Speaker Install ?'s

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GoTigers

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For a '99 Tahoe, will a 1" spacer on the rear door speaker help with a speaker that has a mounting depth of at least 2.5"?

Will a Precision Power A204.2 be sufficient for powering the front and rear door speakers assuming that the speakers are rated at 60W-100W RMS? Or should I step up to the A404.2?
 

Jaycenk

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Rears mount in the door panel and not the actual door so there is no recess behind it. If they are flat on the front side they will be close to the factory speaker grill but may be able to fit. I used a polk audio 651s with 1/4 inch adapters and front mounted it on the door panel for the rears and fits fine but there is not much room at all behind that. It clears the grill fine and I could have used a 651 and had a directional tweeter.
As for the amp you should use something that can match the output of those speakers. I use a kicker 350.4, great amp for mids and highs and makes 60 or 65 watt rms to all 4. also the alpine 300 is a good one. They make 50 watt rms x 4. I have seen those new on ebay for 130. I am going to be picking one up for the camaro tonight.
 

BigDaddy13440

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I'm running a Kenwood 40x4 amp to power my door and rear speakers, they scream with only 40 watts. I don't have the gains turned to even 1/3 the way, and don't even come close to maxing out my JVC head unit (volume to 50, never go past 36 or so).
 

moviewithnotitle

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For a '99 Tahoe, will a 1" spacer on the rear door speaker help with a speaker that has a mounting depth of at least 2.5"?

Will a Precision Power A204.2 be sufficient for powering the front and rear door speakers assuming that the speakers are rated at 60W-100W RMS? Or should I step up to the A404.2?

You should have plenty of depth, but a spacer can only help.

Those PPI Art Series are the BOMB! Had a few of them back in the day...you can crank them all day long with little to no issues. Just watch them if you start dropping the Ohm rating with to many speakers attached, they get fussy with that. But I assume your only going to run 1pair of speakers so you should be great with this config.
 
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GoTigers

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Thanks for the help guys. I may look at the A204.2 for my needs. One other question, where might I locate an opening in the firewall for the amp power wire? I can't seem to find one and now it just started to rain, so any help would be appreciated.
 

quietfly

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I second coming through the passenger side. Drill a hole, get a rubber grommet, then coat hole in silicone
 

Jaycenk

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I have an auto so I used the punch out area for the clutch to drill a 3/4 hole.
 
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GoTigers

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I ended up using the hole behind the cooler overflow tank. As far as the rear doors go, I went with the Boston Acoustics S65RC 6-1/2" coaxial. How do you recommend mounting them. The factory speakers were a tad bigger and there isn't much material left to drill through. I was thinking of making up little metal tabs and attaching the them to the door panels and then attaching the speakers to the tabs.

My most serious problem, however, has turned out to be the sub. A friend of mine gave me a JL audio 12W3(old school) hooked up to my PPI A200.2. It worked fine for about 5 minutes and then the foam surround deteriorated. I have since replaced the foam surround but now when I hook up the sub I get a white noise whine along with a thumping noise. I checked the ground for the amp and it seems fine. The light on the amp is green. I hooked another speaker up to the amp and the same thing happened. I also took the sub and hooked it up to the wires for the rear door and it played music. I really like the amp and pray that it isn't blown. I really don't think it is but something has happened. Nothing has changed since I had originally had it hooked up and working other than the foam surround replacement. any help or advice would be most appreciated.
 

TahoeJim

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Caution against the 1" spacer idea.....your speakers will hit the edge of the back seats with the seats up or folded down. Don't use any more than a 1/2" thick spacer, that's cutting it close as it is. And you're not going to be able to use the stock grills....time for some customizing and fabrication.

Best bet, IMO, if you need to use a spacer...

I ordered 1/2" molded plastic spacers from Uneek Supply and they were a whopping $10 including shipping. They're on ebay or you can call them directly and buy them. Throw away the fasteners included for attaching the spacers to the door panels...some screws and those tin speed metal nuts. Get some real nuts and bolts.... phillips head #10 x 1-1/2" machine screws, washers and nuts. Bolt the spacer to the door panel, then screw the speaker into the spacer with regular sheet metal screws. That's a rock solid mount.
 

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