to the inner most acceptable camber angle during alignment.

 

[91RS]

Do you have a printout of the alignment specs after your last alignment? Most places won't adjust caster or camber unless it is completely out of spec (and some won't even then). Most GM full size trucks end up right at the negative edge of the spec and most people don't rotate their tires enough, so it wears out the insides of the tires. Plus, the NBS trucks are bad about the pitman and idler arms wearing out causing tire wear as well. Occasionally, the inner tie-rods go as well. Yes, the steering boxes get play in them but that will not affect tire wear at all. Any shop worth a flip should know the box can be adjusted to correct play when the steering wheel is centered.