Front End Replacement Parts

[Cthom]

2015 Yukon XL Denali
I was told I need to replace front end on both sides. Reason is...when I tried to get an alignment they said they could not complete it cause of worn parts. Also both tires have excessive wear inside. Driver side wear is more than the passage side. What I need help with are the parts. What parts do I need to replace both front ends. I have an idea like control arms upper lower left right. But I would like an list so i can research and buy.

 

[wjburken]

2015 Yukon XL Denali
I was told I need to replace front end on both sides. Reason is...when I tried to get an alignment they said they could not complete it cause of worn parts. Also both tires have excessive wear inside. Driver side wear is more than the passage side. What I need help with are the parts. What parts do I need to replace both front ends. I have an idea like control arms upper lower left right. But I would like a list so i can research and buy.

Did the shop that refused to do the alignment tell you anything other than you have worn parts?

They didn’t give you a quote for fixing it so they could align it?

If it was me, I’d do my own inspection and see where things are wiggling, jiggling and just broken.

For starters I would look at ball joints and tie rod ends. Might consider just replacing your upper and lower control arms so you get new bushings as well as ball joints.

Then I’d look at struts and check your wheel bearings for any play as well.

Sway bar links and bushings would be on the list to check and/or just replace also.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you have a local repair shop (not a tire shop) that you 'trust', take the truck to them and get an honest assessment of what is required to get the front end up to spec. You did not specify the mileage on the truck, so it is difficult to make any accurate assessment on what you need. I will say that these suspension parts are typically good for about 100,000 miles, so if you are at or beyond that mileage, then part replacements are probably in order. You've received some great initial remote assessments from the Forum folks above.

 

[Cthom]

Im looking into replacing the front end assembly Upper and Lower control arms Sway bars and ball joints. what are some good brands to look into. I looked on RockAuto and see some brands (Doman, Mevotech, SKP). I also looked on Amazon and eBay and see you can get the whole kit assemble made by Detroit Axle. The Yukon has 165000 and its a family hauler no off road or anything crazy. Not looink to spend a ton on parts but what something that will be close to factory.

 

[GMCChevy]

Saying you need to replace the front end both sides is as vague as you can get. What parts you need to replace depends on what's worn out. If you're trying to save money there's no point in replacing stuff that's not needed.
You get what you pay for. A quick look at rock auto and GM and ac delco are in the same price range as a lot of others.

 

[Doubeleive]

Im looking into replacing the front end assembly Upper and Lower control arms Sway bars and ball joints. what are some good brands to look into. I looked on RockAuto and see some brands (Doman, Mevotech, SKP). I also looked on Amazon and eBay and see you can get the whole kit assemble made by Detroit Axle. The Yukon has 165000 and its a family hauler no off road or anything crazy. Not looink to spend a ton on parts but what something that will be close to factory.

Probably looking around $1200 in parts for OEM, one and done.
detroit axle stuff is GARBAGE it won't last 2 years
you can get the CORRECT part numbers from any gm dealer with the last 8 of your vin and the best prices are going to likely be amazon

 

[Trey Hardy]

Im looking into replacing the front end assembly Upper and Lower control arms Sway bars and ball joints. what are some good brands to look into. I looked on RockAuto and see some brands (Doman, Mevotech, SKP). I also looked on Amazon and eBay and see you can get the whole kit assemble made by Detroit Axle. The Yukon has 165000 and its a family hauler no off road or anything crazy. Not looink to spend a ton on parts but what something that will be close to factory.

Detroit stuff is junk you’ll be doing it again in no time I know from experience. I run kryptonite suspension parts in all my stuff but ac delco is good too. Moog isn’t what it used to be I’d stay away from them too

 

[CMoore711]

Rockauto and gmpartsdirect.com will be your best bet. Do not skimp out on replacement parts. Buy OEM parts.

Look at it this way. Assuming you’re on all original parts. The OEM parts have lasted 10 yrs and 165K miles, why purchase parts you’ll have to replace in 20-30K miles or 1-2 yrs to save a couple hundred bucks? It’ll be the same cost in labor.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Look at it this way. Assuming you’re on all original parts. The OEM parts have lasted 10 yrs and 165K miles, why purchase parts you’ll have to replace in 20-30K miles or 1-2 yrs to save a couple hundred bucks? It’ll be the same cost in labor.

GM OE original parts made 10 years ago, vs 'GM OE' replacement parts made in the last year ...
Think I'd prefer Cognito MotorSports / Kryptonite / other highly respected aftermarket parts for the upgrade,
especially if the prices are comparable.

 

[Cthom]

What about Dorman parts?

 

[GMCChevy]

What about Dorman parts?

For front end parts? You're better off buying the no name junk off ebay or Amazon. Probably comes out of the same factory anyway.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

I am looking to replace both of the front struts on my 2017 RWD 5.3 Tahoe LT, 80K miles (due to one of them leaking all of the oil out).

Looks like there are tons of choices available here:

2017 CHEVROLET TAHOE 5.3L V8 Shock / Strut & Coil Spring Assembly | Shop Now at RockAuto

Suspension Parts and More for Your 2017 CHEVROLET TAHOE at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

I am not sure which of these is the most "OEM" like. I don't think I have electronic suspension or anything like that. I saw an ACDELCO on there, but it specifies 4WD, which I don't have.

I prefer to go as close to OEM as possible, but also don't want to waste my time on junk parts.

I am leaning toward the KYB, but no real good reason.

Anyone have anything from that list they have used / recommend?

 

[SaintMiles]

If you want something that fits exactly like the factory parts that have lasted you 165,000 miles or more(mine lasted about 200,000), I would suggest taking a picture of your "Service Parts Identification" tag located in your glove compartment. Then match up the codes against the parts you need. I find it on Rock Auto, but obviously, buy from wherever you like. Personally I avoid other brands for parts like control arms, just stick with the factory parts. The reviews of those aftermarket suspension parts leave a lot to be desired.

CheezeBall: If you want your new struts to fit right, do what I did above, match the codes with the the replacement struts you order. If you get a "prebuilt strut/coil assembly", you will be disappointed with 1. the height after the install, mine was 2 inches taller, and 2. the performance was awful...super soft like a boat.
To fix this, I went to rock auto, matched up the part numbers and the codes, ordered the struts, and the related bushings and a coil spring compressor tool which all came out to less cost than I spent on the prebuilt strut package.
Luckily I saved all the packaging and the mylar stickers that cover the top of the prebuilt struts and was able to return them, whew.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

If you want something that fits exactly like the factory parts that have lasted you 165,000 miles or more(mine lasted about 200,000), I would suggest taking a picture of your "Service Parts Identification" tag located in your glove compartment. Then match up the codes against the parts you need. I find it on Rock Auto, but obviously, buy from wherever you like. Personally I avoid other brands for parts like control arms, just stick with the factory parts. The reviews of those aftermarket suspension parts leave a lot to be desired.

CheezeBall: If you want your new struts to fit right, do what I did above, match the codes with the the replacement struts you order. If you get a "prebuilt strut/coil assembly", you will be disappointed with 1. the height after the install, mine was 2 inches taller, and 2. the performance was awful...super soft like a boat.
To fix this, I went to rock auto, matched up the part numbers and the codes, ordered the struts, and the related bushings and a coil spring compressor tool which all came out to less cost than I spent on the prebuilt strut package.
Luckily I saved all the packaging and the mylar stickers that cover the top of the prebuilt struts and was able to return them, whew.

Thank you for this information. I have taken the picture of the sticker and I am in the process of deciphering the codes.

So far I have ZW7 as being "Smooth Ride". I will keep looking to see if any others seem suspension related.

I am also going to look into what it takes to replace the shock inside the strut assembly so I don't maim myself. If I think I can do it, I would prefer this route anyways for cost. The Tahoe only has 80k miles on it, and I was happy with the ride until the existing strut leaked all of its oil out.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

I finally tackled this today. I went with the: KYB SRM4544. So far very pleased. Ride height seems identical, and the ride has stiffened back up. Only problem is now I want to do the back shocks .

 

[kgwmu]

I finally tackled this today. I went with the: KYB SRM4544. So far very pleased. Ride height seems identical, and the ride has stiffened back up. Only problem is now I want to do the back shocks .

Are you still liking the KYBs?

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

Are you still liking the KYBs?

Sorry, just noticed this today. I am indeed still pleased with them. Still rides nice and no problems.