Premium Shocks?

[Franzsolo]

Hi all, I have a 2006 Yukon Denali with Z55 package. I bought some 2" lowering rear springs from Carid. In the instructions, it says if you have "Premium Rides shocks" in the rear, they have to be replaced. I don't know if I do. The build sheet only states Z55 autoride, and according to Carid, the autoride is ok.
Here's a picture of my current shock. The tech help at Carid was a joke. Someone in India telling me exactly what I read in the instructions... I still am unsure as to what I have. Are they considered "premium ride"? I know it's autoride...

 

[Franzsolo]

I think I may have found the answer... The ZW7 option is the premium smooth ride, which I'm not even sure was available in 2006? So, when I have some time, I'll go ahead and put the springs in.

 

[Fless]

ZW7 was available in 2006, and your RPO codes in the glovebox lid would show ZW7 and G65 if it was built with Premium Smooth Ride. You don't have that, based on your Z55 code and the wired shock absorber. No need to replace anything for that reason.

 

[swathdiver]

What Fless said! ^^^^^

 

[Franzsolo]

ZW7 was available in 2006, and your RPO codes in the glovebox lid would show ZW7 and G65 if it was built with Premium Smooth Ride. You don't have that, based on your Z55 code and the wired shock absorber. No need to replace anything for that reason.

That's awesome! Thank you! Going to install next week while I'm home on my staycation.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just a FYI: your auto level function of your autoride system will pretty much raise the rear back up where it was unless you adjust the length of the ride height sensor rods. The auto level uses the onboard compressor and your air bladder shocks to keep the rear at a preset height when you load weight on or in the rear. I bought threaded bolts and cut the thread to length. You can Google how to do this or to get more info on them. IIRC I made mine 1” shorter for my 4” drop. You will probably have to experiment by swapping out a set, lowering it off the jack and starting the engine to see where it raises it to. Don’t forget to remove one of the air lines at a shock before starting the engine ( either shock, since they’re plumbed together with a Y) so it starts out low and it will add air to bring it up.

 

[Franzsolo]

Thanks. It came with the shorter sensor rods and I installed them. The rear looks about the same, maybe a 1/2" drop. I'm a little bummed. Any ideas? Is there a way to disable the auto level function, and not have it blow codes on me?

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks. It came with the shorter sensor rods and I installed them. The rear looks about the same, maybe a 1/2" drop. I'm a little bummed. Any ideas? Is there a way to disable the auto level function, and not have it blow codes on me?

Why? Just shorten the rods more like I was saying. Mines dropped about 4” in the rear and when I hook up my trailer it keeps it at that height so there’s no scraping. Otherwise you’ll need helper bags if you tow or put people in the back.

 

[Franzsolo]

Why? Just shorten the rods more like I was saying. Mines dropped about 4” in the rear and when I hook up my trailer it keeps it at that height so there’s no scraping. Otherwise you’ll need helper bags if you tow or put people in the back.

Ok, I did what you said. it did drop a little. Thank you. I think it may be about 1 -1 1 1/2" inches lower than before. I can feel the difference when cornering. I'd like it to sit lower, but that's what I got for now. I'm at about 36 1/4" fender height in back and 35' in front. about a 1/4" lower on the passenger side. Once I wear out these tires, which will be awhile, I'm going to do a full drop and go to 22's. Perhaps it will settle a little over time?

 

[Franzsolo]

By the way, RocketMan, love your build, it's inspiring and I have learned a bit from it.