Shorty Headers on 2013 6.2L - yea or nay?

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LurkingLuke

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As with the CAI question in my previous post, I'm looking only for sound/performance gains on the street.

Shorty headers seem like a fairly easy bolt-on, though too pricey for me if there's no real benefit. I have not disabled the dynamic cylinder shut-off, if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.
 

Foggy

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NOPE... Either go with full length headers and high flow Y pipes/ cats
then get a tune to take advantage or just leave the factory exhaust manifolds in place.
The 6.2 has a very well designed catback system other than the resonator at the very end
 

Marky Dissod

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... looking only for sound / performance gains on the street.
... have not disabled the dynamic cylinder shut-off, if that makes a difference.
An ecm and tcm tune is a far better investment than a cold air intake, headers, and/or exhaust, not only in terms of performance, but durability and longevity as well.
Disabling V4mode helps the two-mode lifters last longer, as well as the torque converter clutch.
(Change your oil and ATF more often than GM says to, that also helps as well.)

To DRASTICALLY oversimplify the performance benefits, the engine and transmission will run cooler and respond more crisply and enthusiastically to your foot.
(Kids might say 'turntupalil'.)
 

Joseph Garcia

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As stated above, if you want to up the performance, get a BlackBear Performance tune. It will unleash the full power of the 6.2, and it will improve the shift performance of the transmission, as well.

What you will have to decide is whether you want a 87, 91, or 93 octane tune. I went with the 93 octane tune, since it is readily available where I live. More expensive to run? Sure, but I forget about it as soon as I hit the gas pedal.
 

Marky Dissod

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... you want to up the performance, get a BlackBear Performance tune.
It will unleash the full power of the 6.2L, and it will improve the shift performance of the transmission, as well.
What you will have to decide is whether you want a 87, 91, or 93 octane tune.
I went with the 93 octane tune, since it is readily available where I live.
More expensive to run? Sure, but I forget about it as soon as I hit the gas pedal.
If for some strange reason, you want an 87 tune, be aware, the only way is effectively a performance downgrade.
Only way to tune a 6.2L so that it runs SAFE from knock & ping on 87 octane, is to DEtune it, so that if you try to work or play hard with it, it disappoints by sucking, instead of wearing itself out and breaking.

I could continue splitting hairs ...
Just 'cause the 6.2L is technically able to TOLERATE 87 octane, and can even be DEtuned to accept it ...
... does not mean that it's worth doing.
One way or another, somehow, operating a 6.2L on 87 octane is UNDOING it.
 

Geotrash

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I hadn't thought of that. New thing to research!
I'll add my voice to the chorus of 6.2 owners who echo @Foggy's advice. The stock intake, heads and exhaust on the 6.2 flow so well from the factory, they're hard to improve on in ways that make the investment worth the hassle and cost. The only way I would invest in headers for it would be after, or as part of, a cam swap. Both of my 6.2's are tuned by Backbear and it was the best money I've spent on them.
 
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LurkingLuke

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Putting this in the file. BB it is.

...does one need to rent the scan tool or is that just for custom tunes? I'll be adding this to a bone-stock 2013 6.2, save for a K&N CAI
 

BlackBearPerf

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We'd be more than happy to go over our tuning process with you! Please use the link below to shoot us an email or give us a call:

 

Doubeleive

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I will sound off also and say that headers won't really do much but make noise and usually they just end up leaking, bolts come loose all the time.
get the tune.
then if you still want to spend money, cam, heads, supercharger, etc
then you have to upgrade all the stuff behind it or it just breaks..........
 
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LurkingLuke

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Update: stock manifold has begun leaking. If I'm going to spend the $$$ to fix it, I'm attracted to the idea of long tube headers. I got the BB tune earlier. Buy the headers and let BBT have another go at it, im thinking. How good/bad an idea this is, and if I go for it, should I also install something new cat back?
 

Marky Dissod

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You've a 6.2L. Headers just make plain how restrictive the GM OE cat-back exhaust is.
Doubt you need less restrictive catalytic converters, but aft of them, the exhaust needs to be less restrictive.
Otherwise at a certain RpM, the headers literally become pointless as GM's plans force them to peak early.

Depending on the tune deal you recently selected with Black Bear, and how long you wait,
the improved-exhaust system tune MIGHT be considered an update instead of an entirely new tune.
Sooner you ask BlackBear, the better.
 
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LurkingLuke

LurkingLuke

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You've a 6.2L. Headers just make plain how restrictive the GM OE cat-back exhaust is.
Doubt you need less restrictive catalytic converters, but aft of them, the exhaust needs to be less restrictive.
Otherwise at a certain RpM, the headers literally become pointless as GM's plans force them to peak early.

Depending on the tune deal you recently selected with Black Bear, and how long you wait,
the improved-exhaust system tune MIGHT be considered an update instead of an entirely new tune.
Sooner you ask BlackBear, the better.
Black Bear has earned by repeat business either way. Great guys.
 

Marky Dissod

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Black Bear has earned by repeat business either way. Great guys.
The sentiment is understood.
My point is that, depending on variables only you and Black Bear can be aware of,
you may either be a customer, or a client.

A customer would be paying for a 2nd tune.
A client would be paying for an update on their previous tune - if they have not already paid for it.
 

petethepug

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For the 6.2L you’re going about it all wrong. Buy a temporary kit to clamp down the broken exhaust manifold bolt.

Save your dough and buy a set of trick flow or Texas Speed (T/S) aluminum heads that breathe better. THEN you add the long tube headers.

T/S probably has a combo with heads, exhaust and tune for a Smok’n deal. Add a cam and you’ll be pushing an easy (reliable) 500hp. You’re trans may not like it though.
 
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LurkingLuke

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Tough call. My Denali has low miles (88k) so investing now makes sense. Funds are low, however. I'd be content with a very modest performance increase, so long as it can still work with the setup you recommend.

Does it make sense to save this all for when I'm flush again? Or go for the exhaust now with the hope I can reattach the same pipes after the heads are replaced? I'm not interested in reinforcing my tranny.

(Not asking for anyone to make up my mind for me, just want to make this decision in my right mind)
 

j91z28d1

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What do you mean by manifolds leaking?


and do you drive it hard enough that a few extra hp would be enjoyable vs cost?
 

ReaperHWK

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With the weight of these trucks you’d probably need an extra 100hp to even notice lol.
 

petethepug

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You’re in a good place right now @ 400hp. For a little fun now repair the broken mani studs with a clip kit and get a BB tune.

Find out when the sales occur at the speed shop you want to buy from and make a plan to hit your goal hp / tq when least expensive if the BB tune isn’t enough.

Headers alone have a low bang for buck. Once headers go on you’ll want ARP bolt installed to ensure they never break again. IF you have cracks in a header, it’s no biggie to remove or replace with the ARP in place.

Don’t go the header, CAI, free flow exhaust route. It’s nothing compared to bolting on better breathing technology with performance heads.
 

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