Suburban rear sway bar on Yukon Denali?

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K2 Kaiju

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Sold my 18 burb and left my Hellwigs on the rig like a moron as I was planning on a different platform and my back wasn't up for it. I still have the original take off sway bars. Hotchkis says about their sway bars: "the rear is 80% stiffer than stock for Tahoe, Yukon and Escalade and 45% for Suburban, Yukon XL and Escalade ESV." So apparently my free old burb bar is 35% stiffer than stock? Anyone tried this, and is there any way to make them adjustable like the Hellwigs?
 

Joseph Garcia

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I cannot help you with your question, but others will chime in.

I do agree that you were a moron to let the Hellwig sway bars go, even if you did think that you wouldn't need them (you could have sold them). :banghead:
 

CMoore711

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Hotchkis says about their sway bars: "the rear is 80% stiffer than stock for Tahoe, Yukon and Escalade and 45% for Suburban, Yukon XL and Escalade ESV." So apparently my free old burb bar is 35% stiffer than stock? Anyone tried this, and is there any way to make them adjustable like the Hellwigs?

I'm not sure I interpret the Hotchkis description on their sway bars the same as you and this may deserve some clarification.

Hotchkis offers sway bars that fit BOTH the SWB and LWB models of the GM full-size SUVs; The same part number for Escalade, Escalade ESV, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, and Yukon XL. Because it is the same part number and actual sway bar for all the platforms I interpret their comment on the difference in stiffness and being lower on the LWB models is a result of the same sway bar responding to the longer wheel-base and additional vehicle weight. Because of those factors the same sway bar will not feel as stiff on the LWB models as the SWB models.

I did look into OEM part numbers for the OEM rear sway bars on the SWB models versus the LWB models; GMPartsdirect actually does list DIFFERENT part numbers for the SWB models (GM #22809843) versus the LWB models (GM #10383661). Based on GM identifying the rear sway bars with two different part numbers I suppose it is possible that the OEM rear sway bar for the LWB model is stiffer than the OEM sway bar for the SWB? But that also may not be the reason for the different part numbers too?

It's not too difficult to remove and reinstall the rear sway bar so just do it to it and let us know.

All that being said; I definitely would not try to attempt to drill holes into the stock rear sway bar as to "make it adjustable". There's not nearly as much "meat" there in those stock mounting locations to be adding a new mounting hole spaced far enough to make enough of a difference. You'd most likely just be reducing the strength of the mounting location of the sway bar which creates other risks/issues.
 
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K2 Kaiju

K2 Kaiju

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I think I'm going to bite the bullet and just get new. Hoping for Black Friday sale...
 

BlaineBug

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One would have to measure the diameter of the anti-sway bars with a caliper to determine if a difference exists.
 
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K2 Kaiju

K2 Kaiju

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I put a caliper on the old sway bars, and they are both 1" in diameter, however the suburban bar is much heavier so the Hotchkis claims appear to be true. The Hotchkis is 1 3/16" and about as heavy as suburban bar...
 

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BlaineBug

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Interesting observation! Is it possible the lighter bars are hollow even though they share the same exterior dimensions?
 
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K2 Kaiju

K2 Kaiju

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Interesting observation! Is it possible the lighter bars are hollow even though they share the same exterior dimensions?
Either solid or thicker sidewall - I dont really have a scale, but it seems almost twice as heavy but it still has the links still on it.
 

BlaineBug

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Either solid or thicker sidewall - I dont really have a scale, but it seems almost twice as heavy but it still has the links still on it.
I wouldn't mind this upgrade. Do you know if there are any weight differences in the front bars?
 

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