Rebuiding my front end - upgrades?

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calsdad

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There we go... that's the information I was looking for. I guess I should have known about the hubs, that makes sense with 6-lug vs 8-lug wheels.

I just crawled under mine to look for what is making noise - I really couldn't see anything out of whack. Maybe I won't bother rebuilding, just get it aligned and see if I'm happier with it. It's definitely pulling left and sometimes seems to wander, but I could be a bit hypervigilant, I dunno.

I had some banging under mine after I did the suspension rebuild. It turned out to be the swaybar links I used - which I just couldn't seem to get aligned in such a way as they wouldn't bind up. After screwing with them like 5 times I eventually just gave up and put a set of "standard" type swaybar links in there that were really heavy duty. That solved the problem and they've been fine for like two years now.

The whole " I got under there and started pulling on things to see what was loose" trick - is something that just doesn't work on trucks IMHO. First off you're unlikely to put the kind of forces on a suspension piece with your own physical strength - as compared to what gets put on them by the truck itself, also trying to do it with the truck jacked up (which is what a lot of people do) - is not going to put the suspension in the same place it is when the noise is being produced.
 

calsdad

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I am really interested to see if replacing those helps that noise I'm hearing. I think it's pretty obvious I need an alignment, but none of the places I've been to here do I trust - they've all tried to upsell me a bunch of sh*t I obviously don't need. One of them tried to tell me they weren't going to let me take my truck because I needed a new Pittman arm - that was, I think... 8 years ago? Still got the same Pittman arm, another 150k miles or more since then.

I had a Goodyear tire shop try that crap on me way back when I was like 17 years old - and it basically turned me into a lifetime DIY'er on doing my own car repairs (I'm 57 now). So they burned their whole industry out of whole lotta money flowing out of my pocket into theirs by being so dishonest.

It was my first car ( a 75 Chevelle) - and pretty much the first thing I did to it was rebuild the entire front suspension and the bushings in the rear axle. This was way back in like 81 or something like that. When I rebuilt the front suspension I put in urethane bushings, a set of KYB gas shocks, new springs - etc. I even went in there and cleaned everything up and painted it up in nice contrasting colors because I thought it looked cool (read a lot of car mags at the time). The car was nice and tight after that and drove really nice too. Then I brought it to the local Goodyear shop to get it aligned. I left it there and me and one of buddies who came with me - went out to get something to eat. Came back an hour later and they had the car up on the lift and the guy started trying to sell me a new set of shocks. He was like "I can't align the car without new shocks on it". I was like " you're full of crap - you could take the shocks OUT COMPLETELY and still align the car - and also LOOK AT THEM - they're COMPLETELY NEW ALREADY" I was like WTF - and pissed off to boot because I needed to get the car aligned and now I had to take it out of that place and start all over again.

Ever since then - if at all possible - I've done my own auto repair work. A few years after that incident - after I got out of college - I even learned to do my own alignments when the shop I worked at bought a new Hunter alignment rack. I was actually the first guy in the shop to use the thing - on my own personal car.
 
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tRidiot

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Did they try to stop you from leaving with your own truck??

They didn't push the issue much when they saw I wasn't going to go for it - they had said, "You know, this is a safety issue with your steering, I'm not sure we should really let you take it out of here the way it is." I made it clear I wasn't committing to any repairs like that without having my own mechanic look at it and they didn't bring it up again.

As above, this shop screwed themselves out of any future business from me, ever. As has the latest shop, as well.

I've always said, "Would you rather make a dime off me once, or a nickel 10 times?" Well, if you have enough people lined up to give you their dimes, then those nickels don't really matter, but in a lot of industries, mine included, repeat business is the key to long term survival.
 

Tonyrodz

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They didn't push the issue much when they saw I wasn't going to go for it - they had said, "You know, this is a safety issue with your steering, I'm not sure we should really let you take it out of here the way it is." I made it clear I wasn't committing to any repairs like that without having my own mechanic look at it and they didn't bring it up again.

As above, this shop screwed themselves out of any future business from me, ever. As has the latest shop, as well.

I've always said, "Would you rather make a dime off me once, or a nickel 10 times?" Well, if you have enough people lined up to give you their dimes, then those nickels don't really matter, but in a lot of industries, mine included, repeat business is the key to long term survival.
Unbelievable that people even try saying that. They wouldn't have a legal leg to stand on if they did push the issue.
 
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tRidiot

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They try to claim it's a safety issue and they could be liable, blah blah blah. Bottom line is, if it drives in, it can drive out. They may have made me sign a waiver, I dunno.

But considering I've had it inspected by my own trusted mechanic and he said it was fine, AND I've been driving it for 6 or 8 years since then, I think he was right. lol
 
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tRidiot

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So I took my truck to another brake and alignment shop this morning. Told the guy the story about the other shop wanting to do 3 ball joints and a wheel hub, then my mechanic checking them and he thought they were ok. He asked if he lifted it on the control arms or the frame, I think? I can't remember, he said you have to do it one way or the other or it will support things and make them feel tight when they're not. I don't know, offhand. Anyways, he called me back later and says, yeah I need two ball joints and hub on the driver's side. I know I replaced that driver's hub or at least bearing once, but that woulda been 8-9y ago, it's had probably 150-180k miles on it since then. Quote was about $950.

I told him I'd like to take it home, pay him for what he's done and see when I can afford to do this, turns out he didn't charge me at all, just said to let him know what I want to do and he'll take care of me.

I told him I had considered doing a full front end, if I got all the parts, what would he charge me to do everything - even Pittman arm, idler arm etc. He quoted me about $1200, which I don't think is too unreasonable, at all. He even told me to get it all on Rock Auto, the parts houses are even having trouble getting parts right now, but if I get the upper end Moog stuff, he says that is the best out there, along with TKW (I think?*), he would definitely recommend that.

So I'm gonna think about doing the whole front end. If I've got 2 ball joints and wheel hub need replacing, at 280k miles, I think I'd be best served doing the whole front end instead, and not be back in 6 or 8 months getting more done on the other side, etc.

*<edit> I cant find any TKW, maybe I didn't catch it right. I have KW coilovers on my 370Z, but they don't make anything for my truck.

<edit 2> Maybe he said TRW. That looks like it could be it.
 
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Tonyrodz

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So I took my truck to another brake and alignment shop this morning. Told the guy the story about the other shop wanting to do 3 ball joints and a wheel hub, then my mechanic checking them and he thought they were ok. He asked if he lifted it on the control arms or the frame, I think? I can't remember, he said you have to do it one way or the other or it will support things and make them feel tight when they're not. I don't know, offhand. Anyways, he called me back later and says, yeah I need two ball joints and hub on the driver's side. I know I replaced that driver's hub or at least bearing once, but that woulda been 8-9y ago, it's had probably 150-180k miles on it since then. Quote was about $950.

I told him I'd like to take it home, pay him for what he's done and see when I can afford to do this, turns out he didn't charge me at all, just said to let him know what I want to do and he'll take care of me.

I told him I had considered doing a full front end, if I got all the parts, what would he charge me to do everything - even Pittman arm, idler arm etc. He quoted me about $1200, which I don't think is too unreasonable, at all. He even told me to get it all on Rock Auto, the parts houses are even having trouble getting parts right now, but if I get the upper end Moog stuff, he says that is the best out there, along with TKW (I think?), he would definitely recommend that.

So I'm gonna think about doing the whole front end. If I've got 2 ball joints and wheel hub need replacing, at 280k miles, I think I'd be best served doing the whole front end instead, and not be back in 6 or 8 months getting more done on the other side, etc.
Def worth paying someone to do the idler arm.
 
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tRidiot

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I guess my question is - if the major suspension components LOOK good, i.e., stabilizer bar, upper and lower control arms, etc., should I go ahead and replace them with the idea that they're almost 20y old and are weakened over time, or just replace the stabilizer bar linkages, the ball joints, etc., and keep the solid components?
 

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