Rear Differential

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thehoe92

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So Friday night I made the dumb mistake of trying to do a burnout and long story short I heard a loud POP mid way through
try to go forward and it was doing this weird limp almost like there was a flat spot on the tire.. then when I tried turning it would skid the passenger side tire and the other one had trouble even rotating
if I made a sharp enough turn it popped REALLY loud
bottom line everyone was saying I was basically up a creek without a paddle and it was going to go on my way home so just drive slow.. on the way home it never made the noise again and never had the symptoms granted I was and have been taking it very easy and not turning nearly as much as I could

anyways.. I know I need a new diff.. is it as simple as ring and pinion and I'm good to go or what else do I need

also since I have to replace it now is the time to lower the gear ration :D
thinking 4.56 with my 295/35/24's
I've always wanted a ton of low end power on command but am I pushing it?

besides installation is this what I need?
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5691

should I go with 4.30 or even 4.11?

whats your opinion and why?
:driver:
 

MUDHOE

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from what ive heard a 410 would be good w/ 33s thats what a shop around here told me for mine
 

KrautBurner

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from what ive heard a 410 would be good w/ 33s thats what a shop around here told me for mine

+1

4.56:1 is really steep
with 33" tires, you'd probably be doing (at least) 2300rpm at 70mph in overdrive
4.11 = 2050 rpm @ 70
4.30 = 2150 rpm @ 70

you're not gonna know what all is broken till you get in there,
hopefully you just sheered a tooth off the ring (so a ring and pinion set is all you need)
you may have ****** up an axle or even your limmited slip.

good luck


BTW,
is your truck 2wd?
(if it's 4wd, you will need to do the front ratio also)

---------- Post added at 07:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 AM ----------


read this:
http://www.ringpinion.com/ContentFr...alInfo//Before_You_Call_For_Rearend_Parts.inc


you're probably gonna need a "shim kit"
(or some sort of "install kit") they will tell you when you call (if you ask)
http://www.ringpinion.com/ContentFr...onKits//What_Does_'Complete'_Really_Mean~.inc

here's a list of instilation kits:
http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList...eID=3&ModelID=340&Side=Rear&DiffID=45&CatID=6
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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its 4wd so even if I don't engage 4wd I'll still need to do the front diff too?
I don't do a lot of freeway driving so I'm not worried about 70mph
what should I get if my limited slip is messed up?
I don't know a lot about the truetrac and eaton posi's and what not
 

clean454

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if u have a bad ring gear or teeth missing then u would hear noises while drive and it would not last long since it still drives smooth straight that tells me that ur limited slip is prolly shot and they are not cheap to get done,

as far as changing the ratio, it would be best to do both at the same time. and the advantage to switching also has its ups and downs.

i would just replace whats broken, i kno a full rebuild (ring and pinnion and limited slip) and install would run you over a grand
and having a shop do it is a good idea then its covered for when/if it breaks again

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:14 PM ----------

or u can just trade it in for that BMW
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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****!!! a grand?! I don't have that kind of money to just throw around to fix the diff..
guess my hoe will be on a limp for a while
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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nah my buddy's dad is a mechanic and he said he would check it out for me.. he said it sounds like something that could be fixed

and the sucky part is driving home tonight I heard the front diff making a weird noise so I guess I will be replacing the whole thing
 

MUDHOE

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when i was 17 i did alota stupid shit like you but now 20 i still do some but you gota learn when to take it easy i had a 99 2dr tahoe and i beat the shit outa it i probably had $3k in the drivetrain that i ****** up. bigger wider tires are hard to turn over
 

DESIGN

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you can do well by finding a used rear differential. Lots of them out there for way cheaper than a grand. Of course you will not have upgraded gears but if the unit is good and cheap you could start with a solid base for adding new gears to.

JB
 

91RS

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If you are 4WD, you HAVE to keep the same gear ratio as the front differential (meaning you need to stay with the stock ratio) or you will nuke more parts. If you do change ratios you will have to get your speedometer fixed because it will be way off.
 

blueflamed03

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gears, $350 with install kit, and if you blew up your G80, expect another $600 for True Trac, then install.


OR, go to salvage yards, find whole rear end to replace yours.
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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I just want to be sure..
this is what the symptoms are

I've noticed lately it will only start to "lock up" on sharp left turns
I can hear it start to seize and then the tires start to hop like its a welded diff
once I turn the wheel back to straight it wants to pull to the left hard
then I have to make a right turn and I will hear a pop and its back to normal again

does that sound like the limited slip unit or do you think it could be the u-joint?
 

blueflamed03

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sounds like rearend. Easy check is pull the rear diff cover off and check teeth. If you need to put it back on only cost you oil and a gasket.
 

JKmotorsports

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Sounds like your LSD is shot. Spider gear pins bent and/or out of place maybe. I picked up a brand new Eaton True-trac for $400 from a diff shop on ebay.
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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thanks jeff!!
anyone want to school me on the different options I could do since my limited slip is obviously shot?
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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driving tonight and I heard 2 loud pops.. turned into jack in the box and it was all downhill from there

looks like I'll be heading to the diff shop tomorrow and walking away with a lighter wallet and satisfaction of knowing I won't have that limited slip garbage in the diff anymore.. and possibly new gears


wish the hoe luck!
 

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