Replacing Motor Mounts

[duke90]

Hello all,

I'm going to be replacing the motor mounts on my '17 denali and after a little research on youtube I saw several videos where people replace the mounts by going from the top...removing the exhaust manifold, steering link etc..this just seems a bit unnecessary. Why not just go from the bottom? Unbolt the CVs and lower the front differential. Seems to me like it would be a lot simpler this way. Does anyone have experience with this who could give their 2cents? Thank you!

 

[B-train]

I'm curious to see the replies as well. I haven't had to do the newer generation with the LT motors yet. The LS were straight forward.

 

[DurtyKurty]

I just did my drivers side mount over the weekend in my garage on my 2016 6.2. What a pain in the ass. I pulled the wheel/wheel liner, sheering shaft and thought I could get it with just these two removed. I should have just pulled the exhaust manifold from the get go. The botton two engine side bolts were tough. Good luck

 

[B-train]

I just did my drivers side mount over the weekend in my garage on my 2016 6.2. What a pain in the ass. I pulled the wheel/wheel liner, sheering shaft and thought I could get it with just these two removed. I should have just pulled the exhaust manifold from the get go. The botton two engine side bolts were tough. Good luck

Oofff! Thanks for the info. Fingers crossed mine hold up awhile longer

 

[duke90]

Replaced the driver’s side mount yesterday. What a PIA. Dropped the differential, but in order to do that I had to disconnect a million wiring harness, remove the cross member, remove the differential support brace on the passenger’s side, unbolt the CVs, unbolt and remove the U-bolt cross straps so that I could get the driveshaft out of the way..then I still ended up having to remove the wheel liner and the steering link. 7 bolts hold the motor mount in place. I removed 2 from the bottom, 2 from the side going right above the strut, and 3 from the top. To remove the actual motor mount itself I wiggled it around and got it out going through the bottom. I don’t think it’s possible to pull it out from the top without removing the exhaust manifold. I got it out through the bottom but only because the differential was removed. I replaced the original mount with an AFP motor mount which was pretty straightforward. I would recommend putting a square, thin poly pushing between the mount and the frame if going with AFP because there is definitely more vibration felt in the pedal and the steering wheel with the AFP mounts.

I was hoping to replace thw passenger’s side as well but it’s just not possible going through the bottom..even with the diff removed, the power steering assist motor is in the way as well as a bunch of cooling lines. The only way possible is to remove the exhaust manifold and go from the top and side. I think I’ll tackle the passenger mount later when I do headers.

 

[GranPrix]

Replaced the driver’s side mount yesterday. What a PIA. Dropped the differential, but in order to do that I had to disconnect a million wiring harness, remove the cross member, remove the differential support brace on the passenger’s side, unbolt the CVs, unbolt and remove the U-bolt cross straps so that I could get the driveshaft out of the way..then I still ended up having to remove the wheel liner and the steering link. 7 bolts hold the motor mount in place. I removed 2 from the bottom, 2 from the side going right above the strut, and 3 from the top. To remove the actual motor mount itself I wiggled it around and got it out going through the bottom. I don’t think it’s possible to pull it out from the top without removing the exhaust manifold. I got it out through the bottom but only because the differential was removed. I replaced the original mount with an AFP motor mount which was pretty straightforward. I would recommend putting a square, thin poly pushing between the mount and the frame if going with AFP because there is definitely more vibration felt in the pedal and the steering wheel with the AFP mounts.

I was hoping to replace thw passenger’s side as well but it’s just not possible going through the bottom..even with the diff removed, the power steering assist motor is in the way as well as a bunch of cooling lines. The only way possible is to remove the exhaust manifold and go from the top and side. I think I’ll tackle the passenger mount later when I do headers.

You have the 5.3 or 6.2?

 

[Too_L8T]

my '16 tahoe has 180k miles on it, should i replace both of these when i have the motor out on a swap?

 

[intergalactron]

my '16 tahoe has 180k miles on it, should i replace both of these when i have the motor out on a swap?

It's kind of a "might as well..." You're already gonna be there, they are not that expensive... I had a drivers side fail at 105K miles. I don't know how common that failures are.

 

[Basecamp]

Having read the mounts would go, I bought new OE GM driver and passenger motor mounts for my 2018 Suburban and added them to my parts hoard. I've had no reason time to install them yet. But I have new Kooks on the way, albeit shorties.... (please, no long vs. short).
All of which leads to this question, do you think mounts on both sides can be replaced from bottom and side with manifolds out, wheels off, and fender wells out?
I am hoping to avoid going through the top.