Replaced front stabilizer bar links

[Clean07Burb]

I may be wrong, but since you lower with spindles, the lower control arm stays in the same place, so the angle is still correct with a factory length link. The rears need to be shorter because the axle physically moves up, so the sway bar drops. I wouldn't think you'd need to shorten the front. Tony, you have any input?

You know, I think you're right. I'm sure if we actually needed shorter end links up front Tony would offer them just as he does the rears.

 

[08grey]

I looked at the front tonight and I think 3/4-1 inch off the sleeve would bring the bar parallel.

 

[Clean07Burb]

I looked at the front tonight and I think 3/4-1 inch off the sleeve would bring the bar parallel.

Maybe Tony will chime in here. I'd think he'd know if any shortening is necessary.

 

[08grey]

Your right the threads don't allow for much cutting. Maybe a half of a inch tops.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Yeah, thats what I thought. Hopefully we'll end up not having to worry about it, anyway.

 

[shundal]

If you need shorter links look at the energy links I posted earlier. They come with different sized grommets so you can make them shorter or longer to work with your setup. I have mine set to 4 5/8 inches

 

[Clean07Burb]

If you need shorter links look at the energy links I posted earlier. They come with different sized grommets so you can make them shorter or longer to work with your setup. I have mine set to 4 5/8 inches

Good idea. I've had some Energy Suspension products in the past and it all seemed to be good stuff. At least the polyurethane bushings would last a lifetime, unlike the factory or other factory style replacement end link bushings. Although, the Moog replacements do look to be of much higher quality than the stock pieces. I never really cared for the plastic spacer or cheap rubber bushings on the factory end links. The Moog's come with much firmer bushings (some applications are even urethane), and also a nice, zinc coated Grade 8 bolt.

 

[fiatdale]

I still don't think it needs to be shorter because the distance from the frame to the lower control arm hasn't changed.

 

[08grey]

Picked these up at auto zone. 9.8117r. Same size thread as ours oem. About 1 inch

shorter

I think a inch or so will get it closer to level for me.

 

[Clean07Burb]

I still don't think it needs to be shorter because the distance from the frame to the lower control arm hasn't changed.

I think you're right, but with that said, I don't think the ones 08grey added that are an inch shorter will hurt anything.

 

[08grey]

Got the new ones in. Probably could go shorter a half inch more but I think this is close to straight. R

 

[shundal]

Does it feel any different?

 

[08grey]

Can't tell yet. Probably won't be able to tell at all but it's a step in the right direction. Lots more tweaking to do.

---------- Post added at 10:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------

Anyone know what the front chassis stabilizer size bushings are from energy suspension on the Denali. Definitely going to change those as well. I can see the brand new oem ones flex way too much when turning the wheel and jumping on the running board.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Can't tell yet. Probably won't be able to tell at all but it's a step in the right direction. Lots more tweaking to do.

---------- Post added at 10:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------

Anyone know what the front chassis stabilizer size bushings are from energy suspension on the Denali. Definitely going to change those as well. I can see the brand new oem ones flex way too much when turning the wheel and jumping on the running board.

Looking at Moog's catalog, they list three different sway bar diameters. 36MM, 1 1/8" or 1 1/4"

 

[tights24]

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but I'd rather search and respond to the proper thread than start a new one. Having said that, is this replacement of the stabilizer links done due to a popping sound when turning at semi slow speeds with some force put on the suspension? Meaning, I recently noticed a popping sound when making turns and usually when going over dips while turning, and it's definitely something metal that's popping. Kind of like the sound a shoulder would make popping out of a socket for those with an imagination. Doesn't happen all of the time, but it has happened a few times now in the past month. truck has 108K on it now. Looks like something easy to replace. I'm traveling right now so I can't check them, but I'm curious if this thread is the problem I started having.

Thanks all.

 

[NJ04HOE]

I just replaced mine today, steering felt weird for about a week when going over small bumps at low speeds like pulling out a driveway. Then today I heard a clunk, came home and took a look under the truck and found my drivers side link broken. Took about 15 minutes to ****** out and replace both.
I'm just glad I remembered reading this thread an knew what it was right away. I just checked them about 3 weeks ago when I did my oil and they looked fine just a little dry rotted so I planned on changing them soon anyway.
Before - Oem


After - MOOG



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[07Burb]

Looks like AC Delco links maybe?

 

[NJ04HOE]

Looks like AC Delco links maybe?

I'm not sure what the originals were but the new ones are moog


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[07Burb]

I asked because I just replaced mine as well and mine were blue but were AC Delco

 

[NJ04HOE]

Oh ok


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