Recommendations on brakes?

[Burnswil]

Hi all,

Time to replace my brakes and have some questions.

First off, I've been recommended R1Concepts brakes. I've never heard of them but my buddy is a car guy, runs them on both of his CTS, and swears by them. Didn't know if anyone had any thoughts on them.

Second thing is when looking up brakes on the R1Concepts site, it asks for the caliper casting number. Looking for 285/286 or 325/326 or something like that. When having the tires changed I asked if they could tell me and they told me they didn't see anything. Are you guys aware of different bracket numbers and do you know of any way to tell what bracket you have apart from tearing things apart to find out? Any help would be appreciated.

Lastly, any recommendations on brakes. I've done some searching but the price range is all over the place. I don't do any real towing so just look for good reliable brakes without braking the bank!

Thanks in advance!

 

[calif phil]

Wagner Thermoquiet are great pads. USA made too They are available at most parts stores and are not that much more than the Chinese pads.


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[mrcajunjoker]

I did Power Stop rotors and Hawk pads. I’m happy so far.

 

[Burnswil]

I did Power Stop rotors and Hawk pads. I’m happy so far.

What powerstop rotors did you use? I've been looking at this kit:

http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx




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[mrcajunjoker]

What powerstop rotors did you use? I've been looking at this kit:

http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx




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Front Slotted: 126.66057CSR and CSL

Rear Slotted: 126.66065SR and SL

I didn’t do the Cryo for the rear just to save some cash.

Pads: Hawk Performance HB561Y.710 LTS Brake Pads

And rear: Hawk Performance HB568Y.666 LTS Brake Pads

 

[Meccanoble]

Front Slotted: 126.66057CSR and CSL

Rear Slotted: 126.66065SR and SL

I didn’t do the Cryo for the rear just to save some cash.

Pads: Hawk Performance HB561Y.710 LTS Brake Pads

And rear: Hawk Performance HB568Y.666 LTS Brake Pads

I always thought this truck uses rears the most since its RWD and also I believe the rears go out faster so I thought it would be best to have best brakes/rotors in rear. I picked up a high carbon rotor from pep boys and added some Asbestos pads. They dont create much dust and work pretty well, plus fast pick up locally. I have had good experience with high carbon rotors from pretty much all the local stores.

 

[Burnswil]

I always thought this truck uses rears the most since its RWD and also I believe the rears go out faster so I thought it would be best to have best brakes/rotors in rear. I picked up a high carbon rotor from pep boys and added some Asbestos pads. They dont create much dust and work pretty well, plus fast pick up locally. I have had good experience with high carbon rotors from pretty much all the local stores.

I believe you are right about the rears. When I had the brakes checked the rears were worse than the fronts. I'll have to look locally.


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[pilot62000]

I recommend R1 rotors & Advance Auto "Gold" ceramic pads. For 62,000 mile reports on this combo (with pics), see: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...tors-airaid-jr-intake-tube.74498/#post-925817

 

[mrcajunjoker]

It's true with my factory pads, my rear's were gone in 50k miles where the fronts were still good. I haven't had that since. The truck naturally stops hard, dipping down in the front unless you pump the brakes to come to a stop. I have had to change my front pads a couple more times than the rears. And I'm at 230k miles currently.

 

[Burnswil]

Great! Thanks for the advice. When ordering your R1's, dis they ask for any info from your caliper bracket? Supposedly they used two different brackets on the 07's. Not sure if this is true for any other model year.


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[pilot62000]

I don't recall providing any other info except year/make/model.

 

[Burnswil]

I don't recall providing any other info except year/make/model.

I have a feeling it's only the 07. Was hoping someone with an 07 could chime in.


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[MidwestMike]

It seems strange to me that the rears wear faster. All my other vehicles went along with the theory that weight transfers to the front when braking and the front does most of the work.

I kept checking the front pads on my last Tahoe and they were not wearing at all. Never even looked at the back since the fronts were good. Next thing you know the back pads are down to nothing.

I assumed it was because 90% of the time I was trailering and that was wearing the rear faster (for some reason, nothing that made sense...)

 

[mals]

I have a feeling it's only the 07. Was hoping someone with an 07 could chime in.


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I don't have an '07, but from what I have gathered around here some very early model year '07s were actually still NBS models like the 2000-2006 GMT800 body styles. If yours looks like a NNBS then you likely have the GMT900 breaking setup.

 

[Burnswil]

Haha, ok I have the nnbs. Do you know anything about the caliper casting on the nnbs by chance?


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[mals]

Haha, ok I have the nnbs. Do you know anything about the caliper casting on the nnbs by chance?

Nothing specific, but I have been looking into the differences between the GMT800 and GMT900 front calipers since I am about to do the upgrade on my 2005. Basically for the GMT900 they increased the size of the caliper bracket and the radius of the caliper to accommodate the 13" front rotor that came standard on the GMT900 from the 12" rotor that had been standard on the GMT800. The mounting points and hub remained the same, which is why those of us with GMT800s can simply bolt on the upgrade. From what I have seen the part numbers for the bracket and caliper cover years 2007+ to 2014.

If you are looking for another data point on brake recommendations, I went with the Bendix Fleet MetLok rotors and pads for all four corners of my Yukon, and will be upgrading all the flex lines to stainless lines. I primarily use it for towing, so I am looking for all the stopping power I can get with basically a bolt on budget. I'm willing to trade off some brake dust from the semi-metallic pads for increased grip.

 

[jmm121783]

I believe you are right about the rears. When I had the brakes checked the rears were worse than the fronts. I'll have to look locally.


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I HIGHLY doubt this, most cars/truck that are run of the mill daily driver kind of cars have a general bias to the front brakes (just look at the size of the rotors and the tech that is up front versus the back, especially over time all the way back to the 50/60s, front rotors ALWAYS do a majority of the stopping, sometimes over 90% (don't ask, stock 9C1/Impala SS had a issue with this and it led to a lot of aftermarket mods) and the rears are "along for the ride" basically. Now as tech has gotten better we see 4 wheel discs standard and now we are moving to a more conventional 60/40 split.

 

[Scottydoggs]

I HIGHLY doubt this, most cars/truck that are run of the mill daily driver kind of cars have a general bias to the front brakes (just look at the size of the rotors and the tech that is up front versus the back, especially over time all the way back to the 50/60s, front rotors ALWAYS do a majority of the stopping, sometimes over 90% (don't ask, stock 9C1/Impala SS had a issue with this and it led to a lot of aftermarket mods) and the rears are "along for the ride" basically. Now as tech has gotten better we see 4 wheel discs standard and now we are moving to a more conventional 60/40 split.

every 4 wheel disk brake truck or car ive owned, all the back brakes wear out before the fronts.

03 gmc 2500 hd did, my 98 regal does, the 05 silverado does the same thing. this tahoe i have had trashed back brakes as well when i bought it.

for what ever reason gm is putting more back braking in the set ups since the late 90's.

 

[petethepug]

08 Denali XL AWD, rears gave way first but only by about 500mi. I have quite a few hills near home and use 2nd & 3rd gear to coast down the grades.

It makes sense to have the rears biased to wear first as they keep the vehicle tracking in the direction intended during braking.


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