Tips and tricks to have a nice ride.
- Thread starter Diego93
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If you live in an area where they use salt, keep up on prevention with fluid film, or equivalent. This alone will help prevent TONS of issues down the road, and make repairs underneath easier. Stick to service intervals on the 5k mark for oil, 40-50k for transmission and transfer case, 75k for differentials, and the list can go on.
Disable AFM, or plan to change oil very religiously. Install updated trans thermostat (or bypass - many good threads) to help your 6 speed last past 100k.
Disable AFM, or plan to change oil very religiously. Install updated trans thermostat (or bypass - many good threads) to help your 6 speed last past 100k.
Thank you so much, i’ll look on the forum threads to start doing the mods
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Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Nice find, and I'm sure that you will be happy with it.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Nice find, and I'm sure that you will be happy with it.
tom3
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With no warranty I'd disable the AFM cylinder de-activation, get a tune module to improve the torque converter lockup, and do a trans. filter, fluid change, and put the revised trans cooling control valve as mentioned above. Should have a long term reliable machine with this.
preventative maintenance is helpful, if you address known things at the proper intervals this reduces the chances of a breakdown or more costly repairs.
things like "coolant" ya the manual says it is good for 100k miles, but that is total BS.
you know little things like brake fluid, did you know that brake fluid is "clear"? take the brake fluid reservoir cap off and look in there, I can assure it is not clear, it is burnt and black.
unless by chance it has been flushed recently.
differential gear oil is also mostly clear "more golden" actually, not black.... or glittery, lol
at 40k I would flush or have everything flushed, coolant, brake, differntials, transmission, new belts, inspect wiring especially in engine compartment and anywere else it can rub.
clean the intake, inspect the brakes, check for leaks, check tires for unusual wear, look for nails, screws. inspect the suspension/bushings. check and clean battery terminals/test battery. check starter cable (these can get burnt) there are some out there with poor insulation.
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All great advice above. As mentioned if I had bought a used vehicle I would absolutely go through and replace all the fluids..drop the trans pan and do a fluid/filter replacement not just a fluid flush/replace like the dealers do. And absolutely disable the AFM either via a plug in device like a Range AFM disabler or better yet via a tune. And get the Surecool thermostat bypass for the transmission.
koachdaddy
Member
Everything above and a couple not mentioned previously:
Vacuum pump delete- more prevalent in the earlier years, but there was a TSB (recall?) issued to replace them. For me, the idea of the chineasm piece self-destructing and sending shrapnel into the engine was enough to warrant the delete. Especially since they aren't used on Vettes/Maro's and the OEM block-off plug kit is literally $10.
Catch can- do your own research and make an informed decision. Catching a couple ounces of oil between oil changes is that much not getting cooked onto the intake valves.
Headlight switch- I need full control of the headlights and removed the spring which automatically returns the switch from OFF to AUTO.
OnStar delete- controversial, but perform in-depth research and make an informed decision on GM's 'safety services' and everything that comes with the program.
Vacuum pump delete- more prevalent in the earlier years, but there was a TSB (recall?) issued to replace them. For me, the idea of the chineasm piece self-destructing and sending shrapnel into the engine was enough to warrant the delete. Especially since they aren't used on Vettes/Maro's and the OEM block-off plug kit is literally $10.
Catch can- do your own research and make an informed decision. Catching a couple ounces of oil between oil changes is that much not getting cooked onto the intake valves.
Headlight switch- I need full control of the headlights and removed the spring which automatically returns the switch from OFF to AUTO.
OnStar delete- controversial, but perform in-depth research and make an informed decision on GM's 'safety services' and everything that comes with the program.
Good info. I didn't know there was a delete for the vacuum pump! So, I put it into the Google machine and found an excellent writeup on the silverado forum along with a video. Super simple to do, block off plugs already ordered. Thanks for sharing!
koachdaddy
Member
NOTE- since I'm using a catch-can and didn't want to disturb those hoses, I had to figure out a separate vacuum source. Let me tell ya, the MIT port (before the throttle body) ain't it! Almost cruised right through a stop light as the 'power' in power brakes wasn't there. Ended up buying/tapping a throttle body spacer to get sufficient vacuum pressure needed to function properly.
Could
you provide a link to the throttle body spacer you bought for this? I’d like to do the same but anything I’m finding that’s for these isn’t thick enough to drill/tap for a connection.
koachdaddy
Member
Yeah, I ran into the same problem and bought an Airaid at American Trucks. Pricey indeed, but purchased from them for various reasons (mil discount and had a credit balance).
Purchased a tap/die set from Harbor Freight and attempted to perform in a vice...bad decision. Watched a couple how-to vids for my 'YouTube certification' (lol) on tapping aluminum and found using a drill press, motor OFF, and hand feeding the pressure while rotating the cresent wrench was the way to go.
T.B. SPACER - CAD/CHEVY/GMC ESCALADE/SUBURBAN V8-6.2L F/I
T.B. SPACER; CHEV/GMC TRUCK, V8-6.2L F/I, 2015-2023
www.airaid.com
Yeah, I ran into the same problem and bought an Airaid at American Trucks. Pricey indeed, but purchased from them for various reasons (mil discount and had a credit balance).
Purchased a tap/die set from Harbor Freight and attempted to perform in a vice...bad decision. Watched a couple how-to vids for my 'YouTube certification' (lol) on tapping aluminum and found using a drill press, motor OFF, and hand feeding the pressure while rotating the cresent wrench was the way to go.
T.B. SPACER - CAD/CHEVY/GMC ESCALADE/SUBURBAN V8-6.2L F/I
T.B. SPACER; CHEV/GMC TRUCK, V8-6.2L F/I, 2015-2023
PERFECT! Thanks so much! One other question….i know the hose would be a 3/8” ID vacuum rated hose…so the male end for the hose would be 3/8…what size did you tap the spacer for? 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT? I guess either would work assuming the spacer is thick enough to allow it…but is a 1/8” NPT too small of an orifice hole for enough vacuum? Or should it be 1/4” NPT to allow enough flow/vacuum for the brake booster volume?
koachdaddy
Member
Ah yes, more Harbor Freight purchases. 3 different sizes came in the kit and I chose the 1/4" NPT for use with a 3/8's hose...similar to the stock setup to ensure proper vacuum pressure.
Good link JIC you haven't watched any yet:
tap/die set: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html
3/8" 1/4" NPT used: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-professional-air-hose-repair-kit-5-piece-63957.html
Finally bought an Airaid spacer!…have the fitting and tap ready…..one last question if you don’t mind…where on the spacer did you drill/tap for the hose fitting? On the right side as your looking at it?
koachdaddy
Member
I tapped the three o'clock position (driver's side) as looking at it during installation so that it's pointing straight to where the brake booster hose would come from.
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