There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[strutaeng]

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

 

[OR VietVet]

Update on progress on the F150:

Got the transmission installed and torque converter attached to the flexplate, all related harnesses routed and plugged in and tethered to their attaching points, catalytic converter heat shields installed and the catalytic converter/y-pipe assembly installed, transmission crossmember installed and after the mounts were all checked for binding-all mounts torqued to spec. Some people do not do this mounts step that way and can end up with a drivetrain vibration if not done correctly. Then the shoe dropped. Found that the oxygen sensors were incorrect. Getting correct sensors this morning. Want to install the front sensors before installing the transfer case and front driveshaft. Will install sensors, transfer case, driveshafts and fill all fluids and start the vehicle today. Just have the transmission install pics before the crossmember install. More pics tonight or tomorrow.

 

[OR VietVet]

Got the F150 running today. Charge a/c tomorrow and road test and be done:

 

[Tahoe14]

Owner should have a big smile on his face when he picks it up.

 

[OR VietVet]

Went to roadtest the F150 and experienced a shudder and lack of power. Transmission Fault at dash and CEL. Codes recovered: PO731, PO750 and PO753. Traced to a failed Shift Solenoid A. Showed 20 megaohms instead of between 20-30 ohms. Shift Solenoid B was supposed to be same ohms and read at 27 ohms. Torque Converter Clutch solenoid spec is between 10-16 ohms and measured at 15 ohms. Talked to transmission rebuilder and explained that if going to reuse electrical component, should test it. They did not. Gonna go ahead and install all 3 solenoids on Monday and roadtest again. Everything else shows fine with no leaks. My neighbor/customer is all good.

 

[OR VietVet]

Took my girl's K2500 dash apart and removed the old radio and tuner and equalizer. Installed new Retro Sound radio and hooked up existing speakers. Figuring out the new mounting location for the controller took the longest. Plus, the existing ribbon connector, that comes preinstalled inside the controller, will not reach to the back of radio head. Had to remove the cover on the controller and plug in the longer ribbon that came attached with the left and right speaker control harness. I could have missed that part but did not see in the instructions about that. I made a management decision. If the radio head mounts right on the controller, then I would have been ok. Reinstalled the equalizer body, back in the hole for now. If anyone has a cubby hole fix for that, please tell me. Anyway, she can drive now with no transistor radio.

 

[OR VietVet]

I just showed my girl a couple videos of what I will be doing when I replace her valve stems seals on her 5.7. She had heard me talking about keeping the valves up with either air or rope/silicone tubing. I showed her the two variations via you tube. She will be my official assistant the day I do the seals replacement. I told her I will be using the rope/tubing method because of no hose in the way and no air compressor running noise. She said, "You are going to do that on all 16 valves?" "Yes I am dear". She will fret and worry till we do a few starts and the "blue smoke out the exhaust" is gone.

Opinions from those that have done the job. Adjust valve lash? I tighten till there is no play in the push rod. No slop back and forth and no spin. Then I do a full tightening turn on the rocker arm nut. Different methods?

 

[OR VietVet]

F150 update: The transmission shop replaced all solenoids, fresh fluid, labor and tow charge....all at no cost. Truck runs great and shifts as should and my neighbor is happy. The 2.5 month ordeal is over.

 

[exp500]

I just showed my girl a couple videos of what I will be doing when I replace her valve stems seals on her 5.7. She had heard me talking about keeping the valves up with either air or rope/silicone tubing. I showed her the two variations via you tube. She will be my official assistant the day I do the seals replacement. I told her I will be using the rope/tubing method because of no hose in the way and no air compressor running noise. She said, "You are going to do that on all 16 valves?" "Yes I am dear". She will fret and worry till we do a few starts and the "blue smoke out the exhaust" is gone.

Opinions from those that have done the job. Adjust valve lash? I tighten till there is no play in the push rod. No slop back and forth and no spin. Then I do a full tightening turn on the rocker arm nut. Different methods?

Valve lash on all MY Cast iron smallblocks for many 40+ years has been Loosen till noisy, tighten till quiet, then 1/8 turn tighter. For customer vehicles- loosen till noisy, tighten till quiet , add 1 full turn. I've done every variation of tighten from 1/8- full turn. never more than one. Rocker arm clips or cut down valve covers keeps mess under control.(1/8 turn is close to solid lifter performance with less Valve train headaches and cam failures.)

For Air hold work I use a Compression gauge like fitting with a valve stem inside. A little safety in case of a kicked air hose disconnecting. I recommend Air hold over Tubing. No partially open valves to get springs or keepers back on and faster too ! If I remember correctly they were Foster brand air fittings.

 

[OR VietVet]

Looks like my next job at the shop in JC, Oregon will be an engine replacement in a 2015 3500HD Duramax crew cab. Doing research now and looks like will be lifting the crew cab off the frame and exposing the engine for the engine swap. I have watched 6 videos of doing this and looks like I should be ready to separate crew cab body from frame during a one day shift. Then roll the frame and engine/transmission out from under it.

Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome. Of course, pics along the process.

 

[OR VietVet]

Neighbor drove the F150, recent engine/transmission swap truck, from Eugene, Oregon to Ridgefield, Wa. today and back. Said the truck ran smooth and never missed a beat and all fluids look good.

 

[TollKeeper]

Your biggest thing, with it seems every GM Body on Frame, is if the body to frame bolts come loose. I think I remember that most of them are exposed, so that if they are frozen, its just a matter of cutting/torching them off. But I seem to remember that 2 of them are not fully exposed, and go to a internal position in the cab with caged nuts.

I could be misremembering thou.

 

[OR VietVet]

Looks to have easily exposed bolts/nuts and this is a rust free state. No rust on this truck.

 

[89Suburban]

Does the front clip come off then the cab or the whole shebang at once?

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

Previous neighborhood customer's husband approached me yesterday and has a 2008 Pontiac Torrent and wanted me to do brake pads all around and no rotors and replace left rear ABS sensor. I did pull ABS codes and did see that there was a code for "erratic signal at left rear ABS sensor". Turns out another shop told him what he needed. I said I can do it but will replace the rotors. He said no rotors.

This is the husband of a recent neighborhood customer that has a Jeep Cherokee that had very intermittent dash notifications warning lights and CEL. This was also a "start/stop" vehicle. Traced down to having the wrong battery installed by husband because was cheaper. Needed an AGM battery and he did not install an AGM battery. She finally installed the AGM battery and her intermittent dash lights problems went away.

I told the husband that I will not do job without rotors and he accused me of just racking up the bill. Then I reminded him that I do not make any money on parts and there is no additional labor for rotor replacement. I also reminded him that I get their parts for them at my cost with a military discount. He also wanted it done in 2 days and I am already booked out. He threw a fit like a little girl. I walked away knowing I dodged a bullet and am so glad that I work on only "what I want and when I want".

 

[Tahoe14]

You did the right thing and you really shut him down telling him no extra money for rotor replacement and parts at cost. Not a whole lot he could say but sounds like he continued to run his mouth. He must be a real a**hole.

 

[OR VietVet]

You did the right thing and you really shut him down telling him no extra money for rotor replacement and parts at cost. Not a whole lot he could say but sounds like he continued to run his mouth. He must be a real a**hole.

He is an ass for sure. His mother-in-law lives next door to us and he and wife live 1 block down.

 

[89Suburban]

Is that you narrating? You sound younger than you lead on.

 

[OR VietVet]

Is that you narrating? You sound younger than you lead on.

No....no no no no.....I blush.....