Premium smooth ride is not smooth

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Sergey A Rusakov

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Hello,

I am Sergey and new to this forum, so please bear with me for a moment.

Used 2011 Tahoe LT bought from a dealer. Vehicle had aftermarket wheels and worn tires.
Sticker says "Premium Smooth Ride" and glove box sticker lists ZW7 option.

I typically carry 1-2 passengers, small amount of luggage. No towing.
Suspension is stock, everything is factory original. 146 kMi. There are no squeaks nor any noises from suspension.

The question to you experts I have is that the premium smooth ride is not smooth. In fact ride is firmer than my older TrailBlazer had.

Driving on smooth road surface feels rigid, every asphalt irregularity is felt, e.g. cracks or pavement dent.

Being dissatisfied with the ride quality for the money I paid to vehicle inspector and he blamed wheels.

Replaced aftermarket wheels with factory original near new aluminum rims and installed four new factory size tires P265 70R17. All four tires are equally inflated to 30 psi. Balanced well.

I noticed little if any difference when replaced all four wheels. The ride is still firm.
So the problem seems to be not in wheels/tires.

If anyone had similar issue, from your experience, what should I check in suspension please?

Thank you,
Sergey
 

swathdiver

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Hello,

I am Sergey and new to this forum, so please bear with me for a moment.

Used 2011 Tahoe LT bought from a dealer. Vehicle had aftermarket wheels and worn tires.
Sticker says "Premium Smooth Ride" and glove box sticker lists ZW7 option.

I typically carry 1-2 passengers, small amount of luggage. No towing.
Suspension is stock, everything is factory original. 146 kMi. There are no squeaks nor any noises from suspension.

The question to you experts I have is that the premium smooth ride is not smooth. In fact ride is firmer than my older TrailBlazer had.

Driving on smooth road surface feels rigid, every asphalt irregularity is felt, e.g. cracks or pavement dent.

Being dissatisfied with the ride quality for the money I paid to vehicle inspector and he blamed wheels.

Replaced aftermarket wheels with factory original near new aluminum rims and installed four new factory size tires P265 70R17. All four tires are equally inflated to 30 psi. Balanced well.

I noticed little if any difference when replaced all four wheels. The ride is still firm.
So the problem seems to be not in wheels/tires.

If anyone had similar issue, from your experience, what should I check in suspension please?

Thank you,
Sergey

Your shock absorbers and struts are ten years old now Sergey, get some new ones. Don't get the pre-assembled struts, they are nowhere near the quality of the originals.

I have the same basic suspension that is all original still with All-Terrain tires and she rides great but does get a bit bouncy when she's not carrying a load or when the fuel tank is low. These things were made to tow and haul loads and run best with a load on.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

You are already receiving some replies from the great folks on this Forum, and other folks will chime in with their thoughts.
 
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Sergey A Rusakov

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Hello Joseph,

thank you for welcoming me to the forum.
A photo of my Tahoe is attached, with suspension related measurements.
Nothing extra
suspension_measurements.jpg
to list, everything from the factory
 
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Sergey A Rusakov

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Your shock absorbers and struts are ten years old now Sergey, get some new ones. Don't get the pre-assembled struts, they are nowhere near the quality of the originals.

If you mean front suspension: I do not have access to spring compression press to replace only shock absorbers, and may consider buying a strut.
ACDelco makes strut 903040RS listed to fit as OEM to this year Tahoe with ZW7 front suspension.
Or do you mean to replace rear shock absorbers as well ?

I have the same basic suspension that is all original still with All-Terrain tires and she rides great but does get a bit bouncy when she's not carrying a load or when the fuel tank is low. These things were made to tow and haul loads and run best with a load on.
One day I had to carry an unusually large load in this Tahoe (moving stuff for an event).
Interior of Tahoe was filled with boxes. Had maybe 1/2 ton of load.
When loaded that much the ride would become soft and smooth. It did not. Gained large inertia compared to empty, yes.
Thanks
 

swathdiver

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If you mean front suspension: I do not have access to spring compression press to replace only shock absorbers, and may consider buying a strut.
ACDelco makes strut 903040RS listed to fit as OEM to this year Tahoe with ZW7 front suspension.
Or do you mean to replace rear shock absorbers as well ?


One day I had to carry an unusually large load in this Tahoe (moving stuff for an event).
Interior of Tahoe was filled with boxes. Had maybe 1/2 ton of load.
When loaded that much the ride would become soft and smooth. It did not. Gained large inertia compared to empty, yes.
Thanks

I do not have a spring compressor either but am going to buy one, they are pricey but ride quality and durability are more important than the price of the tool. You could always sell it afterwards or rent one of the cheap kind from your local auto parts store.

Yes, replace all struts and shocks, springs too as I look at your saggy rear, it should stand at least two to three inches higher in the back.
 

Joseph Garcia

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If you purchase a spring compressor, do not go with one that is intended only for cars, as you risk the unit breaking in the middle of the compression action, and injuring yourself, as these truck springs require much more pressure to collapse.

If you rent one, be sure that it is heavy duty enough to handle truck springs.
 
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Sergey A Rusakov

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Yes, replace all struts and shocks, springs too as I look at your saggy rear, it should stand at least two to three inches higher in the back.

James suggested to replace also springs.

Do I really have to rent spring compressor to disassemble my struts to replace separately shocks and springs then ?
Cant' one avoid this possibly unnecessary disassemble-reassemble work and replace front struts as entire assembly, say by installing ACDelco strut assembly 903040RS (or even a softer equivalent) ?
Is there a catch I don't see between using a strut assembly and using separately a shock and a spring ?
 

swathdiver

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James suggested to replace also springs.

Do I really have to rent spring compressor to disassemble my struts to replace separately shocks and springs then ?
Cant' one avoid this possibly unnecessary disassemble-reassemble work and replace front struts as entire assembly, say by installing ACDelco strut assembly 903040RS (or even a softer equivalent) ?
Is there a catch I don't see between using a strut assembly and using separately a shock and a spring ?

Like I said earlier, you can certainly do it but they lack in quality and you are complaining about a bad ride.
 

George B

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James suggested to replace also springs.

Do I really have to rent spring compressor to disassemble my struts to replace separately shocks and springs then ?
Cant' one avoid this possibly unnecessary disassemble-reassemble work and replace front struts as entire assembly, say by installing ACDelco strut assembly 903040RS (or even a softer equivalent) ?
Is there a catch I don't see between using a strut assembly and using separately a shock and a spring ?
I can say from experience that you want to keep your factory springs and get some top quality shocks and struts.
 

petethepug

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At 10 years and 100k+ on the clock it’s time to maintain the suspension components. The good news is that your truck will actually ride BETTER than new once it’s completed if you upgrade during the service.

It’s also time for new TPMS sensors in the rims. Don’t pay to have them installed twice after a tire install.

New tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushes and upgrading to poly bushings on the sway bars/end links. Look forward to another 100k of awesomeness after it’s done.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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Sergey A Rusakov

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At 10 years and 100k+ on the clock it’s time to maintain the suspension components. The good news is that your truck will actually ride BETTER than new once it’s completed if you upgrade during the service.

It’s also time for new TPMS sensors in the rims. Don’t pay to have them installed twice after a tire install.

New tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushes and upgrading to poly bushings on the sway bars/end links. Look forward to another 100k of awesomeness after it’s done.
You are probably right, but replacing so many parts at this time is out of my budget.
Will begin with struts only, then we will see.

And, in terms of 10 years and 100kMi+ and suspension. Why then my past TrailBlazer never had any suspension part replaced, and drove fine till its retirement at 19 years and 275kMi....
 

Charlie207

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OK. Thank you for the feedback.

I will consider ordering GM struts. Spring compressor will be needed. I checked local o`reily auto supply, then can loan this tool
Rental Tools EverTough MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor 67051 | O'R (oreillyauto.com)
Do you believe it will work for Tahoe springs ? O'reily sales rep I do not trust much.
Thanks

Once you get the entire strut assembly out of the vehicle, this is the type of spring compressor you'll want to use.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...r/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0

?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.jpg


Once it's secured in the compressor, you can attach an impact gun (1/2" IIRC) and it compress the spring quickly.

This tool worked very well on my Nissan Armada springs, which are probably very similar in size.
 
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Sergey A Rusakov

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Loaned this tool at Autozone. It probably is a versatile tool, but it took me a while to get used to it. After multiple tries I was able to compress one strut assembly to a degree when strut removal could be performed.
I failed to remove strut. The nut and the threaded rod end are so rusted that they appear as one piece. No tools helped as the nut is located inside recess area.
Apparently I am not smart enough. All the steps above likely would not be needed if I ever inspected the strut nut before proceeding.

rusted_strut_nut.jpg
 

S1W99

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I have the same issue with my 2012 LT. All new be grubby suspension kit, Acdelco front struts and Bilstein 4600 rear shocks. Still not smooth.
 

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