I think anybody that can change their own oil and do a brake job should be able to perform the valve body upgrade. There will be a few tools you may not have that you will need, I will post the tools that are unique. I think without looking into all the details, you will need at least 1 size E Torx socket and you will need a smaller torque wrench (maybe a 1/4" in lbs type, I have a few here on hand) and probably some Vaseline to hold check balls in place while you reassemble the valve body.
I will take some pictures and get an idea of time do perform the job. I am trying to have 4 hours set aside, not sure it will take this long, but EVERYTIME I try to do anything uninterrupted the phone starts, the wife starts, the dogs need to go for a walk, the sky is falling, something always comes up. I want to get this job knocked out ASAP. I have done a lot of transmission work over the years and much on my back under the vehicle so I have no problem tackling this job.
The biggest wildcard is GM's STUPID fluid level check procedure. I am going to work around this STUPID process somehow/someway. GM did not fill the transmission at the factory power braking to get the fluid up to 170F, so there has got to be a common sense way to sort out the fluid fill process. 170F oil and hot exhaust will burn you in no time and is dangerous. VW and most of the German manufacturer choose 100F as the baseline temperature which is easy to get to and is safe to deal with, this is a hot shower temperature.
I will first start with opening the transmission fill plug cold with the engine off. If no fluid runs out, I will figure out a way to make wire dipstick to check the level based on how the truck is on ramps. The I will bring the trans fluid up to 100F and check the level again and 100F will be my reference temperature. All I need to to is match the level under the same temperature and same circumstances.
I will probably also try to verify on a flat surface as well to help others, but I will have the truck up on ramps so I will have more room.
This crazy 176F to check the fluid level is nuts, my trans temps are usually around 145F and have only peaked at around 165F for a short period after cruising on the highway and then getting stuck in traffic at a crawl for 20-30 minutes. Once back cruising, the trans temps usually drop back close to 145F.
I will also measure what fluid I take out as well, the only wildcard is the aftermarket trans pan indicates it holds 2.5 quarts more fluid, so I need to also work with this and confirm as well.
I am hopeful I may be able to get to this next week, BUT my daughter and sons dogs will be here, so I will have 4 dogs to take care of. It is always something!!!
I may just need to start the job at 11 pm and night and stay up and get the job done, less interruptions late at night, but we shall see.
This is the type of job you just need to try and take your time with, be clean and only take apart what you need to take apart. The main issue is if you are replacing the shift valves, you MUST keep the shift solenoids in the proper order/location as there is programming associated with these shift solenoids. So marking the solenoids is a wise idea. Sharpie marker may not be wise as the fluid may cause the Sharpie marks to wipe off.
