I missed it if you did this, but can you load test the motor circuit with, say, a headlight or other relatively high amperage bulb? See if the circuit will carry the current load?
Rear wiper not working anymore. NEW motor worked for a couple days
- Thread starter K-Hill
- Start date
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I didn't do that and not sure how. But the electrical shop I'm going to visit tomorrow should have some answers I'd think. May not test tomorrow but I hope they can get to it soon.
I'm so curious for the final root cause its like solving a game of clue.
Whatever they do and tell you is needed, make sure the paperwork is detailed about testing procedures, findings and what it takes to repair it and detailed pricing with a diagnostic charge, parts charge and labor charge. In other words: An invoice that says: Tested, found bad, replaced and now works=$400., will not work.
my money is on it's not synced properly, a tech2 should be able to show the status (I think)
Let me clarify...the electric shop is a starter alternator rebuilder type of place. They'll bench test it IIRC. Not a shop for full auto Elec repairs. I'm trying to prove the part itself is good or not....then I'm armed with more knowledge if I take the truck in for help.
Electric shop couldn't test motor because unsure which leads needed power and I couldn't fully remember or know the answer either.
Found info online similar situation as mine. Apparently the orange wire needs power(as I understand it) all the time when key is on. I get zero orange power at the motor. Grey wire powers at motor when selector is rotated. If this is true, then I believe my switch is bad because orange wire is powered at the switch but doesn't make it to the motor. Only grey seems to get power.
Ordered switch off eBay. Small gamble but...I guess what's $20-25 more? Hate gambling.
Will update when I get the part.
Thanks all.
Found info online similar situation as mine. Apparently the orange wire needs power(as I understand it) all the time when key is on. I get zero orange power at the motor. Grey wire powers at motor when selector is rotated. If this is true, then I believe my switch is bad because orange wire is powered at the switch but doesn't make it to the motor. Only grey seems to get power.
Ordered switch off eBay. Small gamble but...I guess what's $20-25 more? Hate gambling.
Will update when I get the part.
Thanks all.
orange wire is powered at the switch but doesn't make it to the motor?
Which Switch? the glass popper switch?
The wiper switch at the IP has power on orange wire and if its supposed to make its way to the harness when the key is merely in thr on position as a tech stated then he says the switch / fuse is the problem. My fuse is good.
The glass/hatch switches kill power at the motor harness grey wire so I believe those are not the issue.
So if orange at the motor needs constant power then apparently the switch *is* the issue. Hope this is correct.
As I understand it we have 2 power lines into the motor. Orange constant and grey when wiper is commanded.
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Chrisw_2003
TYF Newbie
Have you checked the plug on the liftgate? the wires there burn out the plugs and it stops working.
I'm unable to solve this issue. However simple or challenging the solution is, my skills are spent.
The replacement switch didn't fix it.
It's going in to shop. I need a frosty a/c line fixed so will see what the wiper is all about. I need my skills to swap cooling hoses on my pickup....haha.
Will repost when it's done. In a couple weeks.
The replacement switch didn't fix it.
It's going in to shop. I need a frosty a/c line fixed so will see what the wiper is all about. I need my skills to swap cooling hoses on my pickup....haha.
Will repost when it's done. In a couple weeks.
Chrisw_2003
TYF Newbie
watch the video I posted above this post im quoting.
Wiper fixed.
The video Chrisw posted was something I wasn't able to do, but that tailgate top connection on psgr side had a broken wire. Easy find for the shop. Nice to have it working now.
And I "got to pay them" to fix my frosting a/c line that was a little low on Freon and had a bad switch and filter...and I had a bad blower motor resistor affecting air flow.
I now have an extra switch and wiper motor for the future..
The video Chrisw posted was something I wasn't able to do, but that tailgate top connection on psgr side had a broken wire. Easy find for the shop. Nice to have it working now.
And I "got to pay them" to fix my frosting a/c line that was a little low on Freon and had a bad switch and filter...and I had a bad blower motor resistor affecting air flow.
I now have an extra switch and wiper motor for the future..
arkie
TYF Newbie
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Op might want to bypass all the wiring and hook motor directly to battery
khill, Earlier in the thread someone posted about an interlock that is supposed to do the opposite of what yours is doing (only let the wiper run when the window is closed). Sounds like an issue with your interlock switch.
