Question About Idler Arm

[azmike]

I had my 2000 Yukon 4wd 5.3 V8 inspected today and they told me I need a new idler arm & bracket. The suspension is original and the vehicle has 217,000 miles. I looked up the parts and they don't look that expensive but the repair shop is quoting around $800 for the job and that doesn't include the cost of an alignment. Does anyone have experience with this and can suggest a reasonable ballpark figure for this repair? Thanks.

 

[OR VietVet]

More Information for GM GENUINE 19178433

I would bet that the quote includes an idler arm that is not Genuine GM like this one and that $800 is crazy. They are one part and not parts. Easy to replace if you have any mechanical ability at all. Look at a few you tube videos about this and see. Can rent some tools at parts store if needed. Did the estimate include the inspection? If that idler arm is the only steering linkage part needed at that age and mileage, that is impressive.

 

[drakon543]

unless there is something extra they are doing 800 is pretty high.

 

[THarber]

That's a crazy price. The part can be $35 up to $100 unless they are quoting Kryptonite heavy duty parts. Wild guess but you could replace everything for about $400. If you do it yourself, might as well R/R tie rod ends too.

 

[OR VietVet]

Agree with @drakon543 and @THarber about the price, as I stated above. I don't agree with the part price of $35 to $100 unless you are just getting as cheap as you can get. The one I supplied the link too is a Genuine GM part, just like the one that lasted soooo long up to now. That is a your cost over $100 at RA and lots of shops will not allow you to supply parts but like I stated as well, it is an easy part to replace. If you do yourself and plan on keeping the rig, get the entire steering linkage set up of tie rods and pitman arm and center link, in case there is some wallowing at the taper points of the center link. You can buy all these parts at RA for less than $800, IMO. Point being, if the idler arm is bad now, the rest are close behind.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As stated above, if you normally do any wrenching, you can replace that component yourself. Then get an alignment.

 

[azmike]

Thanks guys. I'm not that handy but will get estimates from a few other shops.

 

[OR VietVet]

You will want whatever shop you choose to inspect that entire front steering and suspension before the idler arm replacement. It would be very rare for just the idler arm to be needed at that mileage. Don't say that to the shop but can share that the other shop said just idler arm and wanted too much for replacement and you can even withhold the amount from the next shop. Please post what they say is bad and if you can, be there when they inspect and ask them to show you what is bad and why.

 

[azmike]

You will want whatever shop you choose to inspect that entire front steering and suspension before the idler arm replacement. It would be very rare for just the idler arm to be needed at that mileage. Don't say that to the shop but can share that the other shop said just idler arm and wanted too much for replacement and you can even withhold the amount from the next shop. Please post what they say is bad and if you can, be there when they inspect and ask them to show you what is bad and why.

Thanks. Good points. I'm going to take it to a another shop that I've used in the past and ask them to inspect the suspension.

 

[MassHoe04]

I just got a quote for $1,005 for replacing a bad Pitman arm, idle control arm and one upper control arm with almost 3 hours labor and a wheel alignment. $800 seems high for just the Idle Control Arm replacement on yours.

I can get all parts above from RA for about $250. That is with 2 UCA replacements, not just 1.

I feel pretty good about tackling the Idle Control Arm myself, especially if I get the GM one noted above that is the entire assembly with the bracket and arm included. I wouldn't have to wrestle with getting the arm off the rusty spline.

Upper Control Arm should also be fairly straight forward. I do have a ball joint "C-press" removal tool or I could try the BFH to pop the ball joint free. The rest seems pretty easy.

If I can do the ICA and the UCA myself, I might hold off on the Pitman until warmer weather or have my mechanic fight that battle for me.

 

[DadsToy]

I just did this job myself. Check out my build thread. The idler arm bracket and the Pittman arm that does with it is 2 separate parts. You can source those from Rock Auto. I think I paid around $9-$14 for my parts each. Cheap. Takes about 1hour to do the idler arm. Uses a 21mm wrench and socket. You'll need a BAH to knock out the arm from the center link. Or you can use a ball joint removal tool. Trick is to remove the bolts from the bracket first. And pull the bracket out of the hold frame mount. Once it is free you release the tension on the joint that is connected to the center link. Making it easier to knock out the center link joint. Put the car up on ramps, remove the rock guard under the car. You will be able to access it from under the car. Easy...after reading how much you all got quoted to do this repair. I am glad I did it myself. Was easy and I save a truck load of money.

 

[MassHoe04]

One question from earlier might not have been spelled out clear enough, so I'll give another go.

When shop says "Idler Control Arm is bad"... Is it the arm that attaches to the spindle that is shot? Meaning the joint that attaches to the center link...

Is there any liklihood that the rest of the Idler Control Arm Assembly is bad too? Meaning the entire assembly that bolts to the frame + the arm that attaches to it also.

I don't know enough about exactly what part would be worn and whether I should just look at getting the entire assembly. I wouldn't want to slap a new arm on the end of the shaft, if some other part of the assembly is also worn out.

Although, I was thinking it might be simper and easier to unbolt and replace the entire assembly, if the arm was going to possibly be a PITA to remove.

Did I clarify or confuse even more?

Replace just the arm or the entire assembly?

Advice is appreciated.

 

[Alex_M]

$800 is way high. I'd be charging probably $65 for the part (a guess, maybe more maybe less, but close) and then an hour or so labor. I'd do idler arm/pittman arm together, and an alignment is not necessary if only replacing idler/pittman arm. Not a bad idea, but not necessary.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I just had both the pitman and idler arm assy. replaced. I tried to do it myself but was not able to get the joints apart. I had both replaced and I supplied the parts. The parts were the best I could find but probably made offshore, maybe they all are at this point.
I would replace the pitman at the same time. For both $800 is not that bad. I think it is a bit much for just the idler assy.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

If you can get a e.g. large vice grip on the center link and push the vice grip front and back to twist the center link you might notice some movement. IMO - that's wear you don't want. Again I recommend replace both and in the future put some grease in every few years.

 

[DadsToy]

One question from earlier might not have been spelled out clear enough, so I'll give another go.

When shop says "Idler Control Arm is bad"... Is it the arm that attaches to the spindle that is shot? Meaning the joint that attaches to the center link...

Is there any liklihood that the rest of the Idler Control Arm Assembly is bad too? Meaning the entire assembly that bolts to the frame + the arm that attaches to it also.

I don't know enough about exactly what part would be worn and whether I should just look at getting the entire assembly. I wouldn't want to slap a new arm on the end of the shaft, if some other part of the assembly is also worn out.

Although, I was thinking it might be simper and easier to unbolt and replace the entire assembly, if the arm was going to possibly be a PITA to remove.

Did I clarify or confuse even more?

Replace just the arm or the entire assembly?

Advice is appreciated.

The pitman arm is attached to the steering box. You won't be able to get it off!! I've tired on two different units and could not get it off without damaging the steering box. A big hammer, heat and proper tool I couldn't get it off. Big pain in the rear. It is a tapered fit arm. The idle arm you can get off easy. If you replace the arm you should replace the bracket it attaches to. The center link should be fine. Unless the mounting hole for the bushing is oblong wore out. If it is then you need to replace the outer tie rods, center link and the idle arm. Google search front suspensions and you'll run across images of each part in question.

 

[MassHoe04]

The pitman arm is attached to the steering box. You won't be able to get it off!! I've tired on two different units and could not get it off without damaging the steering box. A big hammer, heat and proper tool I couldn't get it off. Big pain in the rear. It is a tapered fit arm. The idle arm you can get off easy. If you replace the arm you should replace the bracket it attaches to. The center link should be fine. Unless the mounting hole for the bushing is oblong wore out. If it is then you need to replace the outer tie rods, center link and the idle arm. Google search front suspensions and you'll run across images of each part in question.

OK.

Thanks.

I know what the parts are and where. I wasn't sure if the spindle that the Idler Control arm attaches to wears inside the assembly that bolts to the frame or if it was mostly just the arm itself that wears out.

I think for $120, I'll replace the entire idler control arm assembly (sometime) rather than just the arm. That way I can just unbolt from the frame and pop it off the center link and drop the new one in.

Thanks for the consult!

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

In my experience the part that wears out is the rotational pivot that sort of looks like a ball joint. The pitman and idler arm have one each. If these "pivots" have any movement other than rotation you will get some slop in the steering. It could be that one wears faster than the other, I don't know about that. If you can confirm one is "tight" then I guess leave that one in.

 

[OR VietVet]

Soak the pitman arm with penetrant 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days, and use a pitman arm puller. I lived in a salt on roads state and did it all the time. This is all being made to be harder than it is.

 

[Doubeleive]

I had to do the wife's 05 at around 165k it was actually kind of scary to drive, it had several inches of drift either way
bought the trq kit off amazon $340, and factory idler which comes with the arm, so that was about another $100
then I found a super clean steering box at the junkyard that was clearly stamped "rebuilt" for like $50 I think
had a shop do all the labor (it's a lot) and the alignment for $1800 cash
drives like brand new now, major difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741TYW4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1