Parking lamps staying on

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
1997 2 Door Tahoe
Unidentifiable alarm on truck
I'm 3rd owner.

Bought her and am swapping out the drivetrain for a 5 speed setup (NV4500 thread on here). During the clutch pedal installation, I found and removed all wiring for the alarm that I could find. they had tapped into the lighting system via the driving/headlight/dimmer switch to the left of the steering wheel and done a rickety job I might add. I removed those wires, left the native wires intact and recovered them with rubber so they're sealed and not exposed any longer. however now when I reconnect the battery, the parking lights stay on constantly. I cannot get them to turn off for anything. If the truck is running, the daytime running lamps (low beams) do not come on any longer (whereas before they did). I'm thinking the daytime running lamp switch is shot or I dropped it or looked at it incorrectly. I've obviously screwed something up and don't know what it is/what I did. Any help would be appreciated. I hunt quite a lot and the daytime running lamps off is a bonus in my opinion. I'd rather go back and just have the old school setup where they're off unless I turn the knob. I don't like daytime lights and they piss me off when I'm trying to discretely drive into my blind. Is it as simple as removing the daytime running lamp module box thingy?

Thanks guys

Dave
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
man another nv4500 swap in progress. use the attached diagram package to repair your wiring.
 

Attachments

  • 1997 chevy tahoe lighting electrical diagram package.pdf
    473.9 KB · Views: 50
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Cant get away from you SLC. Thanks!

Dave

PS I'm assuming you were joking and realized it's the same NV4500 swap from earlier? I'm the guy with the red NV4500...ha
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Thanks for the wiring diagram SLC. Gotta relearn how to read those things. In any case, they'l come in handy no doubt.

-Dave
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Here you go SLC. How about info on where to splice the transfer case lights into the truck wiring? Thanks!

Dave
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
which bulbs? you talking like back lighting or 4wd on kinda stuff. remind me again what t-case was on there with the auto tranny and which t-case is going on there now.
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Comet,

First off my reply above was stupid (the bulbs). No crap the bulbs. I'll try to be more specific next time. However, nevermind. GM in its wisdom put the wiring and sockets in the truck under the carpet and the pile (thick heavy stuff). I found it when I was cutting holes for shift sticks. I just had to switch the bulbs over and it was done. It originally had a 4L60E and a 243. Now it has an NV4500 and a 241 manual transfer case. Ok, not technically yet but the bell's up and the tranny is under her on the jack.

I'll add pictures later for those of you interested.
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Despite the plethora of wiring diagrams, I still can't figure out the dang parking lamps (the amber ones below the headlights). The tail lights are on too. so I disconnect the battery whenever I'm not working on the truck otherwise the parking lights/tail lights are always on. I'm not even talking about the DRLs. I removed the DRL module and those are not a problem anymore. However I can't figure out why the parking lights/tail lights are on with any battery power connected. Even removed the parking lamp fuse on the driver's side panel (in the door jamb). Still freaking on! Further the door chime and the hazard flashers do not work any longer since I swapped trannys. I'm sure they're completely unrelated but the only thing I did was unwrap the alarm wires from the truck's wiring setup and tape up the bare areas of wire. all fuses are good in the engine bay and in the interior panel. I've torn the entire dash out and looked for a loose ground wire or some other hidden wires that the PO put in there and can find nothing that looks "un-original equipment." anyone have any ideas? I'm at a loss here. Thanks

Dave
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
if the parking lamps are still on even after removing there fuse then they have been mis-wired onto something else. how about removing on fuse at a time to see what triggers them off then we can locate the problem faster. start with i/p fuse block then the under-hood one if needed.
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Will do SLC. But they weren't doing this before the swap and I didn't rewire anything. Not arguing with you (I'm not THAT stupid) just thinking outloud as to how I screwed this up. Ah well, I'll take some pics and see what I can find. Thanks much

Dave
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Went through the fuses this morning before work. All of the interior fuses were fine except one. Remember I said the emergency flashers/hazard lights were not working. I found their fuse blown. Replaced it and they work fine. Otherwise all of the I/P fuses are intact and working as such. Removing them one by one did not affect the parking lamps being on at all.
I then went to the engine bay fuse box above the driver's side front wheel well. The only fuse that affects them is the large 50 amp battery fuse. They only turn off when I pull that fuse. The others have no effect. In my simple dot matrix mind that means a wire to the parking lamps is crossed (and touching) a wire with constant power so that when the battery is on they have power. I'm guessing I can chase the wires back from the lamps to the switch and somewhere I'll find a crossed wire. Any other suggestions I'm open to. No idea how I crossed them. The wires I exposed earlier (while pulling the alarm system out) are all taped up and not exposed.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
so removal of the "park lps" fuse did not disable them either? if not then the path between the 50amp **** fuse and ip block is somehow making a connection from there to the circuit between lamps and headlight switch which would indicate damaged wiring.
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
I agree. It has to be some bad connection. I'm sure somehow I screwed that up. On another note, I did find that the metal fuse in the picture below (top part of the fuse panel (30a, 14.5volts) did control all the interior lights also. I think it's faulty and the connection wiggles alot.
20151104_180505_zpsqb5ktwnn.gif


I guess push comes to shove I'll tear further into the dash and run each wire all the way to the front of the truck. Can't find any other way to isolate what I screwed up. Additionally the chime function still doesn't work...maybe they're related. I'll keep you posted as to what I find if anything. Yay for the learning process.

DNeel
 

StormPackie

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Posts
30
Reaction score
0
Location
hanford, ca
ccb917b37a74f652f3847f8eb962cba3.jpg


Idk of this was posted yet. But this is the unit for your daytime lights. I took mine out but the indicator will stay on. If the Fuze an this is in an isn't working it's a wiring issue

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
Dneel81

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
I appreciate the post above. I'm fairly certain my wiring got crossed or shorted when I was drilling the holes for the clutch bracket and or the clutch MC. I'm tearing into the dash after I do the shackle flip, zero rate, and rebuild the front end and replace all 4 shocks. Thanks again
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,689
Posts
1,989,670
Members
102,689
Latest member
Woned2004
Back
Top