Suspension for Dummies

[Bloody Knuckle]

I have a 2011 Chevy Tahoe with the z55 suspension package. I tow a heavy trailer and camper great distances. Last fall I blew a shock or air bladder again and would like to convert to a conventional system. Buying a new truck is not in the cards so I need it to tow more like a pick-up to get the most use out of it. I see folks really like Bilstein parts but I am unable to find the system for z55. I am not interested in the resistors for getting rid of the idiot lights, just the 4 shocks and springs. I have read almost all the threads on this topic but have not found Bilsteins for my Tahoe. Is Arnott comparable?

Thank you

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

I have a 2011 Chevy Tahoe with the z55 suspension package. I tow a heavy trailer and camper great distances. Last fall I blew a shock or air bladder again and would like to convert to a conventional system. Buying a new truck is not in the cards so I need it to tow more like a pick-up to get the most use out of it. I see folks really like Bilstein parts but I am unable to find the system for z55. I am not interested in the resistors for getting rid of the idiot lights, just the 4 shocks and springs. I have read almost all the threads on this topic but have not found Bilsteins for my Tahoe. Is Arnott comparable?

Thank you

Hello, anyone......

 

[swathdiver]

I have a 2011 Chevy Tahoe with the z55 suspension package. I tow a heavy trailer and camper great distances. Last fall I blew a shock or air bladder again and would like to convert to a conventional system. Buying a new truck is not in the cards so I need it to tow more like a pick-up to get the most use out of it. I see folks really like Bilstein parts but I am unable to find the system for z55. I am not interested in the resistors for getting rid of the idiot lights, just the 4 shocks and springs. I have read almost all the threads on this topic but have not found Bilsteins for my Tahoe. Is Arnott comparable?

Thank you

Welcome to the forum Mark! Do you want plain shocks without load leveling? Arnott would be self-adjusting shocks on the rear. Your Z55 of course has a compressor and load leveling gear in addition to the air shocks.

So if you want the Nivomat/Arnott style rears, you'll look for options that come with the ZW7/G69 suspension package.

If you want plain old dumb shocks look for just ZW7.

I have the numbers for my truck but not yours.

Plug your VIN in here and have a look:

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

Then you can go aftermarket if desired.

 

[randeez]

mornin, maybe someone will chime in with the correct part numbers, or i would just search for same year without the magnetic ride control and rear air assist, all the parts mount exactly the same
there are no air bladders on the front shocks, the magnetic ride control is all that is up front..if you use a different shock with out the resistor it just lights up a couple of messages on the dash, same as the rear. the resistors are like $20 for 4, small price to not have to clear messaged every time you start truck

rear: if you pull the air assist, i think the springs are different for with and without air.. i imagine youll be left with the lighter duty of the two. you can grab the heavy duty spring or go with the airlift style kit that puts a bladder inside the coil...which you may want to do anyway with heavy trailer

 

[iamdub]

So you want to get rid of just the auto-leveling (air) part of the Autoride system?

There aren't any real options for this since removing the air system can be viewed as a safety concern since the air system is part of the vehicle's load capacity rating. Removing the air portion makes the coils 100% responsible for the load. This is something aftermarket manufacturers wouldn't wanna get involved in. Arnott's solution is a heavier-duty coil and accompanying shock package, but the shocks don't have the electronically variable valving so they come with Arnott's "bypass module" (resistors with a fancier name and sold at a much higher price).

For what you wanna do, I say you just disable the air system and add a set of Airlift helper bags. You'll be able to keep your variable electronic damping in the shocks and will have the necessary air support when towing. Actually, you'll have more capacity and reliability with the load bags.

Although, I wonder if you can connect the OEM compressor to the load bags so the system still functions automatically. It'd be like keeping it stock, but with the air bladders replaced with air bellows and relocated to inside the coils. All you'd need is to connect the OEM air lines to the load bag's port. I think they're different sizes, but maybe the OEM air line will fit inside the load bag's air line? You could apply some epoxy and slip one inside the other and have a simple upgrade while maintaining all original functions.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Welcome to the forum Mark! Do you want plain shocks without load leveling? Arnott would be self-adjusting shocks on the rear. Your Z55 of course has a compressor and load leveling gear in addition to the air shocks.

So if you want the Nivomat/Arnott style rears, you'll look for options that come with the ZW7/G69 suspension package.

If you want plain old dumb shocks look for just ZW7.

I have the numbers for my truck but not yours.

Plug your VIN in here and have a look:

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

Then you can go aftermarket if desired.

Thank you some solutions. I'm just looking for the shocks, not load leveling since I use a weight distribution hitch that pulls the rear up anyway. Some forums mentioned adding a airbag in the coil or helper when just going to regular shocks??? Almost overwhelmingly people like the Bilstein 4600 when doing this project, but it says it won't work with z55, or police model.....why not? I thought all the chassis would be the same. Unless they think I'm trying to replace the factory type scenario utilizing the air compressor and electronic system.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

mornin, maybe someone will chime in with the correct part numbers, or i would just search for same year without the magnetic ride control and rear air assist, all the parts mount exactly the same
there are no air bladders on the front shocks, the magnetic ride control is all that is up front..if you use a different shock with out the resistor it just lights up a couple of messages on the dash, same as the rear. the resistors are like $20 for 4, small price to not have to clear messaged every time you start truck

rear: if you pull the air assist, i think the springs are different for with and without air.. i imagine youll be left with the lighter duty of the two. you can grab the heavy duty spring or go with the airlift style kit that puts a bladder inside the coil...which you may want to do anyway with heavy trailer

That is really helpful information easy for me to grasp. Thank you, you answered my questions.

 

[swathdiver]

Thank you some solutions. I'm just looking for the shocks, not load leveling since I use a weight distribution hitch that pulls the rear up anyway. Some forums mentioned adding a airbag in the coil or helper when just going to regular shocks??? Almost overwhelmingly people like the Bilstein 4600 when doing this project, but it says it won't work with z55, or police model.....why not? I thought all the chassis would be the same. Unless they think I'm trying to replace the factory type scenario utilizing the air compressor and electronic system.

Yes, when they say it's for this or that it pertains to that installed suspension system. You can put dumb shocks and matching springs in place of the originals and disable the air/magnetic or whatever was there originally.

Putting Air Lift springs inside the coils is a common mod to help keep the trucks level; same thing we used to do when drag racing.

So yes, you can go 4600s or 5100s and call it a day shocks wise.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Yes, when they say it's for this or that it pertains to that installed suspension system. You can put dumb shocks and matching springs in place of the originals and disable the air/magnetic or whatever was there originally.

Putting Air Lift springs inside the coils is a common mod to help keep the trucks level; same thing we used to do when drag racing.

So yes, you can go 4600s or 5100s and call it a day shocks wise.
Very helpful and thank you for getting back to me with great information. Helpful site!

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Yes, when they say it's for this or that it pertains to that installed suspension system. You can put dumb shocks and matching springs in place of the originals and disable the air/magnetic or whatever was there originally.

Putting Air Lift springs inside the coils is a common mod to help keep the trucks level; same thing we used to do when drag racing.

So yes, you can go 4600s or 5100s and call it a day shocks wise.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Oh, one more question..... Would you be so helpful as to advise me what if any type of airbag in the new rear spring I should use? I do plan on purchasing the billstein 4600 conversion kit and new springs as well. Also will replace front shocks as well since everything has the same miles on it (125k). Would the new springs be sufficient enough? It's my understanding that when going to the gas shocks they recommend changing the springs since they will be supporting the load and the auto level will no longer be in play. Thus, I'm assuming they will be heavier duty than the originals I'm taking out.
Really sorry if I'm annoying anyone with the same question different ways.
Appreciate the help!
Mark

 

[iamdub]

Oh, one more question..... Would you be so helpful as to advise me what if any type of airbag in the new rear spring I should use? I do plan on purchasing the billstein 4600 conversion kit and new springs as well. Also will replace front shocks as well since everything has the same miles on it (125k). Would the new springs be sufficient enough? It's my understanding that when going to the gas shocks they recommend changing the springs since they will be supporting the load and the auto level will no longer be in play. Thus, I'm assuming they will be heavier duty than the originals I'm taking out.
Really sorry if I'm annoying anyone with the same question different ways.
Appreciate the help!
Mark

That's why I mentioned just adding the air bags to what you have now. You would have the softer ride when not towing and be able to air up the bags for the times when you do, rather than just have firm heavy-duty springs at all times.

When you said you weren't interested in the resistors to turn off the lights, I thought you meant you wanted to keep the Autoride system functional instead of tricking it and just wanted a solution for getting rid of the factory air system.

 

[woody73]

I am doing my z55 delite right now i used KYB SR4079 Strut-Plus complete with springs And for the rear i used KYB 555054 shocks with the airlift bags and airlift compressor kit with gauge and controls. And replaced all upper and lower control arms. The airlift bags are a bear to get them in the springs. Everything bolts up fine no mods. And I'm sure these are better shocks than arnotts kit.

AIR-60769
Air Springs, Rear, Kit
(Mfr. #: 60769)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$85.99

1

$85.99

AIR-25854
Air Compressor, Heavy Duty, Load Controller I System, 12 V DC, 10 amps, Dash Panel, Wiring Harness, Kit
(Mfr. #: 25854)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$225.99

1

$225.99

 

[iamdub]

I am doing my z55 delite right now i used KYB SR4079 Strut-Plus complete with springs And for the rear i used KYB 555054 shocks with the airlift bags and airlift compressor kit with gauge and controls. And replaced all upper and lower control arms. The airlift bags are a bear to get them in the springs. Everything bolts up fine no mods. And I'm sure these are better shocks than arnotts kit.

AIR-60769
Air Springs, Rear, Kit
(Mfr. #: 60769)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$85.99

1

$85.99

AIR-25854
Air Compressor, Heavy Duty, Load Controller I System, 12 V DC, 10 amps, Dash Panel, Wiring Harness, Kit
(Mfr. #: 25854)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$225.99

1

$225.99

I know it's late now for you, but I wanted to mention this for the OP: I used a vacuum pump to deflate and squish the air bags I removed from some coils. I think a good shop vac with the hose put squarely on the top of the bag over the air hose port would accomplish the same. Flatten the bag with the vacuum, hold it squished up and slip it between the coils.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

That's why I mentioned just adding the air bags to what you have now. You would have the softer ride when not towing and be able to air up the bags for the times when you do, rather than just have firm heavy-duty springs at all times.

When you said you weren't interested in the resistors to turn off the lights, I thought you meant you wanted to keep the Autoride system functional instead of tricking it and just wanted a solution for getting rid of the factory air system.

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Good morning! Can I vent on this forum?
I am a very handy person but automotive is my weakness. Mainly my dad didn't work on cars so I never picked it up...... I am on this forum because of local mechanics, dealership and even buddies that didn't want to be involved in this project or just dont
know enough and are not interested in doing the research. Guess it's just easier for them to install OEM and be done, like robots. What happened to figuring stuff out, saving money and helping out? Maybe it's the geographical area I reside in, or just my generation??
You folks are here because you have knowledge and passion for our vehicles which cost a fortune these days. You also don't mind lending your experience or expertise and I appreciate that.
I'll post my results soon and hope this helps another.
Note: I was going back and forth through my notes I've accumulated this week and revisited some websites. Apparently as of a few days ago Arnott no longer sells to the public. You have to go through a dealer. Once again tying our hands financially!

-Mark
New Hampshire

 

[randeez]

most people are smart enough not to listen to our advice, but thanks!

seriously though i know what you mean, friend whom i have do routine maintenance and send other to all the time is the same way... if it wasnt specifically designed for whatever application some part is used for he wont touch it. i bring up "wild" ideas all the time and thats the first question i get, if it doesnt work o well out a few bux and a little bit of time.

 

[outerorbiter]

I am doing my z55 delite right now i used KYB SR4079 Strut-Plus complete with springs And for the rear i used KYB 555054 shocks with the airlift bags and airlift compressor kit with gauge and controls. And replaced all upper and lower control arms. The airlift bags are a bear to get them in the springs. Everything bolts up fine no mods. And I'm sure these are better shocks than arnotts kit.

AIR-60769
Air Springs, Rear, Kit
(Mfr. #: 60769)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$85.99

1

$85.99

AIR-25854
Air Compressor, Heavy Duty, Load Controller I System, 12 V DC, 10 amps, Dash Panel, Wiring Harness, Kit
(Mfr. #: 25854)

Ready to Ship
Ground

$225.99

1

$225.99

Are you using the factory rear coils?

 

[Bloody Knuckle]

Are you using the factory rear coils?

I think I need to upgrade them if I eliminate the air bag shock. So yes, but a heavier duty.

 

[kbuskill]

Hopefully this will help muddy the waters for you... Errrrr.... I mean, clear things up.

You will definitely want to swap the rear springs out if you tow and are eliminating the auto level control.

The Z71 rear springs are a popular swap from what I understand.

The Air Lift helper bladders/bags will give you an extra 1000lbs load carrying capacity.

You DO NOT want to try hooking the factory air ride compressor to the Air Lift helper bags because it will rupture them.

The factory air ride compressor is capable of air pressure up to 150+ PSI.

The Air Lift helper bags are rated to a maximum of like 35-50 PSI... I can't remember right off.

If you tow ALOT and don't mind a firmer ride I would suggest either the factory rear shocks for a PPV Tahoe OR the KYB Monomax shocks for the rear of a Suburban/Tahoe.

The Monomax are advertised as 40% firmer and are designed for tow rigs.


Hope this helps.