Random driveline clunk when accelerating from a full stop

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KC 2013 Tahoe

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2013 Tahoe, 5.3L, 127K miles.
Bought her used at ~46K miles.
I change the engine oil/filter every 4K miles, Trans fluid/filter every 2 years, transfer case and diff's every year.
Engine runs and idles smoothly, right at 500RPM in Drive per the dash tach.

When pulling away from a traffic light from idle, we'll periodically get a solid "clunk" that you can feel. (probably 1 out of every 4 times)
Feels like its coming from transfer case area but not certain.
Started doing this about a year after getting her, but never have been able to detect where its coming from, nor has it caused any problems.
It's very mild under a light throttle, but very pronounced if you hit the gas hard, say to pull out onto a major street.
Again, the odd thing is that it's periodic and doesn't do this every time.

FWIW, we had the Trans and Torque converter rebuilt 2 years ago at 110K miles after the converter failed. Made no difference at all.
Saw some posts about older models having a slip yoke binding issue, but 2013 was supposed to be well after those issues.
When I'm underneath to service it, there's no unusual play in the driveshafts either to the front or rear diff's.

It's hard to tell exactly, but does feel as if its coming from the transfer case area.
What really stumps me is the periodic nature. If it was wear, would think it would do this every time.
Also seems odd, as I believe the driveline is loaded-up when idling in gear. So even if there is drivelline slop, the preload from the trans being in gear while idling should keep any lash from being felt. Very odd.

Kevin
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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2013 Tahoe, 5.3L, 127K miles.
Bought her used at ~46K miles.
I change the engine oil/filter every 4K miles, Trans fluid/filter every 2 years, transfer case and diff's every year.
Engine runs and idles smoothly, right at 500RPM in Drive per the dash tach.

When pulling away from a traffic light from idle, we'll periodically get a solid "clunk" that you can feel. (probably 1 out of every 4 times)
Feels like its coming from transfer case area but not certain.
Started doing this about a year after getting her, but never have been able to detect where its coming from, nor has it caused any problems.
It's very mild under a light throttle, but very pronounced if you hit the gas hard, say to pull out onto a major street.
Again, the odd thing is that it's periodic and doesn't do this every time.

FWIW, we had the Trans and Torque converter rebuilt 2 years ago at 110K miles after the converter failed. Made no difference at all.
Saw some posts about older models having a slip yoke binding issue, but 2013 was supposed to be well after those issues.
When I'm underneath to service it, there's no unusual play in the driveshafts either to the front or rear diff's.

It's hard to tell exactly, but does feel as if its coming from the transfer case area.
What really stumps me is the periodic nature. If it was wear, would think it would do this every time.
Also seems odd, as I believe the driveline is loaded-up when idling in gear. So even if there is drivelline slop, the preload from the trans being in gear while idling should keep any lash from being felt. Very odd.

Kevin
motor mounts and front diff mounts are both known to cause this as well a broken or missing sway bar end link
 
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KC 2013 Tahoe

KC 2013 Tahoe

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Guys - Thanks so much for your spot-on advice!

Brake torqued the engine with the hood up and couldn't believe how much it moved... I could make it "thunk" on command with the accelerator. O'Reilly had 1 mount that I bought yesterday, with the other arriving today.
Those suckers list at $90 but with my discount they were $37.15 each (I have a small side business working on collector cars).

Will be replacing them Saturday and will let you all know how it goes.
BTW - The front sway bar bushings and end links looked OK, but could stand a refresh after 11 years of Arizona summer heat.
Didn't get to the front diff mounts, but will check them when I'm under there doing this.

Thanks again for the great advice!

Kevin

Power Torque Engine Mount​

Line: PTQ Item: C3211

orly_c3211_101_fro.jpg

orly_c3211_202_ang_primary.jpg

orly_c3211_303_lef.jpg

orly_c3211_404_bac.jpg

orly_c3211_505_rit.jpg


https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/javascript:void(0)
 

j91z28d1

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Guys - Thanks so much for your spot-on advice!

Brake torqued the engine with the hood up and couldn't believe how much it moved... I could make it "thunk" on command with the accelerator. O'Reilly had 1 mount that I bought yesterday, with the other arriving today.
Those suckers list at $90 but with my discount they were $37.15 each (I have a small side business working on collector cars).

Will be replacing them Saturday and will let you all know how it goes.
BTW - The front sway bar bushings and end links looked OK, but could stand a refresh after 11 years of Arizona summer heat.
Didn't get to the front diff mounts, but will check them when I'm under there doing this.

Thanks again for the great advice!

Kevin

Power Torque Engine Mount​

Line: PTQ Item: C3211

View attachment 424877
View attachment 424878
View attachment 424879
View attachment 424880
View attachment 424881

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/javascript:void(0)


watch some youtube videos. it looks like a rough install.

let us know how it goes, I've been putting mine off but I'm sure it needs them like they all do
 

mikez71

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Just did driver's side, not toooo bad.
Kinda easy, kinda worried, tired and scraped up feeling after I was done.

jack up truck / put on stands
remove wheel (6 nuts)
remove inner fender liner (4? 7mm screws and maybe 8? or so push pins) a few electrical plugs (push them up with a pliers)
crank steering wheel one way (so you can't possibly clock anything wrong) and remove steering coupler (2 bolts)
destroy mount heatshield so you can see the bolts to block
jack up engine on that side

Now you need the right short extensions/wobbles/angle ratchets whatever to loosen the 7 bolts.
and wiggle the mount out of there!

The H3 mount does have a sleeker heatshield which may make installation a tiny bit easier.

Passenger side looks like starter needs to come out...
 

mikez71

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I tried without disconnecting steering, but could not wiggle the mount out of there!

Now on the pass side..starter out, heatshields off, bolts out (that front lower one was fun, swivel head 72 tooth was useful) and mount is loose!
BUT looking like exhaust manifold has to come out.. unless I loosen the driver side mount and try to lift the engine more..
 

solli5pack

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I did both of mine two week ago. D/S wasn't bad but P/S was p.i.t.a. Lots if YouTube videos showing many different angles of attack. If the exhaust manifold was removed both side would be a cake walk but that's no easy feat on old truck. I would say the below swivel attachments are mandatory to get to the bolts. I also utilized impact tools and used the job as a reason to finally buy a battery powered impact wrench. I paid the dealer $1100 to do the d/s on my Suburban 4 years ago.
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89Suburban

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I did both of mine two week ago. D/S wasn't bad but P/S was p.i.t.a. Lots if YouTube videos showing many different angles of attack. If the exhaust manifold was removed both side would be a cake walk but that's no easy feat on old truck. I would say the below swivel attachments are mandatory to get to the bolts. I also utilized impact tools and used the job as a reason to finally buy a battery powered impact wrench. I paid the dealer $1100 to do the d/s on my Suburban 4 years ago.View attachment 424899
Yeah man! I just got one of those a month ago I LOVE IT!
 

j91z28d1

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the hummer ones don't need a heat shield?

I can see how that would make it a bit eaiser to get in. one video I watched the guy had to take the pass side mount itself apart from a bracket to get it in.

not that it matters for you guys, but I have to laugh about having a giant 300v inverter sitting above my passenger side hiding everything lol. but I don't have a stater to remove haha. fml
 

mikez71

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Hummer heatshield is smaller, inside of bolts instead of enclosing the engine bolts.

I wonder if 4WD has anything to do with getting it out without removing the steering shaft.
@donjetman Did your driver mount come out the side above the frame rail?
 

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