Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

first time around, i had the whole lower intake out. a lot easier to put together cause theres a rope type of oring that goes between them and put the whole thing in as one unit. not much room with it in the truck already and you cant slide the top in because the oring jumps out of the groove. i got it in place put a few bolts thru just to keep it aligned and lifted it up as much as i could to check the oring about 10 times from every angle. so hopefully i didnt mess it up
the back coolant fitting i need to put on before it goes in so that was fun trying to hold it, lined up and thread it in. didnt drain the coolant so both hoses if i didnt keep them elevated itd pour out.
i flipped the throttle body back over - i put it to the driver side when the turbo was right on the otherside close to the motor.
made a little bracket for the pressure manifold to mount it to the side of the intake so i can clean up the tubes to the wastegates, bov, fpr, hobs, etc.
grabbed some black hose and fittings to change out that stainless braided one (to match the larger hoses)

 

[Rocket Man]

first time around, i had the whole lower intake out. a lot easier to put together cause theres a rope type of oring that goes between them and put the whole thing in as one unit. not much room with it in the truck already and you cant slide the top in because the oring jumps out of the groove. i got it in place put a few bolts thru just to keep it aligned and lifted it up as much as i could to check the oring about 10 times from every angle. so hopefully i didnt mess it up
the back coolant fitting i need to put on before it goes in so that was fun trying to hold it, lined up and thread it in. didnt drain the coolant so both hoses if i didnt keep them elevated itd pour out.
i flipped the throttle body back over - i put it to the driver side when the turbo was right on the otherside close to the motor.
made a little bracket for the pressure manifold to mount it to the side of the intake so i can clean up the tubes to the wastegates, bov, fpr, hobs, etc.
grabbed some black hose and fittings to change out that stainless braided one (to match the larger hoses)

That’s how my Whipple goes in, with that rope type o-ring between the lower intake manifold and the blower. It’s a bit*h to install. Hope you got it in right and there’s no leaks. The first time I did it, they left out the addendum to the instructions that showed the extra intake manifold gaskets on the lower part, intake manifold to the block so I just used the o-rings that came with it and left the others off since it didn’t make sense to me to use both. I found out as soon as I started the engine that they were needed so it all came back out. Massive leaks.

 

[randeez]

got new manifold on, went for a rip, test n tune a couple passes just to make sure everything else was back together.
stock transfercase still sucksass. not sure if im going to do another np149 or what, may leave it alone till i find a good deal on another used one.

i tried a few transbrake launches rpm down to like 3000rpm (ive launch 4500+ before) and still spins about 30' out when all the boost ramps in, really not matter where i launch at. I foot braked it up to probably 2500rpm, which it leaves on barely any boost 1-2psi. but rpm was a little too low to get moving worth a **** - 60' was like 2.1 or 2.2 i think. but it still ran 10.7@140, and still felt like it spun a front tire for an 1/8th mile.

other runs 60' were 1.8 i think, and still only did 10.6/7s so its just ****** i dont know. this transfer case just wont put power down.

good news: belt stayed on, intake didnt break, injectors are max'ed way the hell out 120%+ duty cycle on one run lol. ac/chiller did awesome - could idle in staging lane with hood open after about 20 minute cool down i could start truck back up with ect around 180, turn ac on and temp wouldnt climb at all and drop IAT down into the 50s, coolant is usually about 20* colder than the iats.

after track i ran down and filled it back up with e85 (78%), ran it thru car wash, ****** up a few cars on the street.

 

[Rocket Man]

got new manifold on, went for a rip, test n tune a couple passes just to make sure everything else was back together.
stock transfercase still sucksass. not sure if im going to do another np149 or what, may leave it alone till i find a good deal on another used one.

i tried a few transbrake launches rpm down to like 3000rpm (ive launch 4500+ before) and still spins about 30' out when all the boost ramps in, really not matter where i launch at. I foot braked it up to probably 2500rpm, which it leaves on barely any boost 1-2psi. but rpm was a little too low to get moving worth a **** - 60' was like 2.1 or 2.2 i think. but it still ran 10.7@140, and still felt like it spun a front tire for an 1/8th mile.

other runs 60' were 1.8 i think, and still only did 10.6/7s so its just ****** i dont know. this transfer case just wont put power down.

good news: belt stayed on, intake didnt break, injectors are max'ed way the hell out 120%+ duty cycle on one run lol. ac/chiller did awesome - could idle in staging lane with hood open after about 20 minute cool down i could start truck back up with ect around 180, turn ac on and temp wouldnt climb at all and drop IAT down into the 50s, coolant is usually about 20* colder than the iats.

after track i ran down and filled it back up with e85 (78%), ran it thru car wash, ****** up a few cars on the street.

Fkn awesome! Playtime.

 

[smitty612]

also need to troubleshoot brake lights staying on all the time if any of yall have an idea.
swapped the pedal for hydroboost, broke the brake switch so its been replaced. when you key on you can audibly hear a relay click and the brake lights come on after a few seconds.

i think the brake switch/lights worked as they should when i first put the pedal in.

What was it? I did hydro boost on mine and they’re staying on

 

[randeez]

What was it? I did hydro boost on mine and they’re staying on

After replacing the brake switch I needed to bend the little bracket on the pedal lever that actuated it. there was a gap where the brake lights weren't.
I think it was too far at first and the brakes lights were always on, when you pushed the pedal they would go off (as they went thru the off gap) and then they would turn back on when past that point.
Haven't really messed with it since

 

[randeez]

about over this thing...every time i make some progress some more **** breaks.

over this weekend tore up a front axle, it completely covered the wheel, wheel well, driverside underside, threw some that came off the wheel down side of it. spent much of yesterday cleaning it up, pulling the axle out - which i just replaced a couple weeks ago when the (come to find out) transfer case was messed up. so i swapped the inner cup and put the old axle back in it. i had two small cv axle spaces and one thicker one, i put the thicker one on the passenger side. and this time i put both of the smaller ones on the driverside so we'll see if it helps

crank case ventilation... has a 10an (5/8") off each valve cover and still wants to blow the dipstick out. adding a oil fill cap adapter and another 10an for a total of 3. last time at track it blew the dipstick out and sprayed some oil out. dude at the track said it looked like it was blowing smoke out the tail pipe the whole way down. so not sure if it was just the oil burning off. it also spun 1st, shifted spun 2nd, shifted and ran down the track in 3rd from about 40mph on...so possible it was pushing tranny fluid out also burning off the exhaust.

i was kind of "hoping" it was the turbo maybe cooking a seal and needing repair, sucks, but is pretty cheap and easy to fix. pulled the downpipe today in hopes of finding some fresh wet oil in it but no luck. i did end up welding on the flange for the cutout though - the stub piece i left there was a little long and its dragged a few times hitting some bigger bumps so i wanted to shorter it up anyway.

i beat the piss out of it hoping to see it smoking with a couple of back to back pulls but nothing. i get a little bit out of the tailpipe every once and a while but seems hit or miss. i might pull the plugs and see if any of them look particularly oily.

ctsv i dropped off at dealership to get the 8sp stutter taken care of, busy apparently though and they havent had a chance to look at it. when i dropped it off i did a quick little walk around just to make a quick note of any dings/dents/scrapes whatever. and of course theres a scratch right on the drivers ******* door center. i have zero idea when it happened cause i know i couldnt have missed it any other time. it had been parked since saturday, tuesday the first day i drove it - dropped kid off at school and went straight to dealership, was dark out so i didnt notice if it was there when i got in it that morning. but ive been stewing over it for the past week about how bad it actually looks cause it looked pretty damn bad when i dropped it off. not even a door ding - like they dinged it and then decided to push the door another 2 inches scratching into it. is how its pictured in my head. already trying to line up a scratch repair for it

 

[Rocket Man]

Ah man I was hoping you had gotten to the point where stuff isn’t breaking on you.

 

[mikeyss]

Ah man I was hoping you had gotten to the point where stuff isn’t breaking on you.

Same here.

One thing I've learned over years, it seems anything over the 700 horsepower mark, something is always going to break.

 

[randeez]

Ah man I was hoping you had gotten to the point where stuff isn’t breaking on you.

that is not the case...

Same here.

One thing I've learned over years, it seems anything over the 700 horsepower mark, something is always going to break.

mhmm, 2step jiggles everything loose too. as i was replacing cvaxle i saw a little oil drip day 1....came out day 2 and it was a nice little leak. got donwe with axle and got under it. the oil filter was just loose lol, tightened it up like a full turn+