Replacement Shocks

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

1xd5

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Posts
37
Reaction score
18
Atomic fabrication makes a coil over conversion to delete the torsion bars all together for lifted and lowered applications.
He uses Viking coil overs which actually in the research is a pretty decent coil over for the money and haven’t seen any complaints about them.

You can swap to bilsteins they should have some for a 0-2” lift on eBay or Amazon. You’ll need dummy sensors for the air ride so you don’t get lights in the dash. Mines lit up like a Christmas tree but I don’t really care
If you wanted to keep the air ride you could also use shock extenders
Stocks nice but I always try to find a way to upgrade when I replace a part if I’m able I’ll spend the extra money to get something that’s going to be stronger last longer and ride better especially if I’m driving it every day.
So if you wanted a 2” lift which method would you go with that would be considered an upgrade ? Thank you for your reply.
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina
So if you wanted a 2” lift which method would you go with that would be considered an upgrade ? Thank you for your reply.
If your on a budget torsion keys and shock extenders are your cheapest route
If you got 1000$ to drop in it go with the atomic fabrication coil over/torsion bar delete and maybe down the road invest into some nice upper control arms and you will be amazed by the difference in ride quality and handling
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina



Says this is for a Jeep but it fits our Tahoes also. Again if moneys no option they make nicer adjustable heim joint style ones for around 100-140$
I’ve had my 40$ ones for a couple years now no problem.

This should be all you need minus a set of rear shocks which you could run the bilstein 5100 0-2” lift shocks
 

1xd5

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Posts
37
Reaction score
18



Says this is for a Jeep but it fits our Tahoes also. Again if moneys no option they make nicer adjustable heim joint style ones for around 100-140$
I’ve had my 40$ ones for a couple years now no problem.

This should be all you need minus a set of rear shocks which you could run the bilstein 5100 0-2” lift shocks
Oh man, thank you so much for the thorough reply!

now say I was to choose the torsion keys route, would you go with the maxtrac keys and shock extenders or are there "better" ones you'd recommend ? https://maxtracstore.com/2000-2006-gmc-denali-2wd-4wd-1-3-front-lift-kit-maxtrac-880513/

Something else. I currently have 32.8x11.3 tires on stock height, and they rub in the rear when going up driveways at an angle and on hard dips on the highway. Currently my rear shock air bags are blown, and I'm pretty sure the compressor is shot too since I've never heard it turn on (bought it like this). A rep at maxtrac said that if I repair my autoride that alone should clear the 33's in the rear, and that I should just use the kit I linked you to level up front. I'm wondering if because of the current state of my rear suspension the suv sits lower than if the autoride was working, so I'm wondering if when I do repair it, that alone will give it some lift , and maybe I'll just need to level the front ? Then after that if I' still want more lift I can go ahead and do it.
 
Last edited:

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Oh man, thank you so much for the thorough reply!

now say I was to choose the torsion keys route, would you go with the maxtrac keys and shock extenders or are there "better" ones you'd recommend ? https://maxtracstore.com/2000-2006-gmc-denali-2wd-4wd-1-3-front-lift-kit-maxtrac-880513/

Something else. I currently have 32.8x11.3 tires on stock height, and they rub in the rear when going up driveways at an angle and on hard dips on the highway. Currently my rear shock air bags are blown, and I'm pretty sure the compressor is shot too since I've never heard it turn on (bought it like this). A rep at maxtrac said that if I repair my autoride that alone should clear the 33's in the rear, and that I should just use the kit I linked you to level up front. I'm wondering if because of the current state of my rear suspension the suv sits lower than if the autoride was working, so I'm wondering if when I do repair it, that alone will give it some lift , and maybe I'll just need to level the front ? Then after that if I' still want more lift I can go ahead and do it.
Oh man, thank you so much for the thorough reply!

now say I was to choose the torsion keys route, would you go with the maxtrac keys and shock extenders or are there "better" ones you'd recommend ? https://maxtracstore.com/2000-2006-gmc-denali-2wd-4wd-1-3-front-lift-kit-maxtrac-880513/

Something else. I currently have 32.8x11.3 tires on stock height, and they rub in the rear when going up driveways at an angle and on hard dips on the highway. Currently my rear shock air bags are blown, and I'm pretty sure the compressor is shot too since I've never heard it turn on (bought it like this). A rep at maxtrac said that if I repair my autoride that alone should clear the 33's in the rear, and that I should just use the kit I linked you to level up front. I'm wondering if because of the current state of my rear suspension the suv sits lower than if the autoride was working, so I'm wondering if when I do repair it, that alone will give it some lift , and maybe I'll just need to level the front ? Then after that if I' still want more lift I can go ahead and do it.
It all depends on what you want. I’ve had good luck running the bilstein 5100 on the rear of my vehicles and deleting the auto leveling. I personally always thought the stock ride was too soft and spongy feeling it’s firmer now with the springs and shocks but it’s more controlled at the same time and not too rough either. There’s always room for improvement but that’s the basics and my 2c.
Torsion key route is fine it’ll just right rougher the more you crank it. The coil over route will give you the lift but make a more plush and controlled ride vs feeling every dip in the road. Price wise is a big difference but honestly it would be easier to remove the bars and install the coil over kit then it would be to do the torsion key leveling kit as you’ll need the tool to do the job that’s 100$ on its own. And you’ll still need an alignment once you get it to the height you want it.
If I were on a budget the basic keys would be fine.
If I was trying to improve the ride quality and money weren’t so scarce I would go the coil over route
I’ve rode in 99-07 with normal shocks with fox shocks with duel shock hoops it all rides rough the coil over route is the only option to get the lift and still get the Cadillac ride your looking for if that’s what your wanting
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Could do without getting new springs for the rear and just get the new shocks it would still be cheaper for the bilstein 5100 and forget about the compressor.
If you still rub do a 1-1.5” puck under the spring for 30$
 

1xd5

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Posts
37
Reaction score
18



Says this is for a Jeep but it fits our Tahoes also. Again if moneys no option they make nicer adjustable heim joint style ones for around 100-140$
I’ve had my 40$ ones for a couple years now no problem.

This should be all you need minus a set of rear shocks which you could run the bilstein 5100 0-2” lift shocks
for the bilsteins in the rear. the ones you linked say it's for 3", not for 0-3", am I missing something here? I'm confused whether it'd be
Could do without getting new springs for the rear and just get the new shocks it would still be cheaper for the bilstein 5100 and forget about the compressor.
If you still rub do a 1-1.5” puck under the spring for 30$
So , I think I may just do the bilstein 5100's and new springs for the rear. Now , I noticed you linked me the 3" lift 5100's (part 24-185783) , would it be those or the 0-1" (part 24-187237), I've been told both by different people so now I just want to make sure. I'll post links so you can see the details. Also, for the coil springs I noticed many recommend the Moog HD 81069 (suboverland uses these for their overland builds), or the z71 springs (not sure they still make these), which out of those, or the ones you recommended would you do? (the ones you linked say no longer available)

As far as the front goes, I really like the idea of the coilovers, I definitely want the nicest and safest ride possible, but I haven't decided if I want to spend that amount just yet. So I'm thinking of just cranking the stock keys a bit (not maxed out) to see if that levels it, if not, I then will decide if I should do aftermarket keys or do the coilovers.

I appreciate your feedback!

Here are the links.

Bilstein 5100 3" lift part 24-185783

Bilstein 5100 0-1" lift part 24-187237

Moog HD 81069

The Moog's are cheaper on amazon

 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina
for the bilsteins in the rear. the ones you linked say it's for 3", not for 0-3", am I missing something here? I'm confused whether it'd be

So , I think I may just do the bilstein 5100's and new springs for the rear. Now , I noticed you linked me the 3" lift 5100's (part 24-185783) , would it be those or the 0-1" (part 24-187237), I've been told both by different people so now I just want to make sure. I'll post links so you can see the details. Also, for the coil springs I noticed many recommend the Moog HD 81069 (suboverland uses these for their overland builds), or the z71 springs (not sure they still make these), which out of those, or the ones you recommended would you do? (the ones you linked say no longer available)

As far as the front goes, I really like the idea of the coilovers, I definitely want the nicest and safest ride possible, but I haven't decided if I want to spend that amount just yet. So I'm thinking of just cranking the stock keys a bit (not maxed out) to see if that levels it, if not, I then will decide if I should do aftermarket keys or do the coilovers.

I appreciate your feedback!

Here are the links.

Bilstein 5100 3" lift part 24-185783

Bilstein 5100 0-1" lift part 24-187237

Moog HD 81069

The Moog's are cheaper on amazon

The 0-1 if you don’t plan on going I’ve the 1” in the rear
 

1xd5

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Posts
37
Reaction score
18
The 0-1 if you don’t plan on going I’ve the 1” in the rear
Got it. Thank You! So I think I'm settled. Gonna get the 0-1" Bilstein 5100's for the rear w/ the Moog HD 81069 Coil Springs, gonna pick up 4 new insulators for the springs as well. Is there anything else I should get?

Gonna see if the stock keys get me level without them being maxed out, and hopefully that buys me time to decide whether I should just do aftermarket keys for maybe a bit of a better ride, or get the coilovers.
 
Last edited:

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,135
Reaction score
5,303
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Got it. Thank You! So I think I'm settled. Gonna get the 0-1" Bilstein 5100's for the rear w/ the Moog HD 81069 Coil Springs, gonna pick up 4 new insulators for the springs as well. Is there anything else I should get?

Gonna see if the stock keys get me level without them being maxed out, and hopefully that buys me time to decide whether I should just do aftermarket keys for maybe a bit of a better ride, or get the coilovers.
Rear sounds good man and the stock sway bar links should still fit with that.
The front may nose dive a bit I remember before I could afford the tool to remove torsion keys it was easier to put in drop shackles in my trucks to reverse level them but you can’t do that as cheap in the Tahoes.
I had my stock keys cranked up and it rode like a tank most the time it would be better to get some lift keys and leave them I cranked so it’ll ride better there’s some cheap options on Amazon just read the reviews good so you don’t get a set that don’t actually work..
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,244
Posts
1,812,768
Members
92,349
Latest member
Ihaveatahoetoo
Top