Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

back to throwing belts fml

ive lost 3 belts today, two new ones and the old one i had it before i took it apart. ive got a new tensioner but it doesnt feel any stronger than the one thats on it now. i may try and space the pulley out a washer or two. the outside of my og belt started to fray up. i dont know. i ordered a couple more till i figure it out.

also ordered a generic coolant overflow tank seemed to want to spit some out and pull it back in after it cools down

 

[Dantheman1540]

back to throwing belts fml

ive lost 3 belts today, two new ones and the old one i had it before i took it apart. ive got a new tensioner but it doesnt feel any stronger than the one thats on it now. i may try and space the pulley out a washer or two. the outside of my og belt started to fray up. i dont know. i ordered a couple more till i figure it out.

also ordered a generic coolant overflow tank seemed to want to spit some out and pull it back in after it cools down

I have a laser belt alignment tool set if you want to borrow it.

 

[randeez]

I have a laser belt alignment tool set if you want to borrow it.

i might take you up on that. rode around town and grabbed all the 505k6 belts, spaced the pulley on the tensioner out a decent washer, prob a little less than 1/8 in and it made a trip with a couple pulls and stayed on. the plastic pulley itself kinda wobbles, maybe bearing a little worn, so i may see if i can find a steel one to replace it with

and the magnafuel pump has quit working again not sure if relays or pump, dont really feel like ****** with it. will prob order the aeromotive in another week or two. just spent my allowance getting the trans back together so gotta wait

 

[randeez]

Err nevermind, popped the hood riding the inside of it a little bit lol, going to take the washer out , maybe shorten the spacers that came with this kit a hair

 

[randeez]

on going problems:

took a look at fuel crap, ive been running it full time to keep it primed and not having it continuously turning on and off. cheap relay bases lost the control wire...found that and fixed it but pump just wont turn on, even just jumping it from the battery. think its done

engine temps:
without the ac on it seems to do great, with the chiller i need to run ac most of the time though - idling it looks like it will maintain about 185* with the ac on which is fine...but cruising after like 20-30mins it climbs up to about 220 is as high as ive let it go. i jumped out the fans to make sure they were working right, spinning the right way, lo/hi was correct, set the on/offs differently. also cruising the ac compressor is turning higher rpm also - which is going to add to the pressure so i may need to check pressures with it rpm steady and above idle speed 1500-2000rpm or something

im going to go back to the ac pressures, in the first 30mins of driving the high side pressure stays good 240-250psi after that the pressure jumps up to 280psi+ and temp starts to climb - i dont know if it gets heat soaked or dryer/accumulator allows more to circulate but i think i need to run it and heat soak it into that range and then troubleshoot.

it sucks cause my gauge ports hi side is after the condenser, not between the compressor and condenser where i think it should be. low side on suction where it needs to be. the pressure sensor the truck sees is between the compressor and condenser, so i need to hook gauge up and look at that sensor. over the weekend while i was trouble shooting about 90* outside, out the vents it was blowing about 55* pressure on the hi side was a little high so i pulled some refrigerant out, temp dropped to about 52 at the vent, pulled a little more and it went back up to 55 - but i may not have waiting long enough for the dryer/accumulator to allow more t ocirculate, gave it a quick shot and dropped back down to 52ish. but pressure was still about 25psi too high on the hi side, ive read this could cause the condenser to not work as efficiently and put off a lot of heat (which it would be expelling right onto the radiator). i may try and get the hi side pressure down to where it should be (250psi) from 275-285psi its at now, and then add take away to get the coldest vent temp.

havent really messed with the belt - i just pulled the washer out from behind the tensioner pulley and threw a new belt on it, you can see where its rubber in the tensioner i would need to move it closer to the block to make it quit doing that, but it only happens high rpm bracket flexing or something i dont know. may see if i can find a pulley with some higher sides to keep the belt between it

i will probably flush the cooling system and install some fresh 50/50...ive been changing up steam vent/overflow hoses and crap so much, and bit of the copper spray made it into there kinda copper cloudy looking

havent noticed anything leaking, but i also havent lifted it back up and looked very close, just no drip spots under it

 

[randeez]

alrighty...so im down a big pump so all i can do is putt putt around anyway, so i decided to go out and see how hot it would get with the ac on, and of course it stayed perfectly cool, under 200 just how i would like it too. which in a way confirmed exactly what i thought lol.
so i graphed the ac pressure (green line) in the log next to the ECT (yellow line)

top cut was from a few days ago you can see the ac pressure cycling for a while - then all the sudden it just goes up and stays on a little over half way thru, thats when ECT starts to rise. where the pointer is its already at 261 so it continues to rise in pressure from there. also log shows ac clutch engages the whole time and fans off (fan off may be because of speed) but odd that compressor stayed on

bottom cut it it worked exactly like it should, temp rise over the entire trip went from 176>194 which is what i would expect it to do with the ac on. only real difference being i didnt do as many pulls (because no fuel pump) but cruising without ac on at all yields temp around 170 a couple degree rise after pull but comes back down pretty quick

 

[randeez]

So what's confusing is: it seems like when the fans come on, even on low they drop the pressure/temp, but the fans aren't even coming on. Which they should be because of the ac pressure and because of the ect (low to high should happen at about 190*) but they aren't coming on at all

im going to try and set the stock settings back for the ac pressure x fan % and disable/enable rpm and crap. basically i tried to make it disable the rpm over 3500rpm (enable when it drops back under 3400) stock was set 0/0 so im thinking it may be control by the bcm elsewhere and whatever ive done is causing a problem

 

[randeez]

so anyway... i start blastin spendin'

i ordered another big fuel pump, i got "the hook up" as the kids say. friend of mine started a business selling oem and aftermarket parts a year or two ago between jobs. i didnt really bug him for stuff cause whatever half the time i order stuff i dont need, send stuff back, i didnt want him to be in the middle of it. he been buggin me - stopped by last weekend and he looked up a few parts for me and he could get them considerably less than msrp. gave him the part no for the pump im looking at and got it ordered, threw a couple bux on top of it should be here next week. so i can get it sent over to fabricator.

talked with fab guy about building a surge tank to go in the driverside battery box, i measured to make sure there was enough height there and we confirmed it with a similar truck up at his work, pump needs minimum 10" which seemed good had a comfortable 12" if we need it. and he doesnt need my truck sitting there the whole time to do it, since about any chevy truck from 2000+ has the same tray and theres a few there at any given time. i will prob bring mine over there before he does finish welding to make sure it fits 100%

tank a little bigger than the battery should yield ~2gal capacity. lines to the fuel rail will be short, going to route stock pump feed to the surge tank, keep the flex fuel sensor in that line, probably add a very fine 5-10 micron filter on it and hopefully not have to put a filter on the big pump outlet, and possibly add a fuel cooler tied into the chilled water or at least provisions for it if needed, and run a huge return 10/12an back to stock tank, make some changes in the tune to lower the psi it targets.

 

[randeez]

What do you all think about hanging the battery under the radiator support?

 

[randeez]

 

[Rocket Man]

View attachment 346315View attachment 346316View attachment 346316

That’s where the one on my Silverado is because of the tubs. Works great, just have to remove the bumper to change it out. It won’t get stolen for sure.

 

[randeez]

say no more! done!

i was probably going to get a more "rugged" battery tray and face the battery back towards the engine, one that the clamp/brace encloses the whole thing, jacking it up i would be able to get it in and out it looks like, would make wiring a million times easier than installing it back where the spare tire was and running wire all the way forward. i dont think its going to take any more heat than where its already installed, if anything it would prob have more air circulate around it down in front. obvious downside is hitting anyone/thing, its about a a foot behind the crash bar and behind lowered any car i hit wouldnt go under it...crap on the road im pretty good about not hitting

do you notice the terminals getting gunked up or anything? they look pretty clean in the pic

 

[Tonyrodz]

say no more! done!

i was probably going to get a more "rugged" battery tray and face the battery back towards the engine, one that the clamp/brace encloses the whole thing, jacking it up i would be able to get it in and out it looks like, would make wiring a million times easier than installing it back where the spare tire was and running wire all the way forward. i dont think its going to take any more heat than where its already installed, if anything it would prob have more air circulate around it down in front. obvious downside is hitting anyone/thing, its about a a foot behind the crash bar and behind lowered any car i hit wouldnt go under it...crap on the road im pretty good about not hitting

do you notice the terminals getting gunked up or anything? they look pretty clean in the pic

View attachment 346319

Hitting or driving over debris would also be my concern. Don't drive through alligator alley and you'll be fine.

 

[Rocket Man]

say no more! done!

i was probably going to get a more "rugged" battery tray and face the battery back towards the engine, one that the clamp/brace encloses the whole thing, jacking it up i would be able to get it in and out it looks like, would make wiring a million times easier than installing it back where the spare tire was and running wire all the way forward. i dont think its going to take any more heat than where its already installed, if anything it would prob have more air circulate around it down in front. obvious downside is hitting anyone/thing, its about a a foot behind the crash bar and behind lowered any car i hit wouldnt go under it...crap on the road im pretty good about not hitting

do you notice the terminals getting gunked up or anything? they look pretty clean in the pic

View attachment 346319

Well since I never drive it in the rain…no problem.

But I doubt you’ll have any issues. I feel that area mostly sees just rain unless you’re eating somebody’s rooster tails. And I don’t see your truck eating anything other than fuel.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Dewit

Edit:late to the party. It should be fine there

 

[randeez]

still messing with ac.... after a few test runs, i drove it around till it started with the high discharge pressure crap. brought it back home and hooked the gauges on it then, i "adjusted" the high side pressure then and got it back down in the 260psi range. you can toggle on the compressor with hpt so i did that to keep compressor running, rev'd it up a little, re-adjusted etc.

i cant really turn off the system going to the chiller, it has a thermostatic valve so when it gets cold enough it should close - best i could do, turned off the water flow to it. i was trying to see how much i have of a drop across the condenser (the gauge port is on the cabin ac side and splits to go to the chiller before. the gauge port is way down to like 100psi, when the discharge sensor reads like 150psi. so i dont think that is right. i will prob try replacing the condenser.

with the chiller pump turned off the psi stays like 140-160 temp coming out of the ac vents is low 50s (90* ambient). when you start up the intercooler pump the psi starts to rise and settles around 200psi on the discharge pressure sensor. ac vent rises about 7-8* so i dont know wtf. if i hose down the condenser psi drops back down on the sensor. thinking the condenser might be the prob

Gaining a little confidence with the cooling system, I let it ride with the high pressure and it gets to like 220 before it finally stopped climbing.


ordered a new condenser and compressor to condenser hose. i have a different orifice valve ill also throw in while its all apart - sposed to be for hotter climates

 

[randeez]

Pita....
So this is where I'm at, 95*day...both sides work great, by themselves. Together pressure/ect starts to climb with both on high. I can slow the intercooler pump way down to 10% or lower the fan speed on the cabin ac and temps stay pretty good 205ish.

It's weird trying to adjust the pressures, they act like two completely separate systems. I don't have any test ports on the chiller side so I had to crack open one of the fittings to lower the high side psi

Got nearly done, took it for a drive and noticed bank A stft was way off...looks like header caught a spark plug wire, and it about melted the ECT Sensor- I'll prob move it to the manifold on the front of engine. But I need to tap one of the holes out larger

 

[randeez]

the wheels are in motion for fuel surge tank, but i guess the pumps are made to order so it may be a few weeks out. and knowing my welder, itll be minimum another 4 weeks. so i was going to buy another one of the pumps i have now just as an easy swap and be able to beat on it a little in the mean time.
BUT searching for the cheapest price, or even a used working one, i saw they have brush rebuild kits and seal kits for it pretty cheap - so if i can get the one ive got working again for 50bux and it hangs on a few weeks ill be happy.

i also have an injector going to **** i think - after the hours of idling over the weekend i went for a quick drive and had bank A wanting almost 20% more fuel meaning a dead cylinder basically. a few pages back i noticed the injectors working better with 60psi than the oe 43psi at low demand... i bumped up the stock pump to a minimum of 50psi and it seemed ok. but one injector seems completely dead right now.

i'll trouble shoot after its running again (it runs just no coolant in it) im moving the coolant temp sensor to the water manifold in the front, need to splice a new connector(ordered it and a new sensor) on and extend anyway since thats what melted. the manifold has 1/8" NPT threads in it, the ECT has a 12mmx1.5 thread so waiting on a drill and tap. i'll see if the injector comes back alive with more psi.

i made up a dual fuel pump relay deal, kinda sloppy though...leash electronics makes a nice, compact dual 70amp relay board, potted, incorporates jcase fuses, single large feed etc all in one deal. should work for new pump also and should clean up that wiring a lot.

 

[Rocket Man]

the wheels are in motion for fuel surge tank, but i guess the pumps are made to order so it may be a few weeks out. and knowing my welder, itll be minimum another 4 weeks. so i was going to buy another one of the pumps i have now just as an easy swap and be able to beat on it a little in the mean time.
BUT searching for the cheapest price, or even a used working one, i saw they have brush rebuild kits and seal kits for it pretty cheap - so if i can get the one ive got working again for 50bux and it hangs on a few weeks ill be happy.

i also have an injector going to **** i think - after the hours of idling over the weekend i went for a quit drive and had bank A wanting almost 20% more fuel meaning a dead cylinder basically. a few pages back i noticed the injectors working better with 60psi than the oe 43psi at low demand... i bumped up the stock pump to a minimum of 50psi and it seemed ok. but one injector seems completely dead right now.

i'll trouble shoot after its running again (it runs just no coolant in it) im moving the coolant temp sensor to the water manifold in the front, need to splice a new connector(ordered it and a new sensor) on and extend anyway since thats what melted. the manifold has 1/8" NPT threads in it, the ECT has a 12mmx1.5 thread so waiting on a drill and tap. i'll see if the injector comes back alive with more psi.

i made up a dual fuel pump relay deal, kinda sloppy though...leash electronics makes a nice, compact dual 70amp relay board, potted, incorporates jcase fuses, single large feed etc all in one deal. should work for new pump also and should clean up that wiring a lot.

View attachment 346507

That looks like a nice little relay setup I'll have to check out their site. I'm always into cleaning up wiring, maybe they have something I can use.

Edit: that was quick, they don't have much stuff...

 

[randeez]

That looks like a nice little relay setup I'll have to check out their site. I'm always into cleaning up wiring, maybe they have something I can use.

they have some nice relay boards, i knew they made boost controllers but never really looked at their site - diff forum someone posted a single relay board of theirs and i was like man a dual relay like that would kickass. and there it is, on their website

i like them and the ARC (auto rod controls) relay boards. im still going to end up needing one with 4 or 6 relays probably. ill see how the leash feels when ive got it in hand