Onebad1983's 02 NBS Tahoe Slow Build

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Onebad1983

Onebad1983

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Trying to stay at my dad's shop after hours tomorrow to finally get the headers on. My dad started telling me that there's a chance it won't change the sound at all. If that's the case then I pretty much bought these for nothing. Can anyone enlighten me on this?
 

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Trying to stay at my dad's shop after hours tomorrow to finally get the headers on. My dad started telling me that there's a chance it won't change the sound at all. If that's the case then I pretty much bought these for nothing. Can anyone enlighten me on this?
It's bound to change at least a little bit. The reason he's saying that, though, is the manifolds on these late model engines are very similar to that of shorty headers from the factory. So it'll change the tone at least a little bit but I would not go into it expecting it to sound like a race car or anything. Since you've bought them I'd go ahead and install them. Then next, look at a good sounding muffler based on what you want the Tahoe to sound like. If you want a little more tone but nothing too aggressive go with a Magnaflow 12589. If you want something that'll be deep and throaty with an aggressive sound get one of the Black Widow mufflers.
 
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Onebad1983

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It's bound to change at least a little bit. The reason he's saying that, though, is the manifolds on these late model engines are very similar to that of shorty headers from the factory. So it'll change the tone at least a little bit but I would not go into it expecting it to sound like a race car or anything. Since you've bought them I'd go ahead and install them. Then next, look at a good sounding muffler based on what you want the Tahoe to sound like. If you want a little more tone but nothing too aggressive go with a Magnaflow 12589. If you want something that'll be deep and throaty with an aggressive sound get one of the Black Widow mufflers.
I'm looking into the Venom series from black widow, as previously stated on GMFS. But I like the aggressive sound so we'll just have to see what happens. Should I go true duals or just stay with the single inlet and dual exit muffler?
 

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It's going to sound different up front. Headers are thinner material than the stock crap. It probably won't change any out back.


Trying to stay at my dad's shop after hours tomorrow to finally get the headers on. My dad started telling me that there's a chance it won't change the sound at all. If that's the case then I pretty much bought these for nothing. Can anyone enlighten me on this?
 

07Burb

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Were you able to get these installed last weekend like you thought you'd be able to, @Onebad1983 ?
 
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Sorry I've been so inactive lately everyone. Work has been killing me. But anyways not that much to update on. I did finally get the headers on and I'm definitely happy with the difference. It got the raspiness out of the tone of the exhaust and it's a lot deeper and doesn't sound like a shop fan at high RPMS and that's what I was hoping to get rid of with the headers. Of course, as everyone dreads with headers on these trucks, the manifold bolt closest to the firewall on the driver's side was broken off, and we couldn't drill it out. But my dad thinks I'm about to have to pull the motor soon to find an oil leak. It sucks, because this is my only vehicle, so I'd have to borrow another vehicle while this one was down. But this was just a little update to post something. I'll post a sound clip as soon as I get the chance
 

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Sorry I've been so inactive lately everyone. Work has been killing me. But anyways not that much to update on. I did finally get the headers on and I'm definitely happy with the difference. It got the raspiness out of the tone of the exhaust and it's a lot deeper and doesn't sound like a shop fan at high RPMS and that's what I was hoping to get rid of with the headers. Of course, as everyone dreads with headers on these trucks, the manifold bolt closest to the firewall on the driver's side was broken off, and we couldn't drill it out. But my dad thinks I'm about to have to pull the motor soon to find an oil leak. It sucks, because this is my only vehicle, so I'd have to borrow another vehicle while this one was down. But this was just a little update to post something. I'll post a sound clip as soon as I get the chance
Where's the oil leak at where he thinks the engine needs pulled to fix it?
 
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Onebad1983

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Where's the oil leak at where he thinks the engine needs pulled to fix it?
Rear main seal. Or the cover for the rear main seal. Plus it would give him easier access to give the engine a good once over. It's coming up on 200k quick and both he and I would like to make sure it's healthy
 

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Rear main seal. Or the cover for the rear main seal. Plus it would give him easier access to give the engine a good once over. It's coming up on 200k quick and both he and I would like to make sure it's healthy
I gotcha. I assumed that's what was wrong and was going to state that you don't need to pull the engine to do that job but if he wants to pull for easier access to do many other things then I can kinda see that logic. I definitely wouldn't pull it just for the rear main seal, though.
 
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Onebad1983

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I gotcha. I assumed that's what was wrong and was going to state that you don't need to pull the engine to do that job but if he wants to pull for easier access to do many other things then I can kinda see that logic. I definitely wouldn't pull it just for the rear main seal, though.
If it was rear main seal I'd just drop the trans and do it on a lift. And it's more me wanting to make sure the engine is healthy than him because if I end up keeping it I'm definitely planning on doing a cam and tune
 
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Onebad1983

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Ok so I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed my steering wheel vibrating pretty badly. It was not under braking so I know it's not something to do with lateral runout or something like that. Could my ball joints be starting to go bad?
 

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Ok so I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed my steering wheel vibrating pretty badly. It was not under braking so I know it's not something to do with lateral runout or something like that. Could my ball joints be starting to go bad?
ball joints, tire/rim out of balance, uneven tire wear, crappy roads,......
 

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Ok so I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed my steering wheel vibrating pretty badly. It was not under braking so I know it's not something to do with lateral runout or something like that. Could my ball joints be starting to go bad?
ball joints, tire/rim out of balance, uneven tire wear, crappy roads,......
Try swapping front wheels to the rear, and rears to the front. If your shaking goes away, or moves to the rear then you know it's one of your wheels. Have you hit any large pot holes lately?
 
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Onebad1983

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Try swapping front wheels to the rear, and rears to the front. If your shaking goes away, or moves to the rear then you know it's one of your wheels. Have you hit any large pot holes lately?
I did turn in to a restaurant too sharply and my wheel dropped off a shoulder and into a ditch. Could that be what happened?
 

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I did turn in to a restaurant too sharply and my wheel dropped off a shoulder and into a ditch. Could that be what happened?
Possible. Maybe a wheel weight fell off causing a shake/shimmy at speed. Did the inner or outer edges of the rim scrape against the curb? Stick your head under there and have a look see for anything unusual--like a scrape or any place a weight might've fell off.
 
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Onebad1983

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Possible. Maybe a wheel weight fell off causing a shake/shimmy at speed. Did the inner or outer edges of the rim scrape against the curb? Stick your head under there and have a look see for anything unusual--like a scrape or any place a weight might've fell off.
Alright I'll check. Thanks Tony. Any update on your Tahoe?
 

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