Rebuilding a steering box

[Matthew Jeschke]

So enticing! I thought it might be a simple swap. I may wait until other projects are completed. There's many factory upgrades that can be added to these trucks it's a bit mind blowing. I'd never even heard of hydroboost before. I'll just order the standard pump for now and reuse my old reservoir to save a few dollars.


Anybody know where I can get the adapter to bleed the pump with my mighty vac? The deal that fits over the cap?

 

[MassHoe04]

I don't have one, but I found the site while poking around on your behalf...

Manufacturer's website has all the adapters available.

SKF

www.skf.com

Actually, that was to figure out which one you want...
Here is where to buy them.

SKF

www.skf.com

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Awesome thanks @MassHoe04

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Bloody rebuild kit didn't have all the parts. I bought the Gates 348526, damn thing said four bolt box, then had instructions for rack an pinion when I opened it. I think I maybe was supposed to buy this kit HERE

Otherwise VERY easy project...

Anybody know where I can get bearings?

Input shaft bearing inside #10 stub shaft housing (Part Number INA-FC68773.2)
#12 Needle Bearing assembly pitman shaft output. (Part Number INA-SLH12501)

Also I'm having a he LL of a time sorting out what power steering pump I have. I do not have hydro boost. However, what is the "vacuum booster".

Lastly is it hard to reuse the old revivor?

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I got the steering gearbox re-assmbled. I put a bit of Dexron VI in it and tested it out with a wrench. Has nice action. Not really anything adjustable other than the setscrew. After tearing it down I realize, play could possibly be due to blow by as well gear lash. There's five Teflon seals for different pressure circuits. I try to recall how these work but four of them appear to be for valves / valve. Piston has one, and there's another at end of valve chamber.

Video of finished, w/ some of my challenges.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18K47jYh1A7rHIiow8fbfWQmfoOYcBebH/view?usp=sharing

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Okay, it's built! All installed and works AWESOME. I ended up rebuilding two gearboxes and filming one. I put the clips (quite disorganized) onto youtube. It's a VERY VERY VERY VERY detailed rebuild. All the things the other tutorials missed that I had questions about are in the tutorial I made:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLL6mRKcdDhINRmP3P622amJf58txxPoNA

Only thing is, I didn't have much time to edit it beautifully or script it. So a bit disorganized. However, if you ever want to rebuild one... All the details should be in there. If not, you can ask me any questions.

I have ZERO slop in steering now and is much more confident when I turn the wheel. Feels GREAT.

 

[rockola1971]

Okay, it's built! All installed and works AWESOME. I ended up rebuilding two gearboxes and filming one. I put the clips (quite disorganized) onto youtube. It's a VERY VERY VERY VERY detailed rebuild. All the things the other tutorials missed that I had questions about are in the tutorial I made:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLL6mRKcdDhINRmP3P622amJf58txxPoNA

Only thing is, I didn't have much time to edit it beautifully or script it. So a bit disorganized. However, if you ever want to rebuild one... All the details should be in there. If not, you can ask me any questions.

I have ZERO slop in steering now and is much more confident when I turn the wheel. Feels GREAT

You are a M A D M A N! No way Id even mess with rebuilding one of those monsters.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks @rockola1971 actually was pretty simple I'm sure you'd figure it on lickedy split!

I'm wondering if it's worth making tutorials for our trucks. I've got a studio (you'd never know having seen that haha)

However, it's a LOT of work, and I hate to say, I'd have to find a way making money doing it to justify the time investment.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Anybody know what snap ring plyers don't SUCK? That was the hardest part of the entire rebuild. My snap ring plyers kept slipping off the snap ring.

Also I have a smaller 670 gearbox I bought by mistake and rebuild. It only needs a few things to be complete. I'll be finding it a home after it's done if anybody wants a rebuild 670 gearbox (three bolt valve body) PM me.

 

[Fless]

Okay, it's built! All installed and works AWESOME. I ended up rebuilding two gearboxes and filming one. I put the clips (quite disorganized) onto youtube. It's a VERY VERY VERY VERY detailed rebuild. All the things the other tutorials missed that I had questions about are in the tutorial I made:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLL6mRKcdDhINRmP3P622amJf58txxPoNA

Only thing is, I didn't have much time to edit it beautifully or script it. So a bit disorganized. However, if you ever want to rebuild one... All the details should be in there. If not, you can ask me any questions.

I have ZERO slop in steering now and is much more confident when I turn the wheel. Feels GREAT.

Interesting videos, Matthew. 2004 Tahoe, 111k on the clock. I'm in the process of trying to remove slop from my steering gear, and wonder if you have any insight about doing it on the truck. Gearbox is a reman NAPA installed a few years ago, maybe around 10k miles on it.

Originally I could move my steering wheel back and forth a few inches (at center) and not get any movement to the output shaft, testing with truck on the ground. The input shaft doesn't have play. I've made a full clockwise turn on the allen screw, but still have some steering wheel movement without the pitman arm moving. I didn't want to go too far, but do you think it would make any difference to unload the frontend by raising the wheels off the ground?

Would appreciate any comments or thoughts from you and the group.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Interesting videos, Matthew. 2004 Tahoe, 111k on the clock. I'm in the process of trying to remove slop from my steering gear, and wonder if you have any insight about doing it on the truck. Gearbox is a reman NAPA installed a few years ago, maybe around 10k miles on it.

Originally I could move my steering wheel back and forth a few inches (at center) and not get any movement to the output shaft, testing with truck on the ground. The input shaft doesn't have play. I've made a full clockwise turn on the allen screw, but still have some steering wheel movement without the pitman arm moving. I didn't want to go too far, but do you think it would make any difference to unload the frontend by raising the wheels off the ground?

Would appreciate any comments or thoughts from you and the group.

Um, not sure raising up off the ground would do much. But certainly wouldn't hurt to see if is easier to observe the play.

I don't recall which way tightens the set screw. You will want to go an 1/8th turn and see if that helps. I would mark the nut and cap so you know exactly where you started from.

Hope that helps

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Video of me adjusting outside the vehicle.

.

Note you will want to leave a VERY slight lash/ gap for oil film to remain on gear. Don't make it super tight or you will wear the gear out.... I learned that hard way.

 

[Fless]

Um, not sure raising up off the ground would do much. But certainly wouldn't hurt to see if is easier to observe the play.

I don't recall which way tightens the set screw. You will want to go an 1/8th turn and see if that helps. I would mark the nut and cap so you know exactly where you started from.

Hope that helps

I did mark both the allen screw position and the case. Your video shows you turning the allen screw clockwise to tighten, so I'm good with that.

I'll raise the tires off the ground and move them horizontally (3 to 9 o'clock) to see if the play in the pitman arm connection (output) is getting better, but not too tight. My initial test was done by rotating the input shaft and watching the splined output shaft for movement, but I don't know if that would produce the same results.

 

[exp500]

Fless- If you have a helper that can slowly & gently rock the wheel 1/2 in L/R while you tighten ball track screw till play reduces or you feel balls usually works. If you feel resistance back off 1/2 turn or test drive where there is zero traffic.
No need to Jack.

 

[Fless]

Fless- If you have a helper that can slowly & gently rock the wheel 1/2 in L/R while you tighten ball track screw till play reduces or you feel balls usually works. If you feel resistance back off 1/2 turn or test drive where there is zero traffic.
No need to Jack.

Great, thanks. That'll save me some work. Son is coming over tomorrow to assist.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I've rebuilt three of these now! It's so simple, surprised everybody doesn't do this. Only thing is you need a large snap ring plyers but you can get them at harbor freight for pretty cheap.

I also did my transfer case now which wasn't much harder. Cannot believe shops send this stuff out all the time. I guess if they're just swapping parts but darn. It's sooooo easy.