I thought people liked the large size colonoscopy cameras. “Doc, is that all you got? Give it to me!”
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
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I thought people liked the large size colonoscopy cameras. “Doc, is that all you got? Give it to me!”
Yall Oregon boys wild
.
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randeez
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for me with the thicker wire, low enough voltage so it didnt want to blow right thru meant the material would just blob up and not lay flat
the little bit of .030 i did last night didnt come out too bad
the little bit of .030 i did last night didnt come out too bad
pwtr02ss
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Less heat to melt the wire. Less potential for blow through
Dantheman1540
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randeez
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we didnt know you
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
There are no strangers amongst car guys
pwtr02ss
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randeez
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i ordered some more small stainless wire, need to weld on o2 bungs - probably directly onto the headers. trying to keep it so i can remove the exhaust real easy and get to everything in the front of the engine.
and when i suck it up and order some 5" bends i can start working on that, it needs a bung for wideband also. i think i can just about make it with 2 - 45s.
a little pet project i want to get working on is closing up where the turbo sits in that opening. i grabbed some aluminum to build a barrier, and im thinking about grabbing a "velocity stack" (not a true one but similar, and all i can find) to pretty much line up with the turbo - IE it will stay on the core support and i can remove the turbo from behind it. the turbo inlet is 5.5" i was going to order a 6". and the turbo is set back behind the core support so the depth should line up about with the front of the core support
and when i suck it up and order some 5" bends i can start working on that, it needs a bung for wideband also. i think i can just about make it with 2 - 45s.
a little pet project i want to get working on is closing up where the turbo sits in that opening. i grabbed some aluminum to build a barrier, and im thinking about grabbing a "velocity stack" (not a true one but similar, and all i can find) to pretty much line up with the turbo - IE it will stay on the core support and i can remove the turbo from behind it. the turbo inlet is 5.5" i was going to order a 6". and the turbo is set back behind the core support so the depth should line up about with the front of the core support
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randeez
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Ordered a couple 5" stainless bends and a little bit of straight pipe to get down pipe figured out- Ordered the flange for the turbo a few weeks ago. Summit order for some 5/8 tubing to run turbo drain, and a few other things.
In the mean time....need to get the bangbus cleaned up and road worthy again. The drivers door handle was froze up and messed up, tore it apart and soaked the latchy spring thing and it came back to life, I ordered another one off ebay so I'll keep it around as a spare.
Rockauto order for some maintenance stuff...air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, and the main reason it was parked was cause the glow plug controller stayed lit up the entire time and would drain the bigass battery (even a brand new one) over night. So I ordered a new controller - at the time all I could get was the oem that was ~$500 bux, aftermarket now available for 150.
2010 MB sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel 170 wheel base
Very similar to the dodge sprinter mechanically.except the electronics and control systems are all modules can bussed together n crap. Sucks to work on
In the mean time....need to get the bangbus cleaned up and road worthy again. The drivers door handle was froze up and messed up, tore it apart and soaked the latchy spring thing and it came back to life, I ordered another one off ebay so I'll keep it around as a spare.
Rockauto order for some maintenance stuff...air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, and the main reason it was parked was cause the glow plug controller stayed lit up the entire time and would drain the bigass battery (even a brand new one) over night. So I ordered a new controller - at the time all I could get was the oem that was ~$500 bux, aftermarket now available for 150.
2010 MB sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel 170 wheel base
Very similar to the dodge sprinter mechanically.except the electronics and control systems are all modules can bussed together n crap. Sucks to work on
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randeez
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pretty much just hitting it with the pressure washer and soaking it, its going to need some hard scrubbing to get it cleaned up nice again - might try and find pre soak wash or something.
i'll prob end up swapping brakes pads/rotors, fuel filter. i kind of want to see what the denali 20s on it look like, but will need an adapter and the stock wheels are 60mm offset of something like that so they are going to stick way out i think
i'll prob end up swapping brakes pads/rotors, fuel filter. i kind of want to see what the denali 20s on it look like, but will need an adapter and the stock wheels are 60mm offset of something like that so they are going to stick way out i think
FrankU
Full Access Member
We had a fleet of those Sprinters in our uniform rental business. Parts were reasonable then Mercedes took over. We sold them after selling the business they all had well over 400K miles. The bodies were fatigued but the drive trains were still in excellent shape.
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randeez
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the paint on this thing i horrible, have several places that are rusting i need to prep, seal and paint.
there is only 33k miles on it lol, aside from the controller killing the battery repeatedly it starts up and runs buttery smooth, was getting almost 27mpg
there is only 33k miles on it lol, aside from the controller killing the battery repeatedly it starts up and runs buttery smooth, was getting almost 27mpg
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randeez
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had the glow plug controller unplugged for a couple days, i set van up with a battery tender plug because it doesnt get driven all that often and needed something to maintain the battery anyway. it does show as fully charged and maintaining now so thats good. i replaced controller yesterday but havent looked at it.
racetruck business;
i painted the little turbo mount i made, its oringed and the drain threads into the bottom of it (stays in if turbo is pulled) - kind of against my better judgment i made a hardline for it. really shouldnt because it goes to the oil pan and engine vibrates, should have a flex section, but its just a bad route to get it to there, too many hard bends it needs to do to get there and stay going downhill. the fitting in the pan is right by the engine mount so it should move "that" much, its soft aluminum so its not soo rigid but i think it will anneal if it moved back and forth too much and eventually break.
5" down pipe parts should be here this week, going to cost over 500bux just to get out of the engine bay
a 4" dump out the hood would have been way cheaper lol
need to order another 46mm waste gate(or two) or sandblast the housing on the one i have that is...pink, and then run dumps from each of them somewhere? prob just down thru the splash guard.
headers gonna come off one last time, need to weld o2 bungs at the collector of each, was waiting till i had more stuff to weld and then they can go back on for the last time.
trying to get underhood all buttoned up and then onto fuel system. my 1200c injectors are cleaned and all sealed up nice - prob going to stay that way. i'll grab some larger ones when im closer to startup.
i think im going to end up doing some sort of a surge tank setup.
for a few reasons:
vs current set up (stock pump and sumped big pump) im still having issues with turning big pump on and off constantly, fuel slosh, location of big pump, and i think the check valves i have where the two Y together may be failing and causing drop in pressure, worked decent but isnt a great long term solution.
vs fuel cell - my main hangup is capacity. with the stock 26gal tank on e85 i barely make 200miles to a tank, nearest station is about 30 miles away, so no more playing when i get down to about 1/4 tank and have to worry about starving the pump. the ethanol sensor only flows so much, they make fittings to bypass some of it but bleh.
with a surge tank, i can just command the stock pump to flow low psi to keep the surge tank topped off (low psi wouldnt heat fuel up, and will have to run a return/overflow back to the stock tank). i figured i can put the ethanol sensor in the line going to the surge tank so it may skew if im swapping fuels, but would mostly just need to give it time to circulate and settle. big pump in a surge tank would almost never be starved, would gain another couple gallons of fuel capacity.
racetruck business;
i painted the little turbo mount i made, its oringed and the drain threads into the bottom of it (stays in if turbo is pulled) - kind of against my better judgment i made a hardline for it. really shouldnt because it goes to the oil pan and engine vibrates, should have a flex section, but its just a bad route to get it to there, too many hard bends it needs to do to get there and stay going downhill. the fitting in the pan is right by the engine mount so it should move "that" much, its soft aluminum so its not soo rigid but i think it will anneal if it moved back and forth too much and eventually break.
5" down pipe parts should be here this week, going to cost over 500bux just to get out of the engine bay
a 4" dump out the hood would have been way cheaper lol need to order another 46mm waste gate(or two) or sandblast the housing on the one i have that is...pink, and then run dumps from each of them somewhere? prob just down thru the splash guard.
headers gonna come off one last time, need to weld o2 bungs at the collector of each, was waiting till i had more stuff to weld and then they can go back on for the last time.
trying to get underhood all buttoned up and then onto fuel system. my 1200c injectors are cleaned and all sealed up nice - prob going to stay that way. i'll grab some larger ones when im closer to startup.
i think im going to end up doing some sort of a surge tank setup.
for a few reasons:
vs current set up (stock pump and sumped big pump) im still having issues with turning big pump on and off constantly, fuel slosh, location of big pump, and i think the check valves i have where the two Y together may be failing and causing drop in pressure, worked decent but isnt a great long term solution.
vs fuel cell - my main hangup is capacity. with the stock 26gal tank on e85 i barely make 200miles to a tank, nearest station is about 30 miles away, so no more playing when i get down to about 1/4 tank and have to worry about starving the pump. the ethanol sensor only flows so much, they make fittings to bypass some of it but bleh.
with a surge tank, i can just command the stock pump to flow low psi to keep the surge tank topped off (low psi wouldnt heat fuel up, and will have to run a return/overflow back to the stock tank). i figured i can put the ethanol sensor in the line going to the surge tank so it may skew if im swapping fuels, but would mostly just need to give it time to circulate and settle. big pump in a surge tank would almost never be starved, would gain another couple gallons of fuel capacity.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Leave that wastegate pink!had the glow plug controller unplugged for a couple days, i set van up with a battery tender plug because it doesnt get driven all that often and needed something to maintain the battery anyway. it does show as fully charged and maintaining now so thats good. i replaced controller yesterday but havent looked at it.
racetruck business;
i painted the little turbo mount i made, its oringed and the drain threads into the bottom of it (stays in if turbo is pulled) - kind of against my better judgment i made a hardline for it. really shouldnt because it goes to the oil pan and engine vibrates, should have a flex section, but its just a bad route to get it to there, too many hard bends it needs to do to get there and stay going downhill. the fitting in the pan is right by the engine mount so it should move "that" much, its soft aluminum so its not soo rigid but i think it will anneal if it moved back and forth too much and eventually break.
5" down pipe parts should be here this week, going to cost over 500bux just to get out of the engine bay
need to order another 46mm waste gate(or two) or sandblast the housing on the one i have that is...pink, and then run dumps from each of them somewhere? prob just down thru the splash guard.
headers gonna come off one last time, need to weld o2 bungs at the collector of each, was waiting till i had more stuff to weld and then they can go back on for the last time.
trying to get underhood all buttoned up and then onto fuel system. my 1200c injectors are cleaned and all sealed up nice - prob going to stay that way. i'll grab some larger ones when im closer to startup.
i think im going to end up doing some sort of a surge tank setup.
for a few reasons:
vs current set up (stock pump and sumped big pump) im still having issues with turning big pump on and off constantly, fuel slosh, location of big pump, and i think the check valves i have where the two Y together may be failing and causing drop in pressure, worked decent but isnt a great long term solution.
vs fuel cell - my main hangup is capacity. with the stock 26gal tank on e85 i barely make 200miles to a tank, nearest station is about 30 miles away, so no more playing when i get down to about 1/4 tank and have to worry about starving the pump. the ethanol sensor only flows so much, they make fittings to bypass some of it but bleh.
with a surge tank, i can just command the stock pump to flow low psi to keep the surge tank topped off (low psi wouldnt heat fuel up, and will have to run a return/overflow back to the stock tank). i figured i can put the ethanol sensor in the line going to the surge tank so it may skew if im swapping fuels, but would mostly just need to give it time to circulate and settle. big pump in a surge tank would almost never be starved, would gain another couple gallons of fuel capacity.
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randeez
Full Access Member
Thoughts on hood pins? I think they're kind of tacky, but pretty sure gm didn't plan on idiots doin 150+mph.
Quick latch makes some nice looking low profile ones, they have some with 3/8 post and some with 1/2" would get polished maybe eventually get painted:
Quick latch makes some nice looking low profile ones, they have some with 3/8 post and some with 1/2" would get polished maybe eventually get painted:
shouldn't need them with a oem hood, if it was carbon fiber or something other than oem then yesThoughts on hood pins? I think they're kind of tacky, but pretty sure gm didn't plan on idiots doin 150+mph.
Quick latch makes some nice looking low profile ones, they have some with 3/8 post and some with 1/2" would get polished maybe eventually get painted:
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
had the glow plug controller unplugged for a couple days, i set van up with a battery tender plug because it doesnt get driven all that often and needed something to maintain the battery anyway. it does show as fully charged and maintaining now so thats good. i replaced controller yesterday but havent looked at it.
racetruck business;
i painted the little turbo mount i made, its oringed and the drain threads into the bottom of it (stays in if turbo is pulled) - kind of against my better judgment i made a hardline for it. really shouldnt because it goes to the oil pan and engine vibrates, should have a flex section, but its just a bad route to get it to there, too many hard bends it needs to do to get there and stay going downhill. the fitting in the pan is right by the engine mount so it should move "that" much, its soft aluminum so its not soo rigid but i think it will anneal if it moved back and forth too much and eventually break.
5" down pipe parts should be here this week, going to cost over 500bux just to get out of the engine bay
need to order another 46mm waste gate(or two) or sandblast the housing on the one i have that is...pink, and then run dumps from each of them somewhere? prob just down thru the splash guard.
headers gonna come off one last time, need to weld o2 bungs at the collector of each, was waiting till i had more stuff to weld and then they can go back on for the last time.
trying to get underhood all buttoned up and then onto fuel system. my 1200c injectors are cleaned and all sealed up nice - prob going to stay that way. i'll grab some larger ones when im closer to startup.
i think im going to end up doing some sort of a surge tank setup.
for a few reasons:
vs current set up (stock pump and sumped big pump) im still having issues with turning big pump on and off constantly, fuel slosh, location of big pump, and i think the check valves i have where the two Y together may be failing and causing drop in pressure, worked decent but isnt a great long term solution.
vs fuel cell - my main hangup is capacity. with the stock 26gal tank on e85 i barely make 200miles to a tank, nearest station is about 30 miles away, so no more playing when i get down to about 1/4 tank and have to worry about starving the pump. the ethanol sensor only flows so much, they make fittings to bypass some of it but bleh.
with a surge tank, i can just command the stock pump to flow low psi to keep the surge tank topped off (low psi wouldnt heat fuel up, and will have to run a return/overflow back to the stock tank). i figured i can put the ethanol sensor in the line going to the surge tank so it may skew if im swapping fuels, but would mostly just need to give it time to circulate and settle. big pump in a surge tank would almost never be starved, would gain another couple gallons of fuel capacity.
I love the surge tank idea, thats something I have considered many times in my silverado as I had pretty bad fuel slosh issues below a quarter tank. I hope you do it so I can steal ideas for the future.
What all in your exhaust are you redoing? Gonna have a bunch of 4" stuff going in the trash?
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randeez
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you prob aint gonna like my idea.... but this is why i canceled the order for the 7gpm pump a while back.
they sell a 6 gallon fuel cell with the pump already set up, feed, return, vent. i think its right about 12x12x12, put behind axle (no spare tire)
it would need to have a bung welded on for the feed from stock tank
use the vent bung as the overflow back to the stock tank if there isnt some kind of a float built into it or just weld another bung.
delete the fuel fill door, i dont think just leaving it closed all the time would work for me.
