[SOLVED] Rear glass defroster tab

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the blur

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Nope, the frost repair kit worked 100%. My DVM is still warm & tidy in my tool box.
While you're screwing your customers with big fancy words. "testing the entire system". How criminal...
 

Sir_Hiro

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Nope, the frost repair kit worked 100%. My DVM is still warm & tidy in my tool box.
While you're screwing your customers with big fancy words. "testing the entire system". How criminal...
SO butthurt over the fact we make sure our repairs worked. Weird. also didn't know System was a big fancy word. But i mean it makes sense. Your IQ seems to be pretty low so I can see how that might look like big words.

Diagnostic fees is a flat rate and are standard practice in the industry to.., You guessed it.. Diagnose a problem. Regardless of what you say is the problem I'm still checking out the entire system because customers lie and I want to get it right the first time..weird maybe we should all just start listening to what customers think is wrong, fix that, then listen to them complain the problem is still there. I'm sure that'll work.
 
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the blur

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SO butthurt over the fact we make sure our repairs worked. Weird. also didn't know System was a big fancy word. But i mean it makes sense. Your IQ seems to be pretty low so I can see how that might look like big words.

Diagnostic fees is a flat rate and are standard practice in the industry to.., You guessed it.. Diagnose a problem. Regardless of what you say is the problem I'm still checking out the entire system because customers lie and I want to get it right the first time..weird maybe we should all just start listening to what customers think is wrong, fix that, then listen to them complain the problem is still there. I'm sure that'll work.
You sound like a big fancy technician. But don't seem to know these defroster tabs have been a well-documented problem for years. In fact, GMC, Chevy, & Cadillac dealerships have high wattage soldering irons to solder the tabs back on. They are literally double the size of a homeowner grade soldering iron. But forget it, you don't seem to know anything about it, and are only interested in charging customers for unnecessary work.
 

Sir_Hiro

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You sound like a big fancy technician. But don't seem to know these defroster tabs have been a well-documented problem for years. In fact, GMC, Chevy, & Cadillac dealerships have high wattage soldering irons to solder the tabs back on. They are literally double the size of a homeowner grade soldering iron. But forget it, you don't seem to know anything about it, and are only interested in charging customers for unnecessary work.
You are beyond Dense my guy. I know all about the tabs and how to fix them. I never denied that the tab being off was an issue. HOWEVER we still check the entire system to verify that the tab repair worked. Simple as that. Theres nothing fancy about it. We're not gonna just glue the tab back on never check it and send it back to the customer.
You are honestly the worst type of person. There's no Unnecessary Charges to anyone. The Fee includes repair costs its not a separate charge on top.

But forget it, You don't seem to know anything about how any businesses work. That's fine. This is my last response to you. I'd rather go bang my head on a brick wall then reply to you again. I'm glad I'm not a tech/service writer anymore having to deal with people like you.
 
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the blur

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You are beyond Dense my guy. I know all about the tabs and how to fix them. I never denied that the tab being off was an issue. HOWEVER we still check the entire system to verify that the tab repair worked. Simple as that. Theres nothing fancy about it. We're not gonna just glue the tab back on never check it and send it back to the customer.
You are honestly the worst type of person. There's no Unnecessary Charges to anyone. The Fee includes repair costs its not a separate charge on top.

But forget it, You don't seem to know anything about how any businesses work. That's fine. This is my last response to you. I'd rather go bang my head on a brick wall then reply to you again. I'm glad I'm not a tech/service writer anymore having to deal with people like you.
The fact you want to "GLUE" the tab back on says it all. You are clueless about electricity. GLUE is non-conductive. The tab needs to be soldered back on. SOLDER conducts electricity. Talk about being dense. You're as clueless as the high school glass technicians at safelite.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Nope, the frost repair kit worked 100%.
Frost Kit is an adhesive based repair....aka....................Wait for it............GLUE.
The highly conductive two-part adhesive (AKA GLUE) cures quickly, bonds aggressively, and makes the electrical and structural connection to the defroster in one simple operation.

Back to the wall I go.
 

Scrappycrow

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The fact you want to "GLUE" the tab back on says it all. You are clueless about electricity. GLUE is non-conductive. The tab needs to be soldered back on. SOLDER conducts electricity. Talk about being dense. You're as clueless as the high school glass technicians at safelite.
Not having a dog in the fight, I've stayed out of the drama in this thread, but it takes a lot of nerve to use the words "clueless" and "dense" while exhibiting a complete lack of understanding about the adhesive being discussed.

It's simple-minded to essentially say "hurr, durr... glue won't work" when the adhesive in question is a specialized conductive epoxy specifically designed for this purpose (and which would be inappropriate for most other adhesive purposes).

Were you under the impression that all "glue" is essentially the same?

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

justirv

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once again, if there is NO tab on the rear glass, that is the actual problem.
I had previously used a Large soldering iron which gave some temporary connection. The solder bond was fragile due to not getting quite hot enough.
I found an electrically/thermally conductive epoxy on AMZ.

MG Chemicals 9310 One-Part Epoxy General Purpose Adhesive, High Tg, 10 milliliters Dispenser.​

This has worked for at least 5 years, still good.
 

Scrappycrow

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I had previously used a Large soldering iron which gave some temporary connection. The solder bond was fragile due to not getting quite hot enough.
I found an electrically/thermally conductive epoxy on AMZ.

MG Chemicals 9310 One-Part Epoxy General Purpose Adhesive, High Tg, 10 milliliters Dispenser.​

This has worked for at least 5 years, still good.
The manufacturer data says it requires 212°F to cure properly, and it "Provides strong electrical insulation." Are you sure this is what you used?

My bet is you're thinking of 9410, which says "High electrical conductivity" and "Creates strong permanent electrical connections." The cure temperature is still pretty high, though.
 

Rocket Man

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The fact you want to "GLUE" the tab back on says it all. You are clueless about electricity. GLUE is non-conductive. The tab needs to be soldered back on. SOLDER conducts electricity. Talk about being dense. You're as clueless as the high school glass technicians at safelite.
Umm nope. The Frost Fighter kit you supposedly used is glue. Electrically conductive epoxy. Read about it. Educate yourself. Don’t go online and make a fool of yourself over this shit. Oops too late.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Umm nope. The Frost Fighter kit you supposedly used is glue. Electrically conductive epoxy. Read about it. Educate yourself. Don’t go online and make a fool of yourself over this shit. Oops too late.
What is that old saying? "None so blind as those who won't see."

I guess that it is indeed ironic that his screen name is The Blur. Totally makes sense, though.
 

RST Dana

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Hes not even a good troll. And hes not even right at all lol thats the funny part. His life must be so boring to want to try and troll a online forum.
At least I’m educated enough to use proper grammar. “troll a online”? Hilarious!
Maybe someone else may engage with you, but as of now, you are non existent to me!
 
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