Something killing batteries in my 99 Tahoe? 130,000 miles 5.7

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2Door99Chevy

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Hi everyone, this is my first post on here. Hoping someone on here can help me out. Having what I think is an electrical issue, and as we all know, those are always the most fun :smh:

My truck is a 4WD 99 2 Door Tahoe with just over 130,000 on the clock. Mostly all original except for a few minor upgrades. I bought it in Memphis Tenn a couple summers ago, and the battery that was in it when I bought it had always performed fine up until this past November. At that time it started to take a few extra seconds to start the engine. It wasnt cranking slow, just taking longer to start the engine. So I took the truck to the local Interstate Battery dealer and they found it had a bad cell, and so I purchased a new Interstate on 11/14/13. Dont have the model# off hand but I told him give me the highest CCA you have for my truck. Bought it, dropped it in and life was good again... Up until last week

Last week here in Cleveland as with most of the midwest it got VERY cold. When I got out of work late Monday night it was a ball-freezing -12, and the Tahoe would not start. She cranked and cranked but just didnt have enough to fire up the 5.7. I blamed this on the fact that it was freakeshly cold. Next day before work, same thing, wouldnt start. Had to put it on the fast charge and then it started ok. As it warmed up into the 20s wensday and thursday she still would not start on her own, so now I knew I had a definite problem. I tested battery voltage friday morning after sitting overninght and it was dead at 12v even. Still enough to turn all the instument panel lights and work the power locks and dome light etc, but nowhere near enough to start the vehicle. Put it on the 40A charge for only a couple minutes, got her started, drove down to the Interstate dealer. They tested it, and to my surprise, found a weak cell. The guy said it was unusual but it happens. They didnt have my exact battery in stock because they were all behind on their stock from the deep freeze that basically shut down Indiana, so they gave me a loaner battery to put in until mine came in stock hopefully this wensday. Truck was good the rest of Friday and Saturday, then Sunday, would barely start. The battery had just enough to start the truck but I mean barely. I left work last night (11 hour shifts) and she started ok, this morning a little hesitation but started.

I should have tested battery voltage this morning before doing anything but I forgot. But I tested charging voltage which is like almost a steady 14.46-14.49 which I think means the alternator is oing its job, also not overcharging either which would kill a battery.

I did an old fashioned curent draw test with my digital multimeter with the truck off, negative cable removed. It had a 0.029 A draw (with the dome light off and hood light disconnected), which I beleive is still acceptable, and I pulled all the underhood fuses and relays one at a time and nothing changed until I pulled the 50A BATT maxifuse, current draw dropped to 0.024 A, put that back in and when I pulled the 40A IGN A maxifuse current draw dropped to only 0.022 A. Thats like a 7 milliamp draw. Is that abnormal? Is something in the ignition system draining and slowly killing car batteries?

Now its very possible that Interstate I just bought just had a slowly bad cell that took til that deep freeze to finish it off, and that this "loaner" battery they gave me isnt exactly the freshest battery on the block. But I'm starting to feel like I have a problem going on here.

If that is too high of a current draw when I place the IGN fuse back in, then what could be some of the things causing that? Some things I already thought were
-Ignition Module?
-Coil?
-Ignition Switch or Instrument Panel wiring?

Please guys if you made it through all this let me know what you think? I dont think I have a problem in my charging system at all but its possible too I guess? Anythings possible on a 15 year old truck with 130K!

Thanks!,
Bryan
 

kcb37

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You might try leaving the underhood light disconnected.
If I recall correctly they have a switch in the housing/socket that operates by the hood opening and closing. (angle the hood is at) They can get corroded, seized and stay on.
Sure you would have noticed the dome light staying on.

Have the alt tested to. Could be good voltage but not enough amperage.
 

SunlitComet

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your amp draw is fine. you should also be able to start with less then twelve volts when cranking. suggest looking for damaged wires or connectors related to your starter and ignition system. the cold air might be building up moisture in the ignition parts preventing running.
 

sil80redtop

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I'm having the exact same issue. New battery was completely shot after being connected for about two weeks. Won't even take a charge. More than 250mA drain, based on what I can determine with my analog volt/ammeter. Pulling the "BATTERY" fuse drops the drain down to 170mA.
 

sil80redtop

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I pulled every single fuse in the car, one at a time, with the radio fuse pulled the entire time, and the only one that dropped the drain below 250mA was the battery fuse. The battery had been disconnected all night, the doors were closed, and the under hood light was disconnected. My next step is disconnecting the alternator to see if it's the source of the drain.
 
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SunlitComet

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That fuse covers aux power sockets, power seats, Cig light sockets, stop lights and t-case module and shift motor power supply fuse 3's 1, 2, 7, 13, 18 and one circuit breaker on the block. Pull those individually with **** fuse installed and see where you end up.
 

Dowsewashere

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Is your alternator still good? Also you may want to check underhood light. Or the sunvisor mirror lights. Both of those things were killing my truck when the PO owned it.
 

qukon 95

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i'm having same problem with this cold weather starter dragging or won't crank i did a full charge on the batt it's better so far plus i use my remote start. i will take the batt to
oriellys to get it checked.
 

sil80redtop

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That fuse covers aux power sockets, power seats, Cig light sockets, stop lights and t-case module and shift motor power supply fuse 3's 1, 2, 7, 13, 18 and one circuit breaker on the block. Pull those individually with **** fuse installed and see where you end up.

Thanks, will do. I'm going to have to rip the garage apart to find my digital multimeter. This analog one isn't really helping.
 
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