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Parasitic draw

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by Mickey_7106, Jan 11, 2021.

  1. BG1988

    BG1988 Full Access Member

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    well he has an after market radio so you do have to run a key ACC on wire ... other wise if it was jumpered it will be "on all the time"

    a hissing noise is normal that means the amp turned on from opening the door ( that happens on other GM cars and trucks as well)
     
  2. BG1988

    BG1988 Full Access Member

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    I was thinking the 12+vDC had a jumper to the ACC on causing the draw... i.e always "on"
     
  3. RefrigerationDude

    RefrigerationDude TYF Newbie

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    Im having a similar problem with my battery needing to be jumped off every few days in a 01 Tahoe. Im about to go out and check mV's across the fuses and go from there....

    3 year old battery, and I'm going to go have my charging system checked just as soon as i find out why it suddenly started overheating this morning...FmL
     
  4. Mickey_7106

    Mickey_7106 Full Access Member

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    All my aftermarket HU are wired as if they were stock. I don't run anything extra.

    Also ive never heard the amp make any noise on any car ive been in. You must have some really great ears


     
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  5. Jeff O

    Jeff O TYF Newbie

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    I went thru this on 03 Tahoe. There are multiple things that could be the cause. There are 3 computers: the Radio, the IPC and the main body computer. The Instrument Panel (although you disconnected it.) for your year should be sent to a repair service to be checked for bad solder joints and also the meter movements replaced. The main computer in my case seemed to be the big problem. It is located on the left side of the engine mounted to the frame. The connectors are not totally protected from water infiltration and corrosion on 6 pins (a couple almost totally) was found to be the culprit. The radio & MBC are a a little deceiving when doing current checking. They may draw 2.5A when initially shutting down and take maybe 30-90 sec to go to almost zero. Residiual draw is normal and should be between 30-50 milliamps. When shutting down, remove the key from the switch, even that is sensed by the computer and 'readies' the engine for start which causes current draw. Ck for other threads on this forum about this same prob. Good Luck.
     
  6. davidavidd

    davidavidd TYF Newbie

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    My Tahoe 2007 draws 15/20mA on sleep mode (30 minutes after being turned off), I don't know if your model includes it but check: digital radio tuner (Xirius XM), Onstar module and any aftermarket radio.
     
  7. Mickey_7106

    Mickey_7106 Full Access Member

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    Thanks yall,

    I let the truck sit for about 2 days with the large plug with the blue tab disconnected on the amp. Truck had. 12.58V when i checked this morning. Started with 13.03V after 10 hours of over night charge using a noco genius 10 2 days ago. I want to think it's safe to say that the amp was the culprit for the battery draining. Before it couldn't go more than 3 days.

    While on the subject, does anyone know the best way to remove this amp? Looks like i might have to tear out the whole dash
     
  8. Fless

    Fless Full Access Member

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    Is this the amp above the passenger footwell?
     
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  9. Mickey_7106

    Mickey_7106 Full Access Member

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    Yes, behind the glove comparment


     
  10. 01Tahoebot

    01Tahoebot Member

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    Similar issue on '07 Hoe - Ended up being the negative battery cable was corroded on the inside of the jacket, couldn't see just by giving it a glance. Peeling jacket back down revealed it. And having it load tested. Once replaced - no more issues
     
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