Parking Brakes Need Replaced

[PNW_IT_Guy]

I bought my 2010 Yukon about a year ago and it's never had hardly any parking brakes since I've had it. The pedal has tension, so I think the cable is pulling and I'm guessing the shoes need replaced (not surprising at nearly 200k). I've been planning on replacing them but since they are under the rear rotors, I thought I should do the rear brakes at the same time. Thing is that a shop just checked the brakes and told me that the rear brake pads are fine. Is it crazy to go to all that work removing the calipers and rotors to just replace the parking brake shoes? I certainly wouldn't mind saving some money on my parts order.

 

[rdezs]

If you're on a tight budget, nothing wrong with just going in for the parking brakes.

If a shop tells you your brake pads are fine, that doesn't mean much other than they have the minimum pad material still there. Did they give you an idea what percent they're worn?

The cable might just need adjusting. (Under the left side of the vehicle, easily accessible)

Couple months ago did a complete brake job including parking brake, rotors, pads calipers on the 2014 Escalade, maybe 160,000 miles at the time. Parking brake had zero wear. Probably rarely used when you have an automatic transmission and it's in park.

 

[j91z28d1]

the parking break is adjustable. it's probably stuck if it hasn't been apart before. but unless you've left the parking brake on and drove it. the pads doesn't really wear much. unless say a axle seal is leaking and it throws fluid on it.


either way, slide the rotor off, if it's dry find and free up the adjuster and adjust a bit.

new pads are pretty cheap and I only replace them because of the axle seals. but the 135k mile ones like the same thickness as the new ones.

 

[OR VietVet]

I don't know where in the PNW you are but almost all of us that do live in the PNW, don't have to worry about rust. Park brake shoes don't really "wear out" unless the vehicle was driven with them on or they could also get axle seal leak fluid on them as well but if adjusted correctly, they should hold. I think the next step is to disassemble and see what you actually have going.

 

[rdezs]

Before you dive in, pick up the hardware kit. Makes it so much easier working with a new stuff, and the kit is not expensive. If you've done the old style drum brakes, it's very similar. Adjust it with the star adjuster till you can slide the disc/drum over the new shoe. Little dab of grease on the inside of the adjuster. If it's contaminated with gear oil, you'll be looking at pulling the axle to replace not only the axle seal but at that point might as well do the axle bearings.

 

[Fless]

Before you dive in, pick up the hardware kit. Makes it so much easier working with a new stuff, and the kit is not expensive. If you've done the old style drum brakes, it's very similar. Adjust it with the star adjuster till you can slide the disc/drum over the new shoe. Little dab of grease on the inside of the adjuster. If it's contaminated with gear oil, you'll be looking at pulling the axle to replace not only the axle seal but at that point might as well do the axle bearings.

Adjust the shoes fairly tight to the rotor hat; if it's easy to slip the hat over them they're too loose. There's an actual gauge tool for the factory adjustment but it can be done without it. After that there should be an adjustment in the cable as @rdezs said.

If you get to the point of pulling the axles, also check the backing plate condition; it's a perfect time to replace them.

 

[ScottyBoy]

To give you an idea how long parking brake shoes will last the average person, I'll share my experience with my 2001. I bought my right in 2005, so I'm assuming everything was all original. In about 2009, I replaced the rear brakes, and just adjusted the tension on the parking brake shoes. Replaced rear pads and rotors again in 2012, only because the rotors were getting too worn. I should have replaced them in 09, but I just did the pads. So even though the pads were still good, I replaced the pads and rotors and adjusted the parking brake again. Then the next brake job was in 2019. I replaced pads, rotors and then replaced the parking brake shoes at that point because they were still not holding well even after being adjusted. Now its 2025, and everything is still doing fine.

 

[PNW_IT_Guy]

Thanks everyone for the input. I must admit that I'm not much of a brakes guy (especially not drum) and wasn't aware of an adjustment to make on the shoes themselves. I thought it was just the cable. I'll have to check that.

@OR VietVet - Typically quite true about not really having rust issues here in the PNW, but I bought this used and its first life was as a rental vehicle in Canada. She does have a 'healthy' dose of surface rust over the whole undercarriage.

 

[petethepug]

Parking Brake 101:

* They really only wear out if vehicle is driven with them engaged.

* If your parking brake cables are not loose or don’t need to be adjusted, it may be the rear axle seals leaking at the backing plates.

To diagnose, remove rear wheel, unbolt rear caliper, remove set screw so disc comes off and inspect rear parking brake assembly and backing plates seal(s).

No guessing required here.

 

[Pandabird]

I suspect mine has been ran with the parking brake on since they don't do anything, trying to do some quick DIY before the yearly inspection (takes too long to import spares in time), mainly wondering if there's any room for adjusting it to work for a while if it's been worn once. Assuming the parking brake is the same on Tahoe, cable retracts fully and the lever visible is pulled all the way to its stop. Haven't pulled the wheel yet. Anyways as some other folks mentioned there might be other surprises in there (backing plate is a bit crispy) so I'd rather make one big order rather than multiple small ones. Edit; disc brakes look brand spanking new though...

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks everyone for the input. I must admit that I'm not much of a brakes guy (especially not drum) and wasn't aware of an adjustment to make on the shoes themselves. I thought it was just the cable. I'll have to check that.

Try adjusting the brakes at the actuator and cables first, before you take the rears apart. All they do is hold the truck in place and are not supposed to be used to stop a moving vehicle. They don't wear much. The distance between the shoe and rotor is supposed to be a quarter of a millimeter.

 

[Pandabird]

I suspect mine has been ran with the parking brake on since they don't do anything, trying to do some quick DIY before the yearly inspection (takes too long to import spares in time), mainly wondering if there's any room for adjusting it to work for a while if it's been worn once. Assuming the parking brake is the same on Tahoe, cable retracts fully and the lever visible is pulled all the way to its stop. Haven't pulled the wheel yet. Anyways as some other folks mentioned there might be other surprises in there (backing plate is a bit crispy) so I'd rather make one big order rather than multiple small ones. Edit; disc brakes look brand spanking new though...

A friend of mine told me it's possible to just remove the topmost bolt and try to reach a star shaped adjuster screw with a small flathead without removing the brake assembly.. Can I get confirmation of this?

 

[j91z28d1]

A friend of mine told me it's possible to just remove the topmost bolt and try to reach a star shaped adjuster screw with a small flathead without removing the brake assembly.. Can I get confirmation of this?

try youtube. there is a adjuster in there but I don't know if you can get to it with the rotor on. I had my off and adjusted it